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madkaw

New look- flares and mirrors

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My ZG flares are on the way from Japan and my Vitalino Turbo mirrors are here waiting to be mounted.

Excited about no rubbing tires- not excited about putting the Z under the knife.

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Sorry about the first post being a teaser, just got ahead of myself.

Anyhow, here's a bunch of pics-what do you think?

I like them, though a little more 'in your face" attitude, but that's what makes them useful. I liked my California mirrors, but useless.

The longer stems put the mirror much closer to eye level. On the driver's side this is really prevelant and gives you a fantastic view. The mirror stems also push the mirror firther forward on the car which also helps with view

As far as quality, I really like the way their made. The base is solid, and the twin arms(stems) are on ball sockets that allow for a lot of movement. There's no tightening the mirror adjustment, the ball sockets adjust and stay put-they are very tight. The mirror also adjusts, so there is a wide range of adjustments.

Price; 90$ on ebay, a guy had 4 sets. Based on what I have used before, they are a steal.

Time will tell, but they seem to be made well.

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Edited by madkaw

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Hi Steve:

They look pretty nice - a few questions:

Is the mount attached by just sheet metal screws - or are they nuts/bolts?

Do they use the original mounting holes in the Driver Door? Or do you have to drill additional holes?

Let us know how much wind noise they add or don't add - windows up and windows down.

thanks,

Carl B.

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Yes , sheetmetal screws. The kit came with plastic inserts for the screws, but then you would have to enlarge the original holes.

If you look at the bracket, it is made to accommodate various spacing.

No wind noise driving today - windows up.

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I dig the mirrors. I think they fit the style of your car very well. Good to hear they perform as good as they look.

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Flares arrived from Japan today-I'm getting nervous before surgery:nervous:

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Steve, this post may have pushed me into using the Vitalino Turbo mirrors I have laying in my garage. Thanx for sharing the pictures.

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I would be nervous too. The quarters on that car look rust free and very straight. Can you get away

with rolling the fenders and putting the flares on over that without cutting the quarters?

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It will be tough to cut those rust free quarters, but it's going to happen. I only see my wheel size getting bigger, not smaller. I am well beyond rolling fenders now, and I don't want to go to coil-overs. I like my suspension and stance and riding on rubber strut tops.

I do really like the ZG look and it should compliment my paint job well.

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The mirrors look great!! I tried the MSA California outside mirrors and have been disappointed with them, especially the passenger side. About all I can do there is pretend to see out of it and have it symmetrically match the drivers side.

I got my ZG flares from Z Force Productions and have been extremely happy with them. I had to have new quarter panels welded in on both sides due to rust and mostly bad previous repairs/improvements. The PO had flares incorporated into the quarter panels. When I had the new quarters installed I didn't even think about the tire clearance. Sitting empty the tires just cleared. Once weight was added the passenger side for some reason rubbed more than drivers side. Tried rolling fenders a number of times and just couldn't get the clearance. Was very worried about taking the "knife" to her, but the guy I had do the work did an awesome job. He welded the inner tubs to the new edge of the quarters and needed almost no filler at the end.

The look is great and I have plenty of clearance, even if I decide to go up in size for tires. Just can't remember off the top of my head what size I'm running now, but I believe I have 16's on. I'm at work and since it is still winter here for sure, haven't looked too closely at her for want of driving and wrenching on her. Haven't convinced the wife to put heat in the garage just yet, but almost there. A mud room area in the garage I plan on putting in this summer I think will do the trick. I need to update pics of my car. Looks a lot different now than the pics I still have up.

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I'm running 17x 8.5 rotas with +4 offset and 245/45 / 17 tires all the way around. I'd like to run 275's or bigger in the back.

My rears rub on the inner fender-not lip- so rolling isn't going to help.

I've already ventured from the stock look, so this is just another step.

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Steve -

Not trying to hijack the thread but have you thought about putting a 4:11 in for a diff - I'm running a Nissan R180 3.90 currently and thinking of upgrading to the Subaru LSD. Was the conversion to the Subaru LSD difficult/expensive? Have you had a discussion on that conversion within the forum that I may have missed? Already thinking of next years projects!

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No problem. I have not considered 4.11 gears-if anything I might go back to 3.70's. With my BW T-5 trans the first 2 gears are low and wouldn't want any lower.

It couldn't be easier to do this swap. The STI diff I have I aquired for 350.00$-quite a steal compared to the Nissan r200 LSD. Now the axles are a bit pricey(500.00), but excellent quality and come from our fellow Zers on these sites. Didn't know if you knew that Todd at Wolfcreek is now selling them.

Installing it is the same as installing any r-180.

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Update on mirrors- so far - very good.

It is amazing to be able to see this well at all angles. Mirrors stay adjusted and haven't notices any vibration issues. I would humbly recommend these .

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Update for Chris who was looking for this thread. I am still very happy with the mirrors. You don't know how much you appreciate visibility until you were without it for a while.

By the way- the flares are a no go. I couldn't cut my car up.

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Some how that makes me happy :) I treasure nice quarter panels these days. As they get rarer and rarer every year...

Charles

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Makes me happy as well. IMHO, cutting up the quarters is better done on a car that already has rust damage in those areas.

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Hey Steve, I have had these same mirrors on for the past 16 years and have had no issues. I love them. The mirror cases are painted the same color as the car which you can see in my avatar. Can't wait to see the finished product on the flares.

Though it seems hard to see them, I will have to take another pic and post.

Edited by rcb280z

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I talked to Steve/Madkaw the other day and asked if I could add to his thread, "feel free" was the answer.

I bought my Vitaloni mirrors mostly because of this thread and I hated all the other mirrors I looked at.

I got them on ebay for $100 plus $21 shipping, honestly I wasn't expecting too much because the of the reasonable price.

I'll post the name of the seller if anyone wants it, good guy.

I am very impressed with the quality and design of these mirrors so I thought I would add some close ups and how to info.

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Save yourself the heartache and repairs and just start with a small drill and build up to the final 5/16th drill.

You may even be able to use your existing holes, there is lots of wiggle room on the base plate.

Also make sure you use the plastic insert plugs, they help reduce the vibration.

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Vibration is no more than the inside rear view mirror and there is no whistling.

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Whoa! After years? Decades? I finally see a mirror that really looks and performs great. Most mirrors offered by MSA and others are crap. Think I got mine at Checkers (O'Rielly) after I had the car repainted...they are less than adequate to lousy.

Comment: It would seem as bolts through the door with backing plate like OEM would be way stronger. I can see bumping into it (me or some other bozo) and it rips out. A couple of sheet metal screws do not hold much. I know it's a PITA to take apart the door panels and stuff and deal with the backing plate that you can only really install by feel. Comments?

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I understand your point about the backing plate, but the design of the channel works pretty well . Yes , the weakest link is the screws, but the mirror does give(move) pretty easy if you bump into it, so it absorbs contact well. If I have the inner door panel off, I will remember your point and make a backing plate for it.

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