siteunseen

Make a fuel rail

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    I've found -6 size aluminium fuel rail stock on e-bay for $10 a foot, 2 feet + shipping $35, and can get the 5/16" x 1/4" male barbs for about $2.50 then the 1/2" size for the 2 ends, couldn't be more than $4 each. Can borrow taps and bits from Pop. $70 dollars or round about and Pallnet guy on Hybridz wants $155 for a great looking fuel rail I think I could make without the fancy lines machined into it. Anybody ever done it? Is it harder than I think? I know I'd have to use that clear sealer instead of teflon tape.

    Edited by siteunseen
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    Pallnet is first class and saves the headache and risk of errors when learning on your first rail. Plan to drill and cut two.

    If you want to improve on the design, source extruded aluminum with two internal passages for send and return and integrate an fpr in one end.

    You can also use the stock rail, cut it and bubble flare the ends or braze barbs on the ends: It will look like this:

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

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    That's the same company I'm looking at on e-bay. They have "scratch & dent" for $5 a foot also. I think I'll listen to Blue's advice and buy the cheaper for a study guide and the good stuff for my finished fuel rail. Thanks for the heads up.

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    Do it! I think with a drill press and some drill bits and thread taps it would be easy. Looks like 1/2" on the ends and 1/4" threads for the injectors and cold start. 5/16'' barbs. Thread 2 holes on the bottom for the mounts. I am thinking of mounting my Fuel Pressure Regulator somewhere around the heater hose in & out on the firewall and run the return line from the FPR straight down to the metal line back to the gas tank by the vacuum bottle. Shirley we can do it.

    Edited by siteunseen

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    Here's the fuel rail that looks better. http://www.azspeed-marine.com/furaex.html it's finned or milled. Whatever, but also read "Milling fins into any surface will increase the available surface area for heat to dissipate from. Increased air flow across the fins would keep the rail cooler."

    Edited by siteunseen

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    Here's the fuel rail that looks better. http://www.azspeed-marine.com/furaex.html it's finned or milled. Whatever, but also read "Milling fins into any surface will increase the available surface area for heat to dissipate from. Increased air flow across the fins would keep the rail cooler."

    The fins are great for transferring heat from hot to cold. In the engine bay, hot is the engine and cold is the fuel rail. The fins will result in hotter fuel not colder.

    Just something to think about.

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    Zed Head you're a genius! Fins work on hot air cooled engines. Didn't see it that way, thanks. The fuel rail would already be cold not hot, right? I'll be using heat shields too, bought a header with ceramic thermo coat, so it shouldn't get hot. Oh the "Shirley" thing's from Leslie Neilson in the movie Airplane. Corny, I know.

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    Could or is fuel injection used in aviation? Would that allow more altitude without the freezing problems? If I'm looking at the right picture it looks cool as hell but a little over my mechanical and financial abilities. Thanks for the information though. I've read too much on building fuel rails and am over thinking the project. Alot of dicussion about vapor lock from hot fuel so the milled fins came into my plan. Now I realize they're for looks on a car like mine. I'm going to get the smooth "D" rail from Ross Racing and without polishing it, spray with high heat clear coat. It'll stand out a little over my satin black (bar b-q paint) intake.

    Edited by siteunseen

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    Could or is fuel injection used in aviation? Would that allow more altitude without the freezing problems? If I'm looking at the right picture it looks cool as hell but a little over my mechanical and financial abilities. Thanks for the information though. I've read too much on building fuel rails and am over thinking the project. Alot of dicussion about vapor lock from hot fuel so the milled fins came into my plan. Now I realize they're for looks on a car like mine. I'm going to get the smooth "D" rail from Ross Racing and without polishing it, spray with high heat clear coat. It'll stand out a little over my satin black (bar b-q paint) intake.

    If all things are correct,a FI car can not "vapor-lock".

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    I haven't gotten that far yet, sorry. Rebuilding the motor and replacing dry rotted bushings presently. I was thinking I could lay 2ft piece of similar size wood and transfer the measurments.

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    I have a blank fuel rail stock but need to find the layout dimensions for drilling. Anyone have them by chance?

    I have an after-market round aluminum fuel rail and these are the dimensions:

    1-9/16" from the front end to the #1 fitting,

    *spacing is center-line*

    2-3/8" between #1 and #2,

    3-3/4" between #2 and #3,

    5-3/8" between #3 and #4,

    3-3/4" between #4 and #5,

    2-3/8" between #5 and #6,

    1-9/16 to the end at the firewall.

    The cold start valve fitting is between #2 and #3, opposite the injector fittings at approx. 60 deg, and there is a fitting for a Summit Racing lquid-filled fuel pressure gauge near the front throttle rod bearing tower (near the dash pot) mounted slightly upward, easily read while standing at the driver-side fender.

    Edited by Willoughby Z
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    Kris,

    Thanks for the info on that fuel rail. About to tap and drill. Would you have any pictures to look at?

    John

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