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What is the official name of this plate and where can I buy one


Moto

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I'm with him. Straighten the thing. It's only metal. You should not even need to heat it. Put it on a flat surface and give it a few good whacks with a big hammer, or put it in a vice and hit it. You can't hurt it.:ermm:

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What am I missing here? It's warped but how? And why can't you flatten it back out, looks like a flat piece of steel to me. Hit it with a big hammer! After all its already warped and needs to be replaced. Heat it up red hot and flatten.

Well it was warped when I bought the car, I have already heated it, and hit it with a hammer on an anvil. It caused the center hole to elongate, as well as distorting the adjustment holes. The dizzy does sit squarely on the plate.

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^^^^^

What JWTaylor said. Lay it out on a 2x4, and whack it. Maybe flatten it in a vice.

Or if you have problems with the layout of the holes, use a rat-tail file on it. It's not as though this is a precision bearing.

Edited by FastWoman
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I'm not sure what people are assuming, but I see missing information. Is the distributor in question a 280Z distributor or 280ZX distributor. It's a common swap. I can't remember the differences between the two plates off the top of my head. I did find the plate for a 280ZX on Ebay a few months back. (Sorry, it's not an extra.) If you aren't sure of the type distributor you have, post pictures of that, too.

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If the plate he pictured is from the distributor in question, and I assume it is, it's a 240Z. (That and he did say 'points style');) The ones for a 260Z/280Z are somewhat 'V' shaped.

I'm glad you're more awake in the morning than I am. LOL

Moto, are you in a hurry for one? I will have a spare after I swap the distributor on my 73 for a 280ZX distributor.

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As I said I just bought the car a few months back and have been working the bugs out of it. S.A.E bolts in metric holes, missing bolts all together, the car has been a list of problems that I have been correcting one at a time. I have a really bad ignition problem, where the car falls flat on its face under load at the high end of the rpm range. It stumbles really bad at about 4000 rpm. I have new NGK plugs gapped at .045, new dizzy, new wires, new cap, and new Pertronics Electonic ignition. Yesterday I purchased a rebuild dizzy and when I went to install it was when I realised the plate was bent out of shape. Even when I straigtened it out there is a gap large enough to not let the dizzy mount squarely on the mount. The car runs well enough as long as you don't hit 4000 rpm. I'm not saying the plate and the high rpm stumbling are related but I'm running out of options. Which leads me to ask you guys a question, I am running the stock 40amp alternator, would this cause the stumbling at higher rpms? Keep in mind I do not have any radio in my car. However I am running the 40,000 volt coil that accompanies the Pertronics electonic ignition. Is it possable that the 40amp alternator can't keep up with supplying enough juice to the coil at high rpms?

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One of the bugs might be the 'ballast resistor'. I know some swaps need one, others do not. What is your set up? Did the PO leave it in or remove it?

Bonzi Lon[/tQUOTE]

There was no ballast resistor when I purchased the car. Im running a Pertronics ignition, with their 40,000 volt coil, a stock point style dizzy, the cap rotor and wires are all new. I know the intructions on the Pertronix instructions said to use the balast resistor if it has one. Maybe I'll run to the junk yard and pull on off.

Thanks

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