No spark out of coil

[JohnnyO]

I have searched and found a few threads that helped me test my problem but I have not been able to resolve it and am looking for help now.

I am trying to get my car started for the first time in 18 months. I installed the dash and connected "most" of the wiring. There are a few things that I did not connect because they appear to have been molested by the PO or do not have a matching connector, (i.e., radio wiring, fog lamp, A/C, etc.). I do get door lights, dash lights, head lights, ammeter, etc so I think I have most of the important wiring hooked up.

I am not getting spark out of the coil. Things I have done:

Tested power to + side of coil - yes

Tested power to - side of coil - yes

Tested power to to both sides of ballast resistor - yes but both sides were equally bright

Installed new coil - same results

Have new wires installed

Engine cranks good and hard

Brand new battery

I read somewhere about a wire to the tach so I checked to make sure there was a BW wire to a connector on the tach and there was. This wire goes to the + side of the coil so I guess it is connected or I wouldn't have power there.

If I put my test light into the coil to distributor connector should I get an intermittent light on the test light or should it be lit at all times or not at all?

Any suggestions?

John

[JohnnyO]

I just read on another site about the coil being grounded. They were talking about a ZX but it made me think. They said to have the coil grounded to the mounting bracket.

Does this apply to S30's?

[alhbln]

You want to make sure that you also have power when the starter is turned, else your engine won't start. Pull the green/white wire from the resistor and measure the voltage or use a test light between green/white and ground, while turning the starter.

If this test works out ok, then your problem is most probably the black wire to the distributor contacts or the contacts itself. As a simple test, remove the black and black/white wire from the coil and connect them to a +12V light bulb or test light. The lamp should flicker while you turn the starter.

The coil must be grounded via the mounting bracket, as the spark energy is delivered via the HV cable and ground to close the circuit.

[JohnnyO]

Thanks for the reply. I will test tonight.

John

[JohnnyO]

You want to make sure that you also have power when the starter is turned, else your engine won't start. Pull the green/white wire from the resistor and measure the voltage or use a test light between green/white and ground, while turning the starter.

This tests good.

If this test works out ok, then your problem is most probably the black wire to the distributor contacts or the contacts itself. As a simple test, remove the black and black/white wire from the coil and connect them to a +12V light bulb or test light. The lamp should flicker while you turn the starter.

The lamp did not flicker or light up at all. So I ran a new wire from the contacts straight to the coil and tested for spark. No luck.:disappoin

At this point I tested the new wire like you mentioned above and it did not light up. I should mention that I did have continuity with the old black wire but it was frayed so I put in a new temporary one until I can rewire the harness.

The coil must be grounded via the mounting bracket, as the spark energy is delivered via the HV cable and ground to close the circuit.

It is grounded. I verified this by using the bracket for a ground while testing the other connections.

At this point I am going to remove and clean the contacts and put in brand new points and condenser.

Are there any other dependencies that I might be missing? If I am getting power to the coil is it safe to assume that I have "enough" of the wiring hooked up to start the car?

Thanks,

John

[d240zx2]

Have you pre-set your distributor timing for a starting point?

[alhbln]

The lamp did not flicker or light up at all. So I ran a new wire from the contacts straight to the coil and tested for spark. No luck.:disappoin

At this point I tested the new wire like you mentioned above and it did not light up. I should mention that I did have continuity with the old black wire but it was frayed so I put in a new temporary one until I can rewire the harness.

This would point to the contacts not doing their job. You may want to remove the distributor cap and give them a visual inspection to check if they are correctly in place and clean, check also the wire going to the outside screw terminal. If you need to clean the contacts/points, use brake cleaner or gasoline and a swab, but don't use sandpaper or anything abrasive.

Now connect the test light to the distributor wire and +12V again. If the contacts are currently closed, open them and close them again, does the light now stay on/blink? If the contacts are currently opened, bridge them by (gently) introducing a screwdriver blade inbetween the points, the light should go on then.

At this point I am going to remove and clean the contacts and put in brand new points and condenser.

Good approach. You might ignore the condenser for now until the light tests indicate that the contacts are ok.

Are there any other dependencies that I might be missing? If I am getting power to the coil is it safe to assume that I have "enough" of the wiring hooked up to start the car?

If you get +12V to coil (+) both on starting and ignition on, your contacts switch coil (-) to ground and the capacitor and coil are good, then you should get a spark.

You might also want to check you distributor cap and rotor as well as the spark wires and plugs, but that can wait until you get a spark from the coil.

good luck,

Adrian

[JohnnyO]

Have you pre-set your distributor timing for a starting point?

Frank,

Just trying to get spark at this point. Pre-setting isn't required to get spark, correct?

John

[JohnnyO]

OK, So I solved the problem. There was no continuity from the power source to the points themselves. I removed the wire inside the dizzy and noticed that it was kind of floppy near one connector.

I replaced it and immediately got spark. Thanks for all your help Adrian.

I guess the best thing that came out of this is that I got a really good refresher on how non-electronic ignitions work. I haven't had a car with points since 1994.

John

[mlc240z]

John,

Congrats on getting it solved.

Now the first thing to do, since you know it runs, is moving over to some type of electronic ignitionLOL

My experience with points ended in 1983. One of the main reasons was the PIA of having to constantly maintain the points.

I use the Pertronix setup and couldn't be happier. Other options (280Z distributor, Mallory etc.) abound.

I still keep the whole points setup (with feeler gauge) in the car in case of an issue with the Pertronix. I can swap out the module and replace stock fairly quickly if stuck on the road.

But she starts easier, idles great, and seems to run smoother with the more modern ignition components.

[d240zx2]

Dittos on the Pertronix. Plug and play. No issues at all.

[JohnnyO]

Thanks for the advice guys but I am going to keep it stock with the stock ignition. Only plan on driving it a thousand miles or so per year so I dont think it will be an issue. Plus spare points, rotor and condensor take up less space than spare distributor in the toolbox.

It did have an electronic ignition in it when I bought it. I just switched back.....

John