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grantf

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thanks again for the info, Before I started body work I picked up ppg's epoxie primer to spot prime the bare metal. As I have now started welding in replacement sheet metal and used ppg's epoxie primer can I switch to nason for final priming color and clear? I can not really justify the cost of the more expensive paint as I am on a budget and my project car (280z) is not a full on restoration but more of a refresh.

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It is best to stick with a single paint "system" but the ppg epoxy is about as good as it gets for epoxy primer. You should be fine using another primer/sealer on top of it.

In my rookie opinnion the bare metal treatment you apply is probably the most important step.

Good luck and post some progress pictures.

John

Edit: be sure to wear a respirator and mix it exactly as the can says. That DP is some strong stuff.

Edited by JohnnyO
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Evercoat makes a really nice epoxy primer surfacer for about $100 per gallon with catalyst.

Any epoxy primer will be very chemically forgiving. You should be getting 100% mechanical adhesion with another undercoat like sealer or basecoat when it comes to an epoxy primer with zero chemical adhesion. Epoxy primer locks up solid. I've screwed up basecoat and sealer before on some bicycle parts and even a few guitar bodies and took them back down to the epoxy primer with paper towels and laquer thinner. It pulled the basecoat out of the 600 grit sanding scratches without touching the stuff.

You should be fine with the PPG epoxy primer under Nason sealer, base and clear as long as it is sanded and cleaned fully. Nason's sealer doesn't mix with a reducer or catalyst. I think it's about $40-50 per gallon.

Edited by DaveBonds
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