Replacing clutch on '77 280z

[kjphilippona]

Hi all, i have to replace the clutch on my '77 280z, along with any thing that falls apart when i get it out. Is this something that i can accomplish by my self in the back yard on ramps or jack stands ? I checked with a local shop that does work on all my other vehicles and they wanted $700 out the door and i am not ready to dump that much money into her at this time :disappoin

[jellobob777]

Its probably the easiest clutch job you will ever do .Just be sure you have good safe jack stands .I think a 14 mm socket for the bellhousing bolts and a 12 mm for the driveshaft bolts are about all you need .Good Luck !! Last time i checked a clutch kit with throw out bearing was about $125.

[oldhemi]

I have never done the Z, but I have read on Hybridz or zcom a couple of different posts where the guys actually let the tranny drop on their chest and moved it out and then back in - I dont recommend that! My point is that its pretty light and you might want a small jack (with the obligatory spare piece of wood) under it. You dont want to just wiggle it out and let it drop 2 feet to the ground - you could screw up the spline or ruin a bushing. Some kits come with the clutch alignment tool. They are also cheap on fleabay or you could use a large socket and eyeball method.

FSM or Haynes will be helpful.

There will be tranny fluid that will leak out the rear. How much depends on the angle that you have the tranny at after you remove the tranny mount. Be prepared for that.

In the past, I have purposely chosen a dirt area of the yard to contain some fluids loss and provide a soft landing for the tranny. It just depends on the tranny and my previous experience with the tranny type and the amount or quality of helpers.

Be thankful that the car is not an MG or Jaguar.l

Your exhaust *MIGHT* get in the way a bit.

"While you are at it", check your driveshaft ujoints, tranny fluid level and mount, maybe even lube your ebrake cable. You might even consider replacing the clutch slave cylinder and line - at least scope out the work needed to replace it at a later date. If you do replace it - be prepared for the bleeding exercise. I dont recommend doing this unless you are prepared for some potential extra downtime unless you can see obvious leaking.

Its OK to cry a little if you discover some rust.

I agree with JelloBob that it should not be too hard and I do not want make it out like that. I just want to point out a few things based on my experience that can help you be better prepared for.

IMHO, $700 sounds like a bit much. If I could charge that much, I would be happy to do 1-2 a week and then pay someone else for bodywork on my POS's!

Edited February 26, 2010 by oldhemi
spelchek

[jellobob777]

I didnt want to get to technical in my first post but oldhemi brought up a few good points Drain the trans fluid first to avoid a bath in possibly the worst smelling stuff known to man ! . The drain plug at the base of the transmission is for this a 1/2 inch drive ratchet drive fits in this nicely its a magnetic drain plug so it will give you an indication of the condition of the transmission by the amount of metal stuck to it . Some shavings is to be expected BUT ball bearings or pieces of bearing cages are an indication of bigger problems .Then remove the driveshaft and wrap the tailshaft with a rag and secure with rubber bands . Having completed a clutch job on a 78 Black Pearl car in the past 6 months on my back with jack stands this job is fresh in my mind also the dozens i have done in the past i can say i use the rest the trans on my chest method (always have ) but for a novice(and to avoid being sued ) i suggest the jack method an extra set of hands helps here also gloves and cardboard to cushion the fall if the trans drops suddenly . The exhaust has never been a clearance problem on cars with stock exhaust so dont touch that .Everything oldhemi said holds true when under the car check everything including brake lines and brake hoses at 30 + years everything should be suspect . One thing you might want to get are a set of shifter bushings they are like $3.00 and will make a world of difference in the way the car shifts(if yours have crumbled) they just pop into the sides of the base of the shifter no tools or skill needed . My last tip is to use good quality gear lube i swear by Lucas gear lube and their oil additive added to the gear oil at 33%(3-1)(its a climbing lube and is petroleum based so it will not start seeping out of all the seals like the synthetics do on these older cars that have always used petroleum based products .Good luck and be safe !!

[ZCurves]

Find yourself a good friend to lend a hand while removing and then again when aligning the tranny during the re-install. Make sure to inspect your Rear Main Seal. (This is located behind the Flywheel) If it is leaking, now is the time to change it.

Make sure that you also change the Pilot Bearing and Shifter Bushings. Go with Bronze Shifter Bushings. Over the years I must have replaced the cheap OEM Shifter Bushings 3 or 4 times.

When you get the tranny out, you should drain the gear oil and change the rear seal so when you re-insert the driveshaft it does not develop a slow leak. During my restore, I flushed my 5 speed with ATF and allowed it to drain for a while prior to re-installing. Don't bother filling it with gear oil until it is back in the car. Have fun!!

[IdahoKidd]

I can do one in about an hour and 10 minutes round trip. I do have a rotary lift though. Longest amount of time will be taking the drivline off the rear diff. Very slow. I use a short alignment dowel through the ujoint and a boxed end wrench and rotate the driveline instead of the wrench. I'd recommend having the flywheel surfaced which is going to take more time now but not nearly as much as doing it all again later. I found it easier to leave the shift lever in place and remove the shift knob but doing so requires the car being higher off the ground.