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My 260Z build (Brake upgrades and Mods)


Zs-ondabrain

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As you probably read on my exhaust thread, I'm going bullistic on this rebuild. The 260Z is a 2/74' or Early 260Z. I plan on doing a thread for each of the highly involved mods, upgrades, improvements or projects inside the build.

So this one is on my brake upgrades. I always hate looking deep inside 20 threads with 20 plus pages to find info on a particular upgrade that I'm interested in. So this one will have nothing but my brake upgrades, parts, prices, pictures and info. So here we go.....

On the FRONT Brakes. I chose to go with the 1985 Toyota 4X4 Non-Vented rotor, 4 Piston Calipers, The part number on the calipers is S12-8. They are a direct bolt on using the stock S30 Front rotors. They will require you to bend the hard line from your stock caliper, after you instal it onto the new caliper, to align it with the stock brake line flange. As the 2 calipers have different brake line hole arrangements.

These are the brake calipers I ended up using... $75 each at Schucks auto parts. They were pre-loaded with bendix? brake pads.

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This is a stock replacement rotor for the 260Z, mounted on the cleaned and POR15'd (rust encapsilator) with new wheel bearings, races and hi-temp rotor bearing grease. The rotor was painted with Hot-Rod Red Caliper paint w/ ceramic in the mix ($7 per can). The rotors were about $25 each at Schucks Auto parts.

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And on the strut assembly...... with the hard-line bent to the hose bracket.

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The Rear drums were eliminated for the 79' to 81' 280ZX Rear disc brake conversion. I bought the adaptor brackets from Joe D on HybridZ.org

for about $120 I think. The calipers were a used set taken from the local pull a part off a 79' 280ZX. They were $6.50 each and the red paint was $7 for the can of caliper paint. (I media blasted with Aluminum Oxide)

The bracket......

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The caliper...... 2nd picture shows how I moved the upper brake line and uses a top mount brake bracket on the upper and lower lines to relocate the angle in prep for the new Stainless Steel brake lines from MSA. Now the upper line and bracket is out of the line of fire of the caliper bracket when the strut compresses. The old brake line will be replaced with the SS brake line soon.

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Continued below............

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Continued from above...

I took the original E-brake bracket off the strut assembly, cut off the ZX ebrake bracket (not fun) and welded the S30 bracket onto the ZX caliper bracket at an angle that would allow for easy cable instal and no harsh angles as to bind the cable. I also crossed the Ebrake cable over itself above the diff. (Left ebrake to the right side and vice versa) to take up the slack of moving the cable forward.

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The rotors will be on after the 9th of Nov. (damn shipping) and the SS brake lines will be in by thursday (damn fed-ex) The brake shoes in the rear are $12 from Schucks

The Master Cylinder is an 80' 280ZX 15/16" MC fitted to my 260Z Vacuum Booster. New gaskets and glue on the firewall as well. The nuts were swapped for Stainless Steel nuts and lock-washers. The brake lines that go to the MC were merely cleaned and bent a little to allow for the front and rear swap of the ZX MC (Rear brakes in the front chamber and front brakes in the rear chamber) from the 260Z's opposite set-up. Everything else was left alone for now. I've read everywhere about using a BIAS adjuster and NOT using one. I'll decide on it later.

You'll also notice (to the trained eye) that I'm using the 260Z resevoirs. Reason for this is 1) they fit great 2) the MC was only $37 without the resevoirs and $132 With ZX resevoirs and wired caps. Easy choice.

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I cannot tell you the pros or cons as of yet but will report back when the car is on the road in the spring. I promise.

Hope this helps clarify a few things and answer more questions than it generates.

Dave

Edited by Zs-ondabrain
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You are probably going to want the MC from a 1979 280zx. You'll need the extra capacity.

Also, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735&page=17 (you posted there as well) is a great thread regarding brake upgrades.

The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.

Dave

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The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.

I tried to sell my factory master and nobody bought it. It's been sitting for long enough that it probably isn't any good anymore, but you're welcome to it if you want it Dave. I did snip the wires to the lids, but it's otherwise OK. I'll have to dig it out of a box in the shop if you are interested.

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I tried to sell my factory master and nobody bought it. It's been sitting for long enough that it probably isn't any good anymore, but you're welcome to it if you want it Dave. I did snip the wires to the lids, but it's otherwise OK. I'll have to dig it out of a box in the shop if you are interested.

Already got the brand New one in the 260Z. Fully polished, shiny and installed. But thanks.

And on a more personal note.... Is the wrie-up up to par? Does it meet the general JM standards? :)

Dave

Edited by Zs-ondabrain
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The 79' and 80' 15/16" MC 's are identical. same exact MC. I checked with 5 different auto parts stores, online and at HybridZ. But thanks. If you read the post again, you'll see that the resevoirs are from a 260Z but the MC is a ZX 15/16" MC. Saved over $100 by NOT ordering it with the 280ZX resevoirs and wired lids.

Dave

Yep, I misread your post. I ordered my 1979 280zx master cylinder from Rock Auto for around $130 if I remember correctly.

It's good to know that the 1980 unit is the same as the 1979. I know that the later model years switched the mounting alignnment.

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the paint on all those parts look great, I am in the process of doing the same thing; however I am just using black podwer coating for all the painted surfaces. I cannot wait to try them after I am done. I just finished the rebuild on the back brakes of my 260, but decided to keep the drums for now:beer:

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the paint on all those parts look great, I am in the process of doing the same thing; however I am just using black podwer coating for all the painted surfaces. I cannot wait to try them after I am done. I just finished the rebuild on the back brakes of my 260, but decided to keep the drums for now:beer:

Hey, want some parts? they're free.... I sure as heck don't need 'em anymore.

Seriously, anyone who wants my rear drum brake parts is welcome to them. Drums (with one or 2 small fins chipped or knocked off) but they still work fine. 2 brake cylinders, springs, cups, retainers, etc.

The fronts were used for a core charge on the toyota brakes.

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Hey, want some parts? they're free.... I sure as heck don't need 'em anymore.

Seriously, anyone who wants my rear drum brake parts is welcome to them. Drums (with one or 2 small fins chipped or knocked off) but they still work fine. 2 brake cylinders, springs, cups, retainers, etc.

The fronts were used for a core charge on the toyota brakes.

Wow, I had no idea you could use a different caliper as a core for the toy calipers :stupid:

Great writeup so far, I'm following this one as well :beer:

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You can, if they don't look in the bag, that's in the box. hahaha. It also helps if you know the guys behind the counter (I'm a regular there, so it helps)

Nice, the guys I got my Optima from hooked me up too like that. We never did paperwork on it so we put it on the reject shelf... wouldn't hold a charge for some reason :paranoid:

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