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JohnnyO

Series 1 Engine Paint Plan - Details Please

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I used Duplicolor DE 1631 Chrysler Blue. Its the closest color I could find in a pre-mixed rattle can.

OK. I was beginning to worry that I got the wrong color from Tower. It does look closer than Old Ford Blue.

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Thanks Mike and Jonny'O, I'll repaint the oil pan , and relook at timing cover and oil pump and compare every thingelse with the previous posts on original engine colors. What a large number of differences. Thanks for all the help. I'll be asking for more as the project continues to completion. This is the first 240Z restoration for the guy doing the job, see his site at RodShopOfMemphis.com

Wally

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So here are the details as I have learned over the last few weeks. Pictures of what I have done will be added soon.

Block: Datsun "Dusty" Blue

Oil Pan: Black; Satin or Semi-Gloss (not positive yet)

Crank Pulley: Blue

Smog Pump Pulley: Blue

Smog Pump Casing: Natural

Smog Pump Rear Plate: Black

Timing Cover: Natural

Water Pump: Natural

Alternator Casing: Natural

Alternator Fan: Cad Plated

Alternator Pulley: Black

Cam Cover: Natural

Head: Natural

Misc. Water Pipes: Cad Plated

Water Inlet/Outlet: Natural

Oil Pump: Natural

Distributor: Natural

Thermostat Housing: Natural

Air Box: Orange

Fuel Rail: Cad Plated

Carb Linkage: Cad Plated

Motor Mounting Brackets: Black

End Plate/Bell Housing Cover Plate: Silver Zinc Plated

Intake Manifold: Natural

Exhaust Manifold: Natural

Alternator/Smog Pump Adjusting Arms: Blue

Cooling Fan: Off-White or Antique White

Cooling Fan Clutch: Natural

Cooling Fan Pulley: Cad Plated

If you see any thing that needs correcting or if I missed a part please let me know.

When I say natural I am essentially talking about a good glass beading job. You can add a coat of flat aluminum as suggested above on all but the head I would imagine.

Still don't know the exact color for the Orange airbox. I tried VHT Orange header paint and I just don't like how it covers. I have used 3 cans and it still needs more. Plus you have to clear coat it after baking.... I may contact Tower Paint to see if they have it.

Well, I hope this helps anybody that stumbles upon it.

Edited by JohnnyO
Added parts that were missing; corrected items. 2/11/09

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Les at Classicdatsun.com has the correct orange air box paint. I took a quick glance at your list and it all seems correct to me.

-Mike

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John,

The oil pan, to be totally correct I believe, should be a semi gloss to gloss black. The alternator fan is gold cad, as you mentioned, but the alternator pulley

should be semi-gloss black and the securing nut and washer in the center should be gold cad. This can be seen in the early maintenance manuals that I have. Opinion about the pulley color has been mixed in difference discussions here, but this is my conclusion, FWIW.

Dan

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The bell housing cover plate, or as I call it 'end plate", is steel and is plated. I think silver zink however I see them in light gold cad. I agree with Dan in that 'satin black' could be 'semi-gloss'. The old paint I look at on my parts has some sheen to it. That could be the age as well as the scrubbing to get the part clean. I went with semi-gloss. My alternator pulleys are black with the light gold cad fan. The shop manual shows it that way even though it is a B&W photo. The pulley is solid black in the exploded diagram also. FWIW

Original cad plating, as we call it gold cad, isn't very gold and isn't a consistant color. I have seen restored stuff that is jewlery-store gold in color and that's not completely correct. Have a look at the pulley bolt picture I posted. It almost looks silver.

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Someone maybe it was Chris said that we sell Tower Paint but I do not we make and sell our own Mix on all our paints custom made for us by Sherwin Williams and where needed the correct additives added for heat or flex or flattening the color to get them right. May cost a little more but the quality of real automotive paint sure beats the cheap bomb cans in most cases. never had any complaints on our engine paint nor air cleaner paints. Take care!

Les

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Someone maybe it was Chris said that we sell Tower Paint but I do not we make and sell our own Mix on all our paints custom made for us by Sherwin Williams and where needed the correct additives added for heat or flex or flattening the color to get them right. May cost a little more but the quality of real automotive paint sure beats the cheap bomb cans in most cases. never had any complaints on our engine paint nor air cleaner paints. Take care!

Les

Thanks for letting us know. I don't think anyone here doubts the quality of ANY of your products. You and your company come highly regarded.

John

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The bell housing cover plate, or as I call it 'end plate", is steel and is plated. I think silver zink however I see them in light gold cad.

Yes, you are correct. Even the "NOS" ones you see on ebay are a silver zinc. Mine needs replacing and has overspray on it so it looks like stamped aluminum to me. Corrected above.

I agree with Dan in that 'satin black' could be 'semi-gloss'. The old paint I look at on my parts has some sheen to it. That could be the age as well as the scrubbing to get the part clean. I went with semi-gloss.

Some paint people have told me that, depending on the brand, they are virtually identical. I agree with you the semi-gloss is a little shinier. Perhaps someone could chime in if they have something old that's in virtually new shape to compare it to.

My alternator pulleys are black with the light gold cad fan. The shop manual shows it that way even though it is a B&W photo. The pulley is solid black in the exploded diagram also. FWIW

I have a replacement alternator right now (not a grapefruit) and it is obviously not correct. Changes have been made above.

Original cad plating, as we call it gold cad, isn't very gold and isn't a consistant color. I have seen restored stuff that is jewlery-store gold in color and that's not completely correct. Have a look at the pulley bolt picture I posted. It almost looks silver.

I do not care for the look of "jewelry store gold". I actually prefer the clean look of a freshly glass bead blasted bolt but we all know that is not correct.

Thanks for the input.

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On 2009-01-04 at 2:00 AM, AZ-240z said:

Thanks, Mike. That is my point of confusion. I have two alternators with the following engraved in the housing.

# 1. LT140-53 104 (Not LT145-35 as Kats references)

23100 A4800

# 2. LT145-35B105

23100-E5200

But my FSM engine book on page EE-20 says the Hitachi LT145-35 is for an

L24 engine with an output of 12V-45A, and the Hitchi LT 140-53 is for an L20A engine with an output of 12V-40A.

Both of these grapefruit alternators appear to be identical in appearance, otherwise. Our parts CD shows the original alternator is 23100 A4800 with an output of 12V-40A.

When the weather warms and you get into cleaning under the hood, you may hold the definitive answer as to what is correct.

Thanks, Mike.

Dan

I needed an Alternator for 249 and found this in my parts heap:

LT140-53 012 23100 A4800.jpg

Alternator Grapefruit 1.jpg

Alternator Grapefruit 2.jpg

Alternator Grapefruit 3.jpg

Alternator Grapefruit 4.jpg

Alternator Grapefruit 5.jpg

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