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Bart Hoedemaker

Advice of tuners and mechanics needed!

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I'm going to upgrade my L24 for some more HP and Torque. I don't want it turbo or supercharged just N/A Tuned.

I'm putting down my ideas here, and like opinions of people here to..or maybe you have a better advice for me..!

My idea:

Lighten the std crankshaft.

Lighten the std flywheel or buy a sport clutch.

Stage III or IV Camshaft, with maybe adjustable camshaft pulley, so timing can be set better.

Stronger rocker arms and springs.

E30 Head flowing and lighten the valves to make more airflow space. Raised internal compression.

MSD Ignition system.. ( Are there any that fit on Nissan L series engines? ) NGK or Denso spark plugs.

3 Weber or Mikuni 45 or 50 mm carbs. With upgraded fuel pump.

6 to 2 to 1 or a 6 to 1 Motorsport exhaust headers..and complete open pipe to the back just an end muffler.

The fuel used is RON 98.

Am i forgetting something? I''m not an expert on Nissan L series engines..help me out!

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You can save some money on rockers, as the stock ones were used by racing teams since the 70's. Your money is better spent on new stock replacements if you want peace of mind. 50mm carbs are borderline race only carbs and definitely race only on a 2.4 liter.

Stick to the 40mm triples and you will be much happier even with your big cam. Make sure your radiator/starter/water pump are in great condition, as your increased compression, heat load, etc will take its toll.

But before I can go farther, what are you plans for the car? Is it a track car. Daily driver. You need to know what its use will be. Keep in mind that the further you go from stock, the less reliable it will be. If you don't mind wrenching on it on a regular basis, then you can go more all out. But if you want to drive it regularly, then I would be cautious, to build such a high end screamer. Be honest with yourself, and you will end up much happier.

Also, how are the rest of the mechanicals. Diff in good shape, half shafts okay. How are your brakes. Before you can go fast, you should probably be able to slow down.

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Then i will use the original rockers, as i'm not worried with it.

The brakes will be upgraded offcourse, both front and rear. The car will be lowered on stiff suspension. With some wide wheels. It must be still useable for normal road use. I don't mind a high end screamer... Regular wrenching isn't so bad either.. Although i'm sure it's not needed, if the engine is build up good.

Diff en gearing house is in good shape.

Do you know something about the iginition, for instance MSD or Mallory to the have kit's for the Nissan L series engine? Or do i need to adjust myself?

Thnx in advance.

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If you aren't concerned about matching numbers, then you may as well put a L28 in there.

Most of the power is in the head development alone. A wee bit of chamber work to let it flow a bit better is all you need for a street motor, that combined with bigger valves and some mild porting to the inlets.

Some 44's or 45's would be good for you.

I know nothing about ignition systems yet sorry. Mine is not at that stage.

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This link is pretty much the authority on what you can do with a stock 240Z and swap parts around to get as much as you can. Other than what others have said, you can increase torque and HP in the low end of speeds with a differential. Now, some may dissagree that increasing the differential ratio actually increases horspower.... well.... it does at the low end of the engine rpm.

HP= ft lbs/time. This is why there is a difference between flywheel HP and rear wheel HP.

http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

Its a good read. Enjoy.

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Bart-If you're using a new cam, you will also need to use new rockers (Nissan is the choice) as the old rockers break in to the original stock cam. A stage III cam will require different lash pads to get rocker geometry correct. Isky regrinds Datsun cams and provides the correct springs and lash pads. The reground cams are metal compatable with the original steel. www.ISKYCAMS.COM Good Luck Guy

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This link is pretty much the authority on what you can do with a stock 240Z and swap parts around to get as much as you can. Other than what others have said, you can increase torque and HP in the low end of speeds with a differential. Now, some may dissagree that increasing the differential ratio actually increases horspower.... well.... it does at the low end of the engine rpm.

HP= ft lbs/time. This is why there is a difference between flywheel HP and rear wheel HP.

http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

Its a good read. Enjoy.

HP = (torque in (lb*ft)*RPM)/5252, note that RPM has time AND motion in it.

Changing gearing changes the RPM in inverse relation to torque. Double the rpm, half the torque. Power stays the same. The reason RWHP is different from crankshaft HP is frictional losses in the drivetrain. You will note that RWHP is always less than crankshaft HP all other things being equal.

Steve

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All of the above, plus don't mess with the crank. A lightened flywheel will provide plenty of fast revs....unless you're going to drag race it, then a heavier flywheel is called for.

My Z has been phenomenal with the Pertronix system. It's relatively inexpensive and, so far, has been bullet-proof. I recommend it highly. And stick with the NKG plugs.

Frank

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MSD and Crane both make systems that are compatible with the 240Z distributor. I chose Crane HI-6 with the optical trigger adaptor and LX-92 coil. You will need a Crane or MSD tach adaptor 8920.

The L28 with the will give you more torque just because of the larger displacement. I concur with the previous posts regarding mods and reality checks.

I recently moved away from triple 44 mm Mikunis to try individual throttle body fuel injection and man is it a winner! Throttle response is so much better I will never go back to carbs. BTW, my Mikunis were optimized too and they still were no match for the FI.

Good luck.

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