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How much for paint


Roundy

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I am a real new to this stuff. Have 76z and want to get a full paint job. Anyone have any idea what this will cost? Want to use a non stock color like a black cherry red color. I'm just looking for a ballpark figure:stupid:

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Roundy, your best bet is to look around and talk to some of the custom auto body paints shops. There are a lot here in the Lynnwood area, and if they don't know, they can point you in the right direction. I know when I was talking to some of them, a "ballpark figure" was 2500 to 6000, depending on the type of paint I was going to use, and any body work needing done. And that is mostly labor. Stay away from Maaco, for you get what you pay for from them, literally.

Justin

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You're talking interior, engine compartment, jambs, exterior in a hot rod red? First of all the materials alone can run a grand easy and the labor can be huge depending on how much hidden rust repair work needs to be done. Labor to dissaemble and the labor to make everything flat and straight (correctly) could be a couple hundred man hours plus reassembly.

I'm guessing an easy $10 - $15 grand.

Finding someone you'd be happy with and who'd even take a look at such a project will be the real test. The average body shop can roll many times the value of your job in and out the door in the time it would take to do your job.....

Bruce Palmer

[email protected]

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My job included, door/trunk jambs, removal of glass, refitted with new rubber everywhere, bodywork, rust repair (fitting in new metal), new logos and trim, and restoring back to #306 silver.

$3,700

Initial quote was for $3,300.

But, everyone else will tell you that it will depend on the extent of work and time. I am happy with my job, but it was not a complete tear-down. I suppose location may be a factor too. Good luck!

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Roundy, SNIP... Stay away from Maaco, for you get what you pay for from them, literally.

Justin

I can not agree with this underlined statement one of our members owns one of the Maaco shops and his work is pristine.

You get what you pay for in all the shops. That is why we shop price and quality. Match what we want with the price we can afford.

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First off there are two totally different things here. There are body shops, that normally do collision work. Then there are restoration shops, that specialize in restorations. If you are looking for a pristine job, are willing to wait and spend a lot of money, then go to a restoration shop. If you want a quick, cheap job that will look better than what you've got, then a body shop is fine. Very few body shops quality work. They're used to taking short cuts because most of their work is done through insurance companies that pay them squat to fix cars. In my whole area, there is only ONE body shop that does good work, so good ones are few and far between.

Just so you know, doing it "right" costs a ton and takes a lot of time. I have over 20 hours in just DAing the paint off my car.

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a7dz, most of the work I've seen from Maaco has been crap. My Z, thank god I rescued it, because the PO was going to take it to Maaco to have the hole under the battery and in the firewall fixed, and they were going to put in fiberglass instead of new metal. I'm sure our memeber here that owns his own shop does a pristine job on his car, and maybe others, but the experiences I've seen from friends who had work done from Maaco has been crap, and they paid for ther job as much as a higher quality shop.

Justin

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I'll actually have to agree with A7DZ on this one. It's all outlined in the statement ("You get what you pay for")

I too have seen many a crappy job come out of Maaco and Earl Shibe BUT...... I have also seen some beautiful jobs come out of the same building.

The nice ones were the ones who actually forked out real cash and weren't looking for that "Just paint the damn thing so I can sell it" Paint job.

The statement holds true for about 80% of the shops in question. Some shops just plain old SUCK. but most will give ya what ya pay for. I was given a $4500 estimate on repairing all the dings and a top quality paint job on my 70'. And that was just a rough estimate on a walk around the Z.

I got a $1500 estimate on repairing the damage and painting the new hood after that kid backed into me, from one shop. The other shop gave me a $3500 price and the same repairs but they included the high price for top quality work, baking the paint on, and rebuilding my cowl induction hood.

I quess it all comes down to "How high do you want the quality to be, and how much are you willing to pay for that quality work?" Maaco can do a great job, but like any good shop, you gotta pay for it. Some shops won't do "quick, easy and cheap" But Maaco will cause there is money in it. You won't pay a "Big Shop" $300 to install an alternator but you'll fork out $50 for the mechanic next door to do it on his time. And he does quality work as well as quick, easy and cheap.

See what I mean?

Dave.

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I've paid Maaco $450 to paint a car and I've paid $4,000 for a body shop to do the same. Both lasted years and looked great during the time I owned the vehicles here in Phoenix Arizona. Like all of my vehicles, I cleaned, polished and waxed the paint on a regular basis.

With the Maaco job, I removed all of the trim and then did the body-work myself. The panels were fairly straight so I didn't have that much filler work to do but I did the skim coat, guide coat routine just to be sure.

If you have the facilities, tools and experience, try prepping it yourself then consider taking it to Maaco. Learning how to do acceptable body-work is achieveable and there are many references available for the DIY.

This is one way to get good results and save some money.

Good luck with your efforts.

Bruce

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Don't forget to have any and all shops to budget in any rust repair work. Spending money on paint over hidden rust (which northwest cars are known for) will only make you soggy and hard to light when those all too common rust blisters start raising that paint. Any body out ther want to give me an amen??

The painter at our shop is getting all to good at replacing doglegs and taillight panels on "rust free" Z's. He's getting very adept at buidling in rust contingencies into his "estimates".......

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Bkelly, I second Palmer on this one. I did my Z in my own home garage. The paint job turned out good. Not perfect but good. The paint , which I bought the best PPG paint, cost right around $700.00. This includes the primer and clear. and related supplies. If you want a 20 footer Mako will do. Until the rust blisters though. Otherwise find a shop that does Show/Hot Rods. there out there . I pulled my engine and all the glass and interior, dash included as well as all the wiring. It took me about 2 weeks to prep for paint . Not including the body work. These were 8 hrs + days. Lots of wet sanding. To get a vary nice paint job takes time and talent. EScanlon shot my car and he did a great job. If we had a real booth the car would have come out a 10+ . I think she is a 8 3/4 now. So depending on your expectations, and be clear to the shop doing the job, the cost will vary. The more you do to get the car ready the more you will save. Don't do any primer because the painters will just have to sand it off , if they are going to guarantee the job. Personally I like the engine bay to be the same finish as the body. This calls for the engine to come out. And all the stuff to be removed that is bolted and clipped in there. The glass should also come out , you most likely need new rubber any way. I think my job including body and paint complete would have cost at least $8,000.00. Most likely more. I just don't have that kind of money, so I did it my self. took almost 3 years. So choose wisely. Gary:rambo:

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Roundy-as other have mentioned or alluded to the biggest part of a good paint job is the prep work.Good bodymen aren't always good painters.Point being-if you give MAACO,Sheib,1 Day a good"canvas" to start with,you can get good work from them.I've seen(stereo) typical MAACO paint jobs and i've seen some that MAACO would have been my last guess as to who squirted the car.

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Just a question Roundy.. Are you able or willing to do any of the prep or are you just going to give the paint shop the keys and tell them "have at it"??

You can save a buttload of money doing your own prep. It's not that difficult to learn either. The cost of equipping your garage with the right tools isn't so bad if you shop around. (Plus you have a nice tool collection at the end)

Here's a page I made which outlines some things you might want to know. I'm just an ameteur but I've done a few vehicles and had decent results.

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

Jim

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My job included, door/trunk jambs, removal of glass, refitted with new rubber everywhere, bodywork, rust repair (fitting in new metal), new logos and trim, and restoring back to #306 silver.

$3,700

Initial quote was for $3,300.

But, everyone else will tell you that it will depend on the extent of work and time. I am happy with my job, but it was not a complete tear-down. I suppose location may be a factor too. Good luck!

YOU GOT IT GOOD!!

Same work here in Portland Oregon just cost $6,000 ... and another $2k in my own parts ... for the same stuff ... geeeeeze.

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For the truly cheap paint you could try:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20410&highlight=Roller+paint

ROFL

I ended up painting mine with a brush, and wet sanding, then buffing it for months. It looks like it was painted a long time ago, and has seen better days.

I used Valspar tractor paint. Originally I used about 2 1/2 gallons, and now I need to buy some more to touch-up some areas that I missed, or buffed too thin.

It was way too much work, and really the result is only acceptable to me because I was trying to build a fun driver, not something that will win car shows.

On the other hand, I dropped a sharp metal tool on the fender last fall and scratched the paint. The repair was quick and easy. I just filled the scratch with paint, let it cure for a week, then buffed it out. It looks like scratch was never there.

:)

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Mine was done by a restoration guy who had to strip 5 layers of paint off my Z as I went through "color phases". Original color was 72 yellow. Then I went to 73 Dodge Lime Green. Then to burgundy, and finally stripped to color sanded Dietzler White.

The last job ran $3500 in LA by a guy has since retired.

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I agree with many here.

Maaco is pretty much garbage. If you take them a stripped and masked car with all prep work done, they may do a decent job. A good paint job is going to cost at least $4k+ IMO. Frame shops and resto shops will do the best work. I would argue that a really high quality job if there is a fair amount of body and rust work needed will run closer to $10k.

With paint work, you really do get what you pay for.

I painted a GTI myself with PPG and it was $1k for materials.

The key to any paintjob is pre and post work.

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My Z is in now getting prepped and painted, still dont have a final cost/estimate. But I saved at least $2k off the price by stripping it myself. There were 4 colors on it, and when I got down to bare metal there were a few spots I touched up with braze. I also had to get a new door, hood, and rear valence. I put a whole summer into just stripping it, and Im sure Ill get a much better result because I took the time to get every bit of paint off everywhere.

I would say conservatively 200 hours went into it. Although Im just a hacker at it, and a shop would have been alot quicker and more efficient. The body shop guy even said he wouldnt have been able to get it done unless it was bare. He said he wouldnt have touched it and I couldnt have afforded it (if I wanted a good job, not just a sanding and repainting).

Just my 2 cents from what little experience I have.

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