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Homemade speaker box for 6x9s


TomoHawk

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There is a wee bit more math to it if you want to tune your boxes to your speakers, here are some sites to help if you have a decent poop sheet on your speakers(but then if you did, it would suggest a range of correct volumes, and have given directions...)...

overview

http://www.kbapps.com/construction.html

A better overview

http://www.homerecordingconnection.com/news.php?action=view_story&id=32

Basic math

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm

There are a big old bunch of websites on this, but essentially they all boil down to three types

Ported, Completely sealed, and hybrid.

The box is open, the box is closed, the box is closed but effectively open.

If you had room in the car you could add horn loading, but that is quite a challenge in a Z.

Will

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I made a basic box using left over MDF I had in my garage. Basically you take some measurements of the area you want to make the box in, then cut out a rough draft of the shape (over estimate by a lot) then use cardboard to fine tune your shape, cutting and changing the shape as you go along then using it as a final template for the cuts. I will post a picture later when I get a chance.

My 'box' isn't sealed, it's just a vertical board that has a hinge top (yet to be installed) so that i can get to my tail lights in the back. It works well cause you can't see the speakers in the back when you look from the rear of the car (much safer against the thieves). It's not the best box for sound quality, but it's all made out of recycled stuff, so the free price was right.

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figure half a cubic foot per speaker. That'll give ya some good low end. Make sure that you aim the speakers towards the listener. You can also cross flow the sound by placing each 6X9 in the back corners of your Z. Aiming the left speaker at the right side and so on.

Just remember that high end systems don't have high wattage audio amps to make them louder, they made them cleaner and clearer at both HI and LOW volumes. Underpowering your speakers by using only the wattage provided by the cd player can actually harm your speakers over time. When a speaker is designed with 50 watts RMS and a max rating of 200 watts, you should at least have a 100 watt amp. 50 watts per speaker and so on.

Don't use Plywood!! Tom, the 80's called, they want their plywood speaker box's back.

Use cardboard for making each template, it's cheaper than wasting good wood or fiberglass.

my 2 cents

Dave.

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Thought ya might get a kick out of that one.

2 weeks ago, some Honda driving little punk had the nerve to tell me that "the 70's called, they want their car back" So my quick comeback was "that's OK, the 90's called, they want their diapers back"

He drove off without another word. Young punks.

Dave.

PS. Bumping your cubic feet up a notch will help with the lower end, 6X9's round off to about a 7.5 inch speaker and always sound better in about a 1/2 CF box. Sealed of coarse.

FWIW

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I think my boxes are the biggest that will fit in the back of my car. I measured the area, then went to BestBuy and they had some finished boxes that were an inch too wide. O-L.. No biggie for me to make the boxes (I used to build cabinets). Just that glue takes a night to fix.

I need to decide on a vinyl or carpet (felt?) covering.

thx

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At a chain called "Princess Auto", that sells low cost Chinese (mostly) manufactured goods - I found 6" X 9" cases as Tomohawk is making and 240zgraham73 shows, but felt covered, prewired c/w rear connectors, glued and batten stuffed for $8 cdn.

I installed a set of Pioneer demos $20 in them and hooked up to a middle of the road Sony radio (c/w input for Ipod) - grand total $140 cdn. Very pleased.

I think without cutting up your Z these boxes work great even if they look a little dated. Their low cost makes them look better to me.

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"I think without cutting up your Z these boxes work great even if they look a little dated. Their low cost makes them look better to me."

Don't consider them "dated"...How about period correct?

Isn't that Princess Auto great? You never know what you will come across. Every time I go in there, they have something different. They get a lot of old/surplus inventory in bulk too.

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So I take it you'd think that a felt covering for rthe speaker boxes would be the correct thing to do? With the black loop pile carpering in the back, and the silver-grey side panels I think I'd go for a matte-grey covering. Something that might not get too dirty if you handled them after driving several hours to a show, or on the road. Maybe even some of the newer polyester floor carpet.

There was never any mention of how big the pressure hole should be. What do you think for 6x9s in a box about 5x8x12?

Mine are done & ready for covering; I'll get some pics- if I can remember. :squareeye

thx

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  • 3 weeks later...

I made my boxes with 1/2 inch chipboard for the ends, and 1/4 inch MDF for the sides. I made the oval port on the end with a 1 1/4 inch holesaw, cutting two holes close together and then cutting away the wood between. the speaker were from WalMart, and I got a deal at the sewing store: 1 yd of the felt-like cloth for $3. the 72 inch wide cloth was plenty for the two boxes. Then I soldered a length of 18 gauge copper stranded wire with with some connectors on the ends.

thx

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I purchased mine from motorsport. Easy and effective.

I've been wondering about these -- how are they secured? I would just be worried about not being able to throw the carpet up to get at the spare tire well.

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The purpose of securing them is not so much that they don't move around under normal circumstances, but rather that they don't become projectiles during a collision that can cause significant injury or death. I suggest that you develop some sort of way to batten these down so you don't become just another statistic in the event of an accident.

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I'm happy w/my setup. And it sounds much better than the MSA box. I sold that thing about 6 years ago. I now have a 12" Kenwood sub, 4 Pioneer 6 X 9's, 300 W amp, round Pioneers in the stock location below the quarter windows, and tweeters on the winshield pillar moldings. In the future, I'm going to lose the CD changer a go with a MP3/Ipod capable head unit. The rear section still raises up for access.

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The purpose of securing them is not so much that they don't move around under normal circumstances, but rather that they don't become projectiles during a collision that can cause significant injury or death. I suggest that you develop some sort of way to batten these down so you don't become just another statistic in the event of an accident.
Are you speaking from experience? :laugh: (just kidding) IMO, if you are in such a collision that things will go flying around, you are probably in serious trouble period. It's the more likely things will roll around in the front of the car (phone, coffee cup, toys, soccer ball, etc) during normal driving that you need to be constantly concerned about. But there's no reason not to secure every loose thing in the car.

thxZ

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... It's the more likely things will roll around in the front of the car (phone, coffee cup, toys, soccer ball, etc) during normal driving that you need to be constantly concerned about. But there's no reason not to secure every loose thing in the car.

thxZ

Good reason to don an atheletic supporter before a brisk ride!ROFL

Will

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No coffee cup, toys, soccer balls, etc. when I drive and my cell phone is in my pocket. My stereo system is all adequately secured mainly to avoid the vibratrion associated with a higher power sytem but it will also prevent the 'projectile' syndrome. Like you say though, at thay point, there would be other concerns.

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