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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432


kats

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On 1/27/2013 at 1:39 PM, kats said:

Hi,

Yesterday I was at the party, " Mr. and Mrs. K 203 years "

Mr.K is 103 years old, and Mrs.K is 100 years old!!

They are both very well, I was simply amazed Mr.K made a speech

25 minutes just like used to , nothing has changed from when I met Mr.K

first time in 2000.

Mr.K slipped and fell down in his house last year ,he had his head sewed

up the cut 8 stitches , but that's all, nothing bad after that,Mr.K recovered

so fast and so well.

Damon from Texas also made a speech and passed a heart warming message

from Mike Taylor.

Tetsu was a interpreter for him.

You can see another very important person for Nissan, Mr. and Mrs. Usami

behind.

Mr. and Mrs.K they drink water very much everyday ,

they said that is why they are still very well.

I am so glad that I was there, more and more I love my Zs forever.

Kats

post-3193-14150822548635_thumb.jpg

post-3193-14150822549294_thumb.jpg

Time flies, today is Mr.K passed away at age 105 in 2015. I still remember the party was so wonderful. Mr. and Mrs. K we’re doing very good. Thank you so much Katayama san! 

Kats

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On 2/18/2023 at 4:47 PM, kats said:

By the way, do you think the reason why the open type spinning collar nut became dome type head nut would be to prevent studs from dirt and soil? I would like to know how about Works cars on the circuit at the same time frame. 

My impression would be the opposite. I feel that any closed-end nut being used in rally type conditions (with servicing/wheel changes being carried out in dust/snow/mud/gravel) would run the risk of accidental contamination inside (small stones? mud?) during changes, with obvious negative results. I don't see any reason why open-ended nuts would be a risk to the wheel studs, so there must have been other reasons why they changed from open-ended to closed-end (and dome) nuts.

This is serious rivet counting! Kevin's theory was that the dome-headed nuts fitted neatly into the classic wheel braces that were in use at the time, and which were part of the tool kit on the Works cars. If you look inside one of that type of 'spider' or 'flat four' wheel brace, you can often see a negative dome inside. Kevin thought that the dome nuts fit neatly into this without 'cocking' (risking cross-threading) leading to faster and more reliable wheel changes. It sounds feasible to me...

In terms of Works circuit racing cars, in period photos I see both open and closed-end nuts being used. Inconclusive.

 

 

Heres's a Works mechanic using said 'spider' type wheel brace on the car of Tony Fall and Mike Wood, on the 1971 RAC Rally:

71-RAC-Service-3641-5.JPG 

 

   

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  • 1 month later...

Today's puzzle.  I have two s20 exhaust manifolds, which to my eye appear to be meant for the C10 GTR models.  One of them has been shortened, i'm guessing for use in a Z432.  Since I don't have an original-looking Z432 S20 exhaust manifold on my Z432, I thought it would be a suitable exercise to get this manifold re-flanged for use in a Z432.  At the same time, I'd replace the one section of pipe that has somehow been squashed. 

Not entirely sure of the origin of these manifolds.  Any thoughts as to where they might have come from?  The pipes appear to be stainless. The cut unit appears to have a custom mounting bracket, which I'm guessing by it's position was mounted onto a custom bracket off of the bell housing/rear of engine block.  The bracket does not appear to be aligned with anything I can see on my cars.

What I'd like to know is the horizontal distance between the last bolt-hole on the exhaust port and the exhaust pipe flange.  In other words, how far back from the rear-most bolt hole is the flange located, in order to properly bolt up to a standard exhaust setup? If anyone has a part that's out of the car (even an aftermarket bolt-up part will hopefully have the same dimension) this would be a straightforward exercise, and I'd be grateful.

 

 

IMG_1581.jpeg

Edited by xs10shl
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25 minutes ago, xs10shl said:

What I'd like to know is the horizontal distance between the last bolt-hole on the exhaust port and the exhaust pipe flange.  In other words, how far back from the rear-most bolt hole is the flange located, in order to properly bolt up to a standard exhaust setup? If anyone has a part that's out of the car (even an aftermarket bolt-up part will hopefully have the same dimension) this would be a straightforward exercise, and I'd be grateful.

I've got an OEM exhaust manifold from an early 1970 432 hanging on the wall in one of my garages. I can measure it for you tomorrow.

 

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Here's my early 1970 PS30-type S20 OEM exhaust manifold and the dimensions from the centre of the rearmost hole in the mounting flange horizontal to a 90 degree line from the mounting face of the 'binocular' flange and the centre of its innermost bolt hole (does that make sense?).

Anyway, pictures saving words:

1970 PS30 Ex-Mani-2.JPG

1970 PS30 Ex-Mani-1.JPG 

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Hope that helps. Happy to take any other measurements/photos if required.

13 hours ago, xs10shl said:

Not entirely sure of the origin of these manifolds.  Any thoughts as to where they might have come from?  The pipes appear to be stainless. The cut unit appears to have a custom mounting bracket, which I'm guessing by it's position was mounted onto a custom bracket off of the bell housing/rear of engine block.  The bracket does not appear to be aligned with anything I can see on my cars.

Can't help with any identifications here I'm afraid, although I have seen brackets in that area on C10-series GTR-specific aftermarket manifolds in the past, bracing them to the bellhousing.

Actually I have seen many, many aftermarket exhaust manifolds for these engines. Some of them were one-offs or made in really small batches. The ex manifold on my KPGC10 was made by a race car builder called 'Ito Racing' specifically for the car in the late 1970s, and was beautifully made in the old school sand-filled hand-bending method. It would have been almost impossible to identify without the knowledge passed-on by the previous owner, who commissioned it.   

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2 hours ago, HS30-H said:

Hope that helps. Happy to take any other measurements/photos if required.

Yes, this is perfect!.  Many thanks!

I'll use this to give the fab guys something to go by. 

Edited by xs10shl
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On 4/6/2023 at 7:10 AM, xs10shl said:

Today's puzzle.  I have two s20 exhaust manifolds, which to my eye appear to be meant for the C10 GTR models.  One of them has been shortened, i'm guessing for use in a Z432.  Since I don't have an original-looking Z432 S20 exhaust manifold on my Z432, I thought it would be a suitable exercise to get this manifold re-flanged for use in a Z432.  At the same time, I'd replace the one section of pipe that has somehow been squashed. 

Not entirely sure of the origin of these manifolds.  Any thoughts as to where they might have come from?  The pipes appear to be stainless. The cut unit appears to have a custom mounting bracket, which I'm guessing by it's position was mounted onto a custom bracket off of the bell housing/rear of engine block.  The bracket does not appear to be aligned with anything I can see on my cars.

What I'd like to know is the horizontal distance between the last bolt-hole on the exhaust port and the exhaust pipe flange.  In other words, how far back from the rear-most bolt hole is the flange located, in order to properly bolt up to a standard exhaust setup? If anyone has a part that's out of the car (even an aftermarket bolt-up part will hopefully have the same dimension) this would be a straightforward exercise, and I'd be grateful.

 

 

IMG_1581.jpeg

Hi, 

I show this again, a Z432 Sports Option manifold and a Z432 STD manifold. Looks like GTR has similar pipes to the Z432 Sports Option, but bottom junction is different.

Kats

C808359F-2BA5-4ECA-965C-BC497CDE6803.jpeg

8AAF4064-F351-47EC-933D-3AFC81A0629F.jpeg

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