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Dash Repair Process/Pictures


BD240Z

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Suggest you experiment with the SEM Bumper-Bite product before getting anywhere close to your dash with it.  The set-up time is very short (well under a minute, in my experience), so you'll only get about 30 s. to mix and apply before it starts to get granular and won't spread/fill properly.  I experimented with different mixes of catalyst:filler and found no change in the set-up time.  I ended up working with very small batches ( ~ 1/2" of filler, ~ 1/4" of catalyst).  Tedious, but the only way I found that would work.  To maximize your apply time window, mix quickly with the same flex-blade applicator that you'll use to apply the filler to the dash.

 

To reinforce Steve's comments about keeping the SEM layer thin, try this as an experiment:  Apply a 1/8" thick layer of Bumper-Bite to a piece of a cereal box.  Let it set up, then bend the boxboard.  If you get the same results I did, you'll find that Bumper-Bite is only slightly flexible.  Better than Bondo, I'm sure, but not flexible like a sheet of polyethylene plastic.

 

Finish-sanding the Z dash is a real challenge, because contours are both convex and concave, and run in multiple directions.  I found the contoured sanding blocks sold by Eastwood ('Dura-Block'?) to be perfect for the job (including the instrumend pod recesses, where I had chipped-out sections that needed repair).  The SEM product sands very nicely, but you'll inevitably get some pinholes -- which the SEM product doesn't work very well on.  I used local applications of Bondo's glazing putty and got good results.

 

Be sure to use eye protection when carving and bevelling the edges of the dash vinyl layer with your Dremel. The cuttings are tiny but very sharp-edged.

 

If you're going to be in the Burlington area, let me know.  My bare, restored dash is still sitting in the basement waiting to be built up and re-installed in the car, so you can have an up-close look at the end result (which I'm quite happy with).

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This is a great thread, with some excellent information.   Although I came across this thread a little late I am very happy I found it.   I just recently began the repair process on my own dash,  i had some pretty large cracks.   

 

I did not use the great stuff,  I wish I did cause it looks a lot faster and friendlier.

 

I used A West System Product,  G flex 655 2 part thickened epoxy, for the whole job, filling the cracks and then the final skim    At my job i am a west system dealer and this is their best product for hard to bond materials, and its about the only  2 part "flexible" epoxy,   it is suppose to expand and contact with the dash. 

 

My repair is almost complete, I still have to block it out and paint!   Fingers crossed it doesn't  crack again!

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is on the list of fixes for this spring for my '71 240z.

 

Is there a benefit to putting a skim coat of dash repair over a much larger section of the dash (or the whole dash) to ensure uniformity the dash?  I assume that it will require a bit more work, but would it improve the durability of the finished product?  

 

I plan on refurbishing my dash and console (and fuse cover, glove box, etc) at the same time and respraying them with the same texture for consistency.  

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  • 5 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey guys, How perfect does the surface have to be before spraying down the SEM texture paint?

 

I was pretty confident with my work , but when i sprayed some rocker panel texture guard (body shop recommended it) , i wasnt too happy as i could see some blemishes. So im going over it again and got a can of sem texture paint this time.

 

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post-7225-0-15816700-1447381536_thumb.jp

post-7225-0-18236700-1447381550_thumb.jp

Last pic was when i started to sand it, but shows a few blemishes .

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  • 1 year later...

hard to tell from your pictures if they are small cracks  or something poked small iholes  in dash.

If the hole is cracked all the way around,then I would remove that tiny piece. 

No need for filling with foam on these small ones, foam only for deep wide open cracks.

I would tape off the good surrounding areas around each one or group since you will want to keep as much of the good dash texture as you can.

Sand the area in question for something for the filler to bite into. Clean area well and apply thin layer of filer and let it set up. Sand until it is about level or close to being about right. 

Then remove the tape and do the final feather edge sanding.   

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  • 1 year later...

I am not here to hijack this thread...just do an update on my dash.

I was asked recently to share how my dashed has held up using the Six10 marine epoxy ( The Six10 Marine Epoxy Link: Six10 Introduction )  as surface repair and feathering material when I repaired my dash while still in the car back in 2013.  Now that it is August 2018 ... 5-1/2 years later the dash looks super.    Here are recent pics after I installed a Refurbished Stock Working clock in the dash. 

Note:  My car is in North Carolina and stored in a garage without climate control.  Temps reach 100+ in the summer and as low as 0F in the winter... and no cracks have been observed.   

How to use Six-10 Epoxy: 

Reference this old post from 2013:  

 

Clock 6-14-2018 (1).jpg

Clock 6-14-2018 (4).jpg

Console 2018 - New Clock & Console Restored (2).jpg

Console 2018 - New Clock & Console Restored (3).jpg

Console 2018 - New Clock & Console Restored (4).jpg

Edited by moritz55
Added Instructional Video
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  • 5 years later...

Happy New Year Nick from North Carolina!!  I just took some pics a few hours ago for you.  

My very first repair was done in August 2009 using SEM Bumper Epoxy and after ~3yrs it started to crack again.  The 2nd repair on Dash was done in August 2013 (see the 3 dark pics) and today Jan 7th 2024 (the last 5 pics), 10-1/2yrs later the dash has held up real well for me using Six-10 Epoxy.  I dug out as much as possible, used the Foam Stuff and then flared Six-10 epoxy at least 1inch beyond the areas I had used SEM Bumper Epoxy. 

I do have a very small crack that surfaced about 5yrs ago in the center as you can see where obviously my Six-10 epoxy repair was not adequate given it was to close to the windshield and I had a hard time filling, flaring and sanding with the epoxy.  To be honest it's not even noticeable while in the car and I have used black shoe polish to fill it if I go to a high end car show just to eliminate the appearance.  I am a hug fan using Six-10 Marine epoxy and used it on many car and boat projects.  It spreads amazingly, cures hard and sands smooth quite easily.

Overall it was the best decision yet laborious task I did to finish off the interior.  Especially since it's been kept in a non-climate controlled garage in NC where summer temps in the garage can reach 100F often. Only regret was not doing this when I had the windshield out being replaced!

Many thanks for asking!

Mark

Dash -007.JPG

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Dash 2012 (1).JPG

Dash 2012 (2).JPG

Dash 2012 (3).JPG

Dash 2024 (1).jpg

Dash 2024 (2).jpg

Dash 2024 (3).jpg

Dash 2024 (4).jpg

Dash 2024 (5).jpg

Edited by moritz55
  • Like 3
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