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Front Passenger Hub is Binding - Help


ktm

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Well if all else fails I have two sets of 240Z hubs that I put up on ebay and never sold just hanging around, one with stock studs and a bend in the back, but not enough to grind or see when its installed, and another set with long studs. PM me if you're interested. Say $25 for either set...

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Thank you for the offer Jon. I am going to give it one more try tomorrow and if I can not get it to go, I'll probably take you up on your offer. I'll drop you a PM either way.

Again, thank you.

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shot in the dark here, but did you receive the correct rotors?

the first set i got from the parts store mistakenly turned out to be for a 280z. there was a definite height difference (1/4-1/2" IIRC) from rotor face to hub which could account for the heavy grinding.

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Good thought Bart. I have had that happen also.

Check the bearing races, bearing and seals to make sure they are COMPLETELY seated. I replaced my bearing recently and thought I had everything well seated. Drove the car a few miles and started hearing some noises from the front. I had to re-torque the bearings quite a bit once they fully seated.

Marty

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Both boxes were marked with the correct part number. Also, the back of the hub does slightly protrude from the back face of the rotor. My dust shields are freshly painted. Any grinding on the dust shield would be immediately evident. Furthermore, the driver's side does not bind or grind at all, which leads me to believe that it is hub related.

I had a thought last night that my race may not be seated correctly. I had a shop seat the races after pulling my shocks out. I say this now as a result of my observation late last night. When the bearing stuck to the spindle, it appeared to be kilted. This would explain the binding, but I do not know if it would cause the horrendous grinding I was hearing.

Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. This is driving me crazy. The car has been non-op since July because I am taking me time and thoroughly cleaning, repair/replacing, and stripping/preping/painting everything (to include the Ziebart undercoating). I am soooooo close to getting the front done and now this.

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Both boxes were marked with the correct part number. Also, the back of the hub does slightly protrude from the back face of the rotor. My dust shields are freshly painted. Any grinding on the dust shield would be immediately evident. Furthermore, the driver's side does not bind or grind at all, which leads me to believe that it is hub related.

I had a thought last night that my race may not be seated correctly. I had a shop seat the races after pulling my shocks out. I say this now as a result of my observation late last night. When the bearing stuck to the spindle, it appeared to be kilted. This would explain the binding, but I do not know if it would cause the horrendous grinding I was hearing.

Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. This is driving me crazy. The car has been non-op since July because I am taking me time and thoroughly cleaning, repair/replacing, and stripping/preping/painting everything (to include the Ziebart undercoating). I am soooooo close to getting the front done and now this.

Don't trust the boxes!!! The rotor I got was the correct box, with the wrong part inside. Check it against the other rotor or the old one. You could even swap it over to the other side and see if it is a problem there.

But, if the race is kilted, that sounds like your problem. Carefully tap that race down completely and reassemble it.

Marty

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Problem solved. The race was not seated properly. I should have double-checked the shop's work. The race was 1/16-in. off.

New race, new bearing, new seal and she spins freely without a sound.

Thank you for all the help.

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