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Different Drive Shaft Lengths?


Marty Rogan

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I put an '83 L28 and matching 5 spd into my early '71. I am getting a clunk where I didn't have it before, with the stock L24 and '78 5spd. The U-joints are all pretty new and I replaced the front diff mount.

Although I don't remember reading about having to change out drive shafts, I started wondering if there was a difference in the length when they set the diff back on the later models. Anybody know about that?

TIA,

Marty

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Uncertain, Marty. The factory fiche shows a different driveshaft assembly for up to 8/71, and 9/71 on. But all the individual components (main shaft, and yokes on both ends) are the same up through 11/74.

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I have never seen drive axels of different lengths. The topic has been discussed before and I believe I read that the shafts are all the same lengths. The setting back of the diff should cure problems with the u joints, look into the m-bar bushings and the front diff mount and strap over the top of the diff too, you could have problems there.

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What does your driveshaft measure over all very end to very end(slip yoke, diffy flange)? On an s30 my '73 240 measures 30". Do you have the later driveshaft or the earlier one when the diffy was forward? Did you move the diffy back like on later s30's?

Anyone have a measurement of the driveshaft on a 280zx 2 seater end to end? And the early driveshaft?

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What does your driveshaft measure over all very end to very end(slip yoke, diffy flange)? On an s30 my '73 240 measures 30". Do you have the later driveshaft or the earlier one when the diffy was forward? Did you move the diffy back like on later s30's?

Anyone have a measurement of the driveshaft on a 280zx 2 seater end to end? And the early driveshaft?

I'll have to try to get under there this weekend to measure it. I am using the early '71 drive shaft and the diffy in the original position.

The info on the Zhome webiste suggests that there is 1/16" difference between the early and later trannies. That is what made me wonder if that was the source of my clunk.

Marty

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Might be the dust shield on the driveshaft not fitting correctly over the end of the transmission? How much space was there between the driveshaft flange and the diffy flange when the driveshaft was all the way in the tranny?

Unless you're going to drop the driveshaft don't bother measuring it. The measurement I am looking for is the over all length including to the end of the slip yoke the early driveshaft.

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Might be the dust shield on the driveshaft not fitting correctly over the end of the transmission? How much space was there between the driveshaft flange and the diffy flange when the driveshaft was all the way in the tranny?

Unless you're going to drop the driveshaft don't bother measuring it. The measurement I am looking for is the over all length including to the end of the slip yoke the early driveshaft.

Don't really know without getting under there and disconnecting it. I don't really want to drop the drive shaft right now and have to re-fill the tranny.

Marty

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Thanks arne. The reason I am interested in the measurment for the early driveshaft is for people who are looking into the 240sx tranny swap. They have to cut their driveshaft down for the new tranny to work. I just didn't know what the exact difference was on the earlier driveshafts.

Marty, does it clunk with normal driving or every time you engage the clutch? Maybe if you have a good friend with an exhaust shop will let you use his lift so you can check to see where it's making the clunk. A pit would work better.

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Hi Marty:

The rear end was set back 35mm or 1.37 inch for the Series III cars (1972 Model Year). If you set your rear end back, or if you install an R200 you'll need the longer drive shaft.

You may be getting a clunk where you had none before - because that L28 is a huge increase in low end torque... Check the torque on the bolts, that are on the studs that mount the rear end to the mustache bar. The re-torque the nuts that mount the mustache bar to the subframe. If either of these are slightly loose.. you'll hear the rear end move...

FWIW,

Carl B.

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i have known of a difference in driveshaft length but you must put them side by side and or install two of different lengths in the same car. my realization came from removing an original 71 4 speed driveshaft and installing a 5 speed driveshaft. i cannot on this topic and will rarely say anything is 100% consistant with all build configurations throughout the models but " i have seen original equipment driveshafts of different lenghts that will fit a 240 "

also, i second carls comment.

also, your clunk is likely a manafestation of all the clunks in my history of zs and that is from loose mustache bolts, bushings and or diff mount play.

cdave

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Hi Marty:

The rear end was set back 35mm or 1.37 inch for the Series III cars (1972 Model Year). If you set your rear end back, or if you install an R200 you'll need the longer drive shaft.

You may be getting a clunk where you had none before - because that L28 is a huge increase in low end torque... Check the torque on the bolts, that are on the studs that mount the rear end to the mustache bar. The re-torque the nuts that mount the mustache bar to the subframe. If either of these are slightly loose.. you'll hear the rear end move...

FWIW,

Carl B.

I still have the original diff in there for now, till I can locate a better one (looking for a 4.11: 3.90 or 3.70 R180 LSD). I didn't move it back either, so it sounds like the drive shaft length is ok.

I hear you on the increase in torque, I love it!! That is one of the first things I did was to re-torque all the bolts. I'll check it again. The U-joints are new, the front diff mount is new, and I have checked the bolts. Sounds like the only thing I have not checked yet is the nose strap. Is there a test to perform to know if that is good?

By the way, I get the clunk when taking off and shifting gears.

Marty

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