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ultimate front strut bar

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this design was a modification of Mark Sayers original design....I had the test mule built and tested it for over a year....It works great!

Removal of one bolt is all it takes to access your valve cover...I dont think I can make it any easier....if you have an alternate solution or suggestion let me know....


the photo you see here shows the end with the nut, the other end has a grade 8 allen bolt.


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How are these and the rest that tie into the frame mounted? Do you weld them onto the frame or drill holes and screw them in? Existing holes? It seems that drilling more holes in the frame is not the best thing to do.


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I assume you asking about the installation of the support for the sway bar. In this case it is necessary to drill two 5/8 inch holes through the frame rails where the sway bar mounts to the body.

The only thing holding the sway bar in place is a pair of tack welded bolts inside the frame rail. If you install a larger than stock sway bar eventually one of two things will happen: you will strip out the bolts or crack the frame rail.

Our solution provides the following: a bottom sway bar mounting bracket, see photos... the top tube and plate (see photos) and 2 metal tubes that fit through the frame rail so that upon tightening the bolts through the frame rail, you tranfer the sway bar stress to the top tube, and do not crush the frame rail.

This design eleimates the fatigue normally associated with the factory mount and will allow larger swaybar installations on a 240,260 or 260Z. I plan to add additional photos of this portion as you are not the first person to ask about this....

The rear tubes mount to the top lip of the hood cowl resting against the re-enforced section fo the firewall. Modification to the car is minimal with the exception of the factory sway bar locations...I hope this helps please let me know if you have any additional questions.


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