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kcdc

TC Rod install w/new PU bushings...HELP...

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I need some help. I searched the forums and found lots of info on TC Rods & possiable bending/braking issues w/ PU bushings, but my problem is different.

When I mount the new PU bushings on the rod, the threaded end of the TC Rod is not exposed to put the nut on. I have the bushings and washer in the right order, but the new PU bushings appear to be bigger. My old bushings were way to trashed to get any understaning of what the original set up was. How do I compress this, or install it???

Thanks in advance for any help...

KCDC

Keith

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Duh...

it is a 76' 280z and I have the Victoria British poly bushings. They are Energy Suspension bushings

What brand bushings and what year/model car is it?

(this thread needs more cowbell...)

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I ran into the same issue when I upgraded my front end bushings. Unfortunately, I had a friend push really, really hard while I tried to get the nut onto a thread. Sorry no miracles, just brute force.

Don't forget the silicone lubricant. Some folks did not use it and they report some pretty bad squeakage...

Steve

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I ran into the same issue when I upgraded my front end bushings. Unfortunately, I had a friend push really, really hard while I tried to get the nut onto a thread. Sorry no miracles, just brute force.

Don't forget the silicone lubricant. Some folks did not use it and they report some pretty bad squeakage...

Steve

Thanks Steve...

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Keith, I also had the same problem installing PU bushings on my 240Z TC rods. What I used to compress the PU bushing assembly was a large pair of channel lock pliers. Placed on both of the exterior washers, I was able to compress them enough to get the nut started. As Steve said, its just a matter of brute force! I suppose one could use a come-along to apply a load. If you attached it to the LCA (where the TC rod attaches) and to a point rearward on the chassis. This would certainly compress the front PUs. Just a thought!

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I parked the front tire of my Z about 9" from a parking lot bumper that I was sure was anchored to the pavement (by way of rebar through the bumper into the pavement). The parking bumper had a wide bevel ( like this / ) on the face of it. Then I placed my floor jack, with the base against the bevel, between the parking lot bumper and the front tire. Make sure you place a wide, thick piece of lumber, like a piece of 2 x 6, between the tire and jack, and raise the jack until you have enough of the T/C threaded end through the hole to get the washer and nut on. Do this on both sides making sure both nuts are threaded on the T/C rod the same distance. That'll get you close enough on the alignment to take the car to a shop for a final alignment.

BTW, before you start jacking the floor jack, make sure you have the parking brake on and the rear wheels are chocked so the car won't move backwards.

I was able to do this by myself and it only took about 10 minutes to do one side.

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Would it be a bad thing to cut the bushing a little thinner till it fits?

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Would it be a bad thing to cut the bushing a little thinner till it fits?

I wouldn't consider this unless I could shave each of the bushings EXACTLY the same amount.

JMO

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Hmm, mine went in without a hitch. I replaced mine with PU bushes and with all the grease on them, they slid straight into place. My bushes were exactly the same size as the originals, but blue. I took the whole rod out to replace them, so I don't know if this makes a difference. I still have the old rubber ones on teh floor in the garage, so I can measure them up if you want. This was for a 240Z though.

post-4743-14150795493399_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the replies.

I'm rebuilding the entire front end so he car is on stands & I can't do the speed bump trick. I need to pick up a larger pair of Chanell Locks and give that a try. I had all the parts powder coated so I'll have to tape them or something to keep from marring the heck out of them.

...If any one else knopws an easier way...please let me know.

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One good technique I've used to grip parts that I don't want to scratch up (such as the piston on strut) is to wrap it with a thick piece of rubber such as a rubber bungee cord, and then grip the outside of the rubber with the channel locks. If the rubber and the part are sticky enough you should get enough grip to hold it in place without ruining your finish. Well I haven't actually tried it on powder coating but it worked great on the strut piston which is maybe chrome or some kind of polished metal. Good luck

MIchael

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One good technique I've used to grip parts that I don't want to scratch up (such as the piston on strut) is to wrap it with a thick piece of rubber such as a rubber bungee cord, and then grip the outside of the rubber with the channel locks. If the rubber and the part are sticky enough you should get enough grip to hold it in place without ruining your finish. Well I haven't actually tried it on powder coating but it worked great on the strut piston which is maybe chrome or some kind of polished metal. Good luck

MIchael

Good idea, I'll defintley give that a try over tape.

Aren't you in the Indy area MPerdue? I hope to make a meeting soon; I've had the car on stands and going through each system trying to get her road worthy.

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