Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
DatsunZsRule

Thinking of installing an 81-83 5 speed

Recommended Posts

dogma, it is self adjusting, period. (of course for the stock clutch and probably at least until you've changed things so much that the rod from the slave can't push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch)

I haven't heard of anyone who reported having a problem in that regard, but that doesn't mean it hasn't/can't happen. If you stick with using ALL PARTS from the same year (p/p, disc, fork, t/o brg collar, slave) you will virtually eliminate the possiblity of a problem, start mixing things up and anything is possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dogma, it is self adjusting, period. (of course for the stock clutch and probably at least until you've changed things so much that the rod from the slave can't push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch)

That's a bit of an oversimplification. If you have the "self adjusting" unit, you're stuck with wherever that engagement happens to be. I guess you could adjust in a whole bunch of free play or really drastically change the pedal height. If that is good enough for you then more power to ya. How many cars have you jumped in the first time and been less than happy with where the clutch engages? For me that's most of the time. By using the manual adjuster, you can change the point of engagement to suit your preference. Is that worthwhile? Depends on who you are. For me, I think it's very worthwhile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The adjustment at the slave sets the amount of gap between the p/p-disc and the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged. That is one place to adjust point of engagement, but IMO it's not the right place to do it. (you of course are welcome to do it in whatever manner floats your boat)

The only other place to make an adjustment IS at the master cylinder/pedal interface. I always set the slave adjustment (my early 72) per factory spec. so that there is positive disengagement but not an excessive gap, and then adjust the pedal height so that the clutch engages when the pedal is about 1" above the floor which is where I like it to be. This method works equally well for a 73 with the "self-adjusting" slave/fork. (I've owned one and used this method)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I JUST (last night) installed a 79' 280ZX 5-speed tranni into my 70'Z.

I used my original clutch, pressure plate, T.O. bearing collar and resurfaced flywheel. I also used the original fork (with hole for adjustable push rod) and a new T.O.Bearing.

I have an R-200 Diff w/ ZX C.V.axles so I used my original drive line.

Every thing bolts right up and works great. No adaptors or special parts.

The tranni was $250. The Diff is a posi locker out of a 300ZX. The cross member was from my 70, The diff mount is from an 82' ZX.

LOVIN IT! especially with gas prices being what they are right now.

Dave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The adjustment at the slave sets the amount of gap between the p/p-disc and the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged. That is one place to adjust point of engagement, but IMO it's not the right place to do it. (you of course are welcome to do it in whatever manner floats your boat)

The only other place to make an adjustment IS at the master cylinder/pedal interface. I always set the slave adjustment (my early 72) per factory spec. so that there is positive disengagement but not an excessive gap, and then adjust the pedal height so that the clutch engages when the pedal is about 1" above the floor which is where I like it to be. This method works equally well for a 73 with the "self-adjusting" slave/fork. (I've owned one and used this method)

Well I guess we have to agree to disagree. I like to have the brake and clutch pedal heights basically the same, and then be able to adjust the engagement of the clutch independently of the pedal height. It's just one more degree of tunability, and it's definitely not the "wrong" way to do it as you stated above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey wait a minute, Dave.

you do mechanicals, too!:classic:

what about the shifter hole?

did you have to do any cutting for clearance in 5th gear?

this swap is in my future plans ('A' to 'B' first) and since i've read about the clearance issue, i bought the nismo 'S' shaped shifter from Courtesy just in case

thanks,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know about dave, but I cut the shifter right above the pivot then welded it back on so that it faced straight back, then bent it 90 degrees so that it came straight through the middle of the shifter hole. If you want to run the stock inner shift boot don't cut the metal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hey wait a minute, Dave.

you do mechanicals, too!:classic:

what about the shifter hole?

did you have to do any cutting for clearance in 5th gear?

this swap is in my future plans ('A' to 'B' first) and since i've read about the clearance issue, i bought the nismo 'S' shaped shifter from Courtesy just in case

thanks,

I AM a Mechanic, not nearly as qualified or certified as JZM but still, a mechanic.

The shift hole was already cut for the previous tranni (72' 4-speed) after my original dropped a couple bearings out of the drain hole.

In a rounded shape, cut only 5/8" forward of the present hole. Your rubber boot should still catch most of the lip and be usable.

I am a mechanic, electrician, I do electronics and am a 12 volt specialist with 18 years under my belt. I also do construction and can practically build a house from the ground up if need be. I do minor bodywork, upholstery, electrical, mechanical, suspension and brakes, including rebuilding almost every part that has ever been pulled on my car.

Including the new gear reduction starter that I just rebuilt and put in my Z at the same time as the 5-speed install.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea Jon,

Thanks.

i was trying to avoid any cutting of the shifter tunnel with the purchase of the comp shifter (i get a little queasy when the words 'cut the Z' are mentioned).

i had read that the comp shifter eliminated that necessity so hopefully i won't have to. just curious since Dave didn't mention it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you don't have to convince me, Dave!

i've seen your work and i knew that only a real 'technician' could do it that well!!

the comp shifter brings the top of the shifter back a couple of inches and the initial incline should allow it to clear the tunnel without cutting. this is strictly by eyeball, and seems to be confirmed by other postings. i hope, i hope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so Dave you paid $250 for your 5 speed, and I paid $300 for my 77 5-speed...

I just found a guy selling a 83 L6 with the 83 5 speed attached selling the total lot for $150!!!! I think I'm going to get it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The first one I bought was only $77 and it came with the driveline, shifter, fork and throw-out bearing. After installing it and removing it 4 times in two days, I finally got to hear the bearings grinding and found out that It had a BAD main bearing.

The 5-speed that I found just down the road from me was the only one within 50 miles that was'nt $400+ dollars.

Snag that motor and trans for $150. you won't find a deal like that for a long time to come. Don't think, just do it! :stupid:

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pull n save had $30 transmissions a couple weeks ago. I couldn't pass that up, I would have bought 2 but I let a friend know and he got the other.

I'm not worried about replacing bearings if needed. They are pretty easy to work on with the right service manual and common sense.

For the late 5 spd you can modify it for an actual short throw shifter.

late5spdalteredpivot.jpg

Then cut, drill and tap for a stud in a 4 spd shifter.

spacedshortthrow.jpg

This mod shortens the actual throw on a stock length shfiter from 5.5" to 3" 1-2 shift.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just "inherited" a 1980zx non turbo. Is there anything good about this car's drive train to update my 1972 240z? or should I just junk it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just "inherited" a 1980zx non turbo. Is there anything good about this car's drive train to update my 1972 240z? or should I just junk it.
The distributor and electronic ignition is good to have, I have that system on my '71. Plus many people prefer the 5 speeds from these over the earlier units from the 280Z. The engine is a typical L28 with dished pistons and a round port head. Not bad, but nothing special. Not sure which diff that would have come with - R180 or R200.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a big fan of that 5 speed. It's got a much closer 2-3 ratio than the earlier 5 speeds, and yet the 5th gear is a bit longer (taller) than the later 81-83. I'd suggest pairing it up with a 3.90 diffy, or a 4.11 if you like revs:)

I have the '82 and 4.11 in my '73 and it's a lot of fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm a big fan of that 5 speed. It's got a much closer 2-3 ratio than the earlier 5 speeds, and yet the 5th gear is a bit longer (taller) than the later 81-83. I'd suggest pairing it up with a 3.90 diffy, or a 4.11 if you like revs:)

I have the '82 and 4.11 in my '73 and it's a lot of fun.

By installing the 3:90 diff and the 79' 5-speed, I ended up with over 390 miles to the tank on our trip to Anaheim, CA from Washington State. Thats over 25 miles per gallon. Not bad for 153,000 miles on the 36 year old engine.

We had a blast and WILL DO IT AGAIN NEXT YEAR!!!

I met a lot of great people and customers.

Dave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm a big fan of that 5 speed. It's got a much closer 2-3 ratio than the earlier 5 speeds, and yet the 5th gear is a bit longer (taller) than the later 81-83. I'd suggest pairing it up with a 3.90 diffy, or a 4.11 if you like revs:)

I have the '82 and 4.11 in my '73 and it's a lot of fun.

Am I thinking of this correctly?

When I think of a "taller gear" - I'm thinking of lower numerical ratio.... ie. a 3.364:1 is a taller gear than a 3.7:1 - right?

If so - then the 81/83 transmission has a 0.745:1 fifth gear, and the 80 transmission has 0.773:1 fifth gear. So fifth gear in the 80 transmission is NOT taller than the 81/83.

I'd leave the stock 3.364 in the car if you like lower rev.'s and better highway fuel mileage, or put the 3.545 R180 out of the 80ZX in.... for a little better off the line performance and still acceptable highway mileage.

FWIW,

Carl

Carl Beck

Clearwater, FL USA

http://ZHome.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can also make a poor man's close ratio 5 speed by replacing the .745 5th gear in the NA 81-83 ZX tranny with the .86 5th gear set out of a truck transmission. Nissan part number 32310-58S54.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.