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restoration


Dans240z

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Well, spring is just around the corner here in Pittsburgh, most of the snow is gone. I haven't touched my car lately because of the weather but, now that the weather is better i can get working. I am going to be doing a total restoration and I want to know the best way about doing this. I have some books but I want to know what you guys think. One of the most important things to me is that the whole car be repainted including the interior. I will eventually lift the engine out. In what order should things be done?

I need some direction!!!

Dan

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Dan,

Start by keeping a daily log. A notebook. In it write the items you removed on that day and maybe some notes on how they went. This will also help you when you start putting things back together by reversing the order it was taken apart. Pictures speak a thousand words so take plenty of them. Go to Office Max and buy some tags (I got the ones with the little string attached) use these to mark and identify electrical connections. Also buy a couple of boxes of zip lock baggies, assorted sizes. When you remove screws and parts put them in the baggie and write on the bag what the contents went to. In your note book you can also keep a log of places you found rust that will need attention at a later time.

Start buying parts now. Like seals, gaskets, and rubber. This way it won't all hit you at one time.

How much work are you going to be doing yourself? Bodywork, engine, welding, etc..

If you are planning to do any work on the undercarrage get a rotisserie.

Also have a dry place to store the parts you remove. I built a bunch of shelves in my basement.

What is your tool situation? Do you have a sandblasting cabinet?

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Dan, Ed is absolutely right on all he said. The log book and photos are so important as you will forget certain things as time passes. Plus, it will serve as a record of what you've done during your resto.

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Along with all the previous information, one of the most important is to increase the checking account balance, as a full, thorough, correct and complete resto on an early Z car is not cheap. Take your time and do it right the first time. If it's the car in your avatar, it looks like you're starting out with a nice vehicle, which we all know will make the resto job more pleasurable.

FWIW

Vicky

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I am in the reassembly mode at present and what has been already said is vary important. Plus I recommend that you take the car to the car wash or some place that has a pressure washer and wash the suspention front and rear as well as the trans area . Clean the engine bay as well , this will make the job so much more pleasureable. Take detailed photos of the engine bay , showing the wireing and fuel lines and such . When you remove the different items like the heater , box it up and include all the fastiners and label the box as to its contents. Sharpies work vary well here and on the Zip-lock bags. If you are going to do a true restoration and not just a redo as I have done . Pull the engine and trans as a unit . Then you will be able to get at the engine bay and remove all the wireing and brake and fuel lines when you are ready for that. This is what I did and it worked out for me . I then removed the interior and all the wireing , followed by the glass hatch and doors. Scribe around the hinges before removing them , helps with reassembly. I dident remove my suspention as the front end had been rebuilt already . That and I am not doing a restoration . From this point the rotissery and a engine stand are a must , if you are doing a serious restoration. :rambo:

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Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes it is the car in the avitar and its worst fault is the many layers of paint. I have read the wick humble book about 100 times and I own the service manual. I really want to do most of the body work, and though there is not a lot of rust, I find more all the time. I dont want to paint the car so I am willing to spend lots of money on this. I worry the most about electronics and the interior. Working with glue and vinyl seems hard to do a professional job.

Would it be reasonible if I sand blasted the car (making sure to primer finished parts to avoid rust), did body work and then had the car painted?

Dan

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Would it be reasonible if I sand blasted the car (making sure to primer finished parts to avoid rust), did body work and then had the car painted?

Dan

Before you do anything to the body talk to the shop that is going to paint your car. Most likely they will not recommend you sand blast because it will distort the sheet metal. They might also not want you to use a primer that will not be compatible with the paint that they are using. If your trying to save yourself some cash, just ask your painter what you could do.

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So before I do any body work at all, I should find a good place to do the paint and see what they say?

By the way, how much power should an L28 with triple webers and a fairly agressive cam make. This is what was on my car, but it does not run and I am just interested to see about how much power it could make.

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When you say restore do you really mean a nice car that you are going to be driving on a daily or nearly so? If this is the case , this is a whole different thing. I posted eairlier and failed to mention that I have had my car on a set of dollies all the while I have been working on it . I found that they were a great investment . I am cramped for space in our 2 car garage and we park our daily driver as will as the Z in there . With the dollies I can pull the car sidewaise or turn it end for end in the garage and then shove it back to the side and pull the Camery in. Harbor freight have them on sale right now cheap also an engine stand for only $39.99 that will hold a 1000lb engine . Same price for a great floor jack , full size with larger wheels . They have jack stands on sale all the time these you will also need . If you dont do the rotissery thing. If you are thinking of triples and a L-28 in a 240 , forget the restoration , and build a driver. :rambo:

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So before I do any body work at all, I should find a good place to do the paint and see what they say?.
.

YES, advice is free.

By the way, how much power should an L28 with triple webers and a fairly agressive cam make. This is what was on my car, but it does not run and I am just interested to see about how much power it could make.

150-200 more or less.

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Don't just pick some schmoe out of the phone book to paint your car. If you don't already have a paint and body guy, the best way is to attend a few good cars shows and/or cruise in's around your area. Check out some of the cars and ask the owners where, who and if they had a good experience with their paint guy.

FWIW

Vicky

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