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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on October 19

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About Captain Obvious

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    Philadelphia, PA

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My Z Cars

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    Z fanatic but no car right now
  1. Info on BCDD - Boost Controlled Deceleration Device

    That's good to hear. The weather has been beautiful here in eastern PA as well. My 280 is running better than I can ever remember, and I've literally been coming up excuses to go out somewhere for whatever! Time's a tickin' and there won't be too many Z days left before the salt spreading starts!
  2. Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    And you need to do that. Because if you don't, you'll just spend all winter wondering! Good luck, and may the wind be at your back!
  3. Heater Core Alternative - Escort Core into 260/280

    No problem. Glad to help. I've been running this alternative now for a couple months now and I couldn't be happier!! Give me a little bit and I'll get the pics back up again as soon as I get a chance to upload them.
  4. Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z

    "Here is the offending, evil oil pump shim firmly bent into position." Beautiful. Let's not go through that again!!
  5. 1973 Rebuild

    I'm mobile and can't post pics right now, but basically until 76, they used a single piston rear wheel cylinder where the one and only piston pushed against one shoe, and the whole wheel cylinder slid (floated) on the backing plate and pushed against the other shoe. Worked well enough until the cylinder froze in the slot. Then in 77 they changed to a fixed location cylinder with two opposing pistons. Same breaking performance (when everything is working as intended), but I consider the non-floating design much more reliable. I believe the chances that everything works as intended much higher for the later design. Wheer cylinder replacement cost is also an order of magnitude cheaper last time I looked. Not to turn this into a sales pitch, but I've got a set of the new design backing plates and stuff for the upgrade available. Easy purchase plan can be worked out when you come over to press your steering rack bearings.
  6. 1973 Rebuild

    I don't remember if you've talked about what your plan is with the rear brakes, but if you aren't going for a rear disk conversion and are planning to keep stock drums in the back... While you are doing the rear wheel bearings, you might consider upgrading to the newer 77-78 style two piston rear wheel cylinder design instead of the earlier floating cylinder design? You need the newer backing plate which requires taking the stub axles out. But if you're doing bearings and will have the axles out anyway...
  7. The Rusty Roller Coaster. Unusual Good News!

    Norton says any welding other than resistance welding is a no-no. From the info sheet I found here: http://www.nortonabrasives.com/sites/sga.na.com/files/document/Posters-BestPractices-24x36-NortonAA-8263-MB.pdf "Clamp or screw panel in place for a traditional bond. All products listed have glass beads in them to prevent over clamping. You can use a resistance welder to weld through the Acrylic Metal Bonders while they are in a wet or cured state. You can also use a resistance welder with the Epoxy Panel Bonder, but only while it is in a wet state. If you are using any other type of welder, do NOT weld through any adhesive. Also do NOT weld within 2" of the adhesive." And since I've never, ever, ever, never, ever done anything not recommended by the manufacturer. And always, always, always RTFM and do exactly to the letter what they recommend... I would have to advise against welding.
  8. 1977 280Z with 81-83 engine, persistent 2000-2500rpm high idle

    Yup. The way you had it (not) blocked off before was definitely a problem. If you were to blow into the nipple on that last block you took off, that air would come right out the center hole back atcha. It's not blocked off. And yes, now that you have taken that other block piece off, you should be able to slap a simple plate across the hole on the underside of the intake manifold to block the flow. Remove the hose and cap the nipple that used to feed the BCDD and you should be on to the next issue. If you are thinking you want to put the BCDD back on at some point, here's a recent thread that talked a bunch about the guts inside. Might help with getting yours back into usable condition: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/58748-info-on-bcdd-boost-controlled-deceleration-device/ I've never messed with one, but I'm assuming the basic design for the newer one you have is very similar to the older ones pictured in that thread. I suspect yours is a little simpler and doesn't have an altitude corrector bellows on the underside (unless your car came from CA). Good luck with the rest of the project!
  9. Boiled Jumbos

    And the first word is "Explosive", right. I already know more than I wanted to...
  10. Info on BCDD - Boost Controlled Deceleration Device

    Cool. Glad you're out of the woods. Here's my new tag line. I was talking about carbs at first, but it applies to lots of other things as well! "I've found that surgically clean and actually assembled correctly goes a long way to fixing a lot of issues! Go figure!! "
  11. 1977 280Z with 81-83 engine, persistent 2000-2500rpm high idle

    Yup, I think some (or most) of the high idle issue is due to the BCDD blockoff method. I've never messed with the ZX under the manifold style, but as Zed Head mentioned, you might be able to take off that last other plate that's under there and then maybe use a simple plate to block off the holes. I don't know what (if anything) else that remaining slab does, but you would definitely have to cap the hose connections that go to it if you removed it. That option doesn't exist on the earlier design with the BCDD on the underside of the throttle body. There's no way to ever use just a simple plate because the vacuum ports and valve seats are integral to the throttle body casting itself. You might have a simpler option with the later version you have. Good luck. And here's to hoping solving the problem is as easy as it seems at this point!
  12. 1977 280Z with 81-83 engine, persistent 2000-2500rpm high idle

    It's not that simple. You can't just remove the guts and slap on a simple plate. When you remove the guts, you remove the valve that seals one side to the other. I whipped this up to hopefully illustrate the issue:
  13. The Rusty Roller Coaster. Unusual Good News!

    New product!! The marketing dept. sees Lightweight Fiberglass Replacement Floor Pans!! You've got the mold, right??
  14. 1977 280Z with 81-83 engine, persistent 2000-2500rpm high idle

    I suspect you didn't block off the BCDD correctly. As siteunseen alluded to above, it's not as simple as removing it and slapping a flat plate in it's place. I've not looked into the details, but I suspect the later ones under the manifold are pretty much the same concept as the earlier ones on the bottom of the throttle body. Do you have any pics of what you did there?
  15. Boiled Jumbos

    Haha!! What happened? No, wait. Nevermind. Forget I asked... I don't want to know!
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