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Captain Obvious

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Captain Obvious last won the day on March 21

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About Captain Obvious

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    Philadelphia, PA


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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  1. Intake manifold paint removal

    We will never speak of this again.
  2. Q: Second Ring Gap

    I have no experience with ring gaps, so I don't have any input into your original question, but I am curious... You keep mentioning the average center of the range for the specs of the gaps. Is that your target for when you put rings on? Why don't you aim for the narrow end of the spec? I mean, as the cylinder walls and ring wears, won't that gap just get wider over time? That's about a six thousandth wide spec... Seems like aiming towards the narrow end of the spec would be a better place to shoot for than the center. Like I said, I have no expertise here, but just wondering.
  3. Intake manifold paint removal

    LOL! I opened the thread at the newest post (yours above) and that way I don't have to punish myself with that pic again. The methylene chloride based paint removers will eat anything the PO put on there. Even if it's powder coat. Of course, bead blasting would probably be faster.
  4. Intake manifold paint removal

    Ewwwww. I'm really sorry, but I'm not going to open this post ever again. Not even the tastefully done artful presentation make that thing pretty!
  5. Green connector unplugged.

    As previously mentioned, it's for the BCDD. The BCDD is active when there is no signal supplied to it. so with that connector disconnected, the BCDD will be active at all times. Of course, depending on how you have the BCDD mechanically adjusted, there might not be any difference whether it's activated or not.
  6. 510 Su's

    That sure looks like a ported vacuum source to me. My assumption is that the little brass dot above the "F" is the plug they pressed in after they drilled into the carb throat. It's actually convenient to be on the bottom, right? Shorter line over to the distributor.
  7. Cleaned pistons and other parts

    I'm thinking the previous builder screwed up. I agree that it could have been a units issue. Or maybe his math was just questionable. Math mistakes can crop up in the strangest places...
  8. Need a rear bearing spacer!!!

    I wouldn't be so sure that the "gouged" area of the spacer is the only part they messed with. There are clearly grinding (looks like belt sander?) marks on the remainder of the face of that distance piece. I'm thinking they were shortening it and they slipped once causing that gouge. It looks to me like there's a heat-blued mark around the entire circumference, and I wouldn't be surprised if they took material off the entire face. They just took a lot more in one area than another. And... The ends of that thing need to be SQUARE. You could have a small area of missing material, but the overall vast majority of that face needs to perpendicular to the center line through the cylinder. You could check the length of that messed up piece with a micrometer to see if they shortened it. If it's a "B", it should be between 2.067 and 2.069 inches long. And if you get even more energetic, you could check it a couple different places to see if the end(s) are square. However, all of that is academic if you are replacing it (and I think that's the right decision). As for the torque of the stub axle nut, my guess is it's what crashed one of the Mars landers... A units problem. The torque spec in the FSM is 181-239 foot-pounds. But the spec is ALSO 25-33 kilogram-meters. My guess is that they (or Chilton's) screwed up the units. Torque it till your eyes bug out. If the bearings are properly seated and the distance piece is the correct one for the strut housing, the bearings should see little to no load as a result of the high torque. If everything is in the right spot, those bearing balls are floating in the grooves of the races.
  9. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Beautiful. Clean enough to eat off! Did you replace the little rubber bumper for the brake switch? Mine turned to dust one night and my brake lights stayed on (even with the car parked and shut off).
  10. 510 Su's

    To further what Blue said about the vacuum source... The Z's all used a "ported" vacuum source, but I do not know what the 510 used. Since it's so similar in lots of ways to the Z, I would assume it wants a ported source as well, but I guess there's no guarantees. Here's an old thread that discussed the differences and advantages, etc of the two: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41935-ignition-timing-theory-port-source-vs-manifold-source/ As an aside... I Teed in a vacuum gauge to my Z and routed the line to the interior. I drove around for a while like that with the gauge attached. It did exactly what I expected: Zero vacuum at idle. Narrow peak of highest vacuum just off idle at light cruise. About 20 inches hg at the sweet spot pedal position at 4000 RPM. Near zero vacuum at WOT.
  11. Imagine that!

    I knew I couldn't possibly be the only X-Files fan! And I'm with you... I'm so glad they're back. There have been two really campy episodes lately with lots of references to other things like that. The one with the automation, and the one a couple weeks back where they were talking about the Mandela Effect. That one made me laugh out loud a couple times. Thanks for pulling me off "The Island of Misfit References". I've dropped a couple lately that have stayed dropped. I think I'm getting a little too obscure.
  12. Imagine that!

    Haha! No, it wasn't quite that bad. Old friends as in I hadn't seen anything from them in quite some time. But after a long time away they're back.
  13. Need a rear bearing spacer!!!

    Woof... If it's not one thing, it's another! Is this the same shop that bent your control arm? All else fails, I can probably make a new spacer. I can certainly shorten one up if you find you can get the longer length but need something shorter.
  14. Imagine that!

    Some old friends of mine recently used these guys after a night out for some sushi:
  15. Imagine that!

    It's true.