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Showing results for tags 'trailer'.
Found 4 results
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I will soon be making a trip to Oregon to pick up my Z for a 250 mile trailer adventure. Unfortunately there's snow in the forecast, so, it might not be as soon as I want. Anyway, I've already found a few threads on this subject, but, nothing explains the proper procedures to do this correctly. Do any of you have photos or advice for the trip? I'm planning to rent a U-Haul car-hauler. Here's one of the threads I found: I did see a few tips: Nose first Use the provided tire-straps in the front Cross brace the rear end with ratchet tie-downs I'm a bit concerned there will be some gravel on the road so I'm not too excited about winter towing. But, if I may not have a choice at this time of year. Does anyone know if it's a good idea to put a car cover on before making the trip? I would think the wind would cause some paint scratches. I'm not too excited about rain, if I run into it along the way. Appreciate any advice you guys might be able to help me with. Thanks! Mike -
I'm hauling a 240Z on the dual axle car transport trailer. Someone that's familiar with those might help me out with loading tips. Should I drive it on nose first or back it on? Is there anything I should take caution with besides the obvious? Car has no spoiler or front air dam. 195/70-14s stock wheels and tires. It's going to be a close fit I can tell already. Thanks for any advice. Cliff -
Just posting for those who might be looking for an early series car. This 1973 Datsun 240Z is a largely stock, matching-numbers example that was thoroughly restored in 2006 by the previous owner. The car has been repainted in its original silver and benefits from rebuilt suspension and a new A/C system. The seller purchased the car from the second owner in Florida, and promptly drove the car 2300 miles back to Winnipeg, Canada without issue. The restoration left the original interior intact, and the seller is a knowledgeable collector who says typical wear items on 240Z’s have been addressed. The A/C blows cold and the car is said to handle beautifully on proper sized tires with new front struts and rebuilt rear suspension. This an unmodified Z that comes with a large history file from its two previous long-term owners. Many detail shots are included in the gallery at BAT. Paint finish is now ten years old and shows a handful of small stone chips on the nose, but remains very good overall. We like the OEM hubcaps and absence of dealer added side trim. The seller says the car has never rusted and illustrates the point by describing a recent rebuild of the rear suspension with OEM bushings and shocks that was a breeze as even the smallest 10mm bolts were easily removed with a quarter inch ratchet. Other notable details include Vredestein Sprint tires and factory stacked exit muffler. The seller says the interior is original including good upholstery, carpets, and crack free dashboard. All gauges, lights and instruments work well, and factory A/C blows cold following a full system replacement with all new OEM components. The only non-original item to be found inside is a later ’90s Pioneer cassette deck, but its twin dial design looks better than more modern LED units. The rear hatch view looks clean, including in the corners, and several chassis shots viewable below show that the car retains all of its factory undercoating with no visible rust. Front struts were replaced just prior to the seller’s purchase in April of 2011. Completely unmodified apart from a thermostatically controlled electric auxiliary cooling fan, the original engine is said to start easily, idle smoothly, and pull hard throughout the rev range without any unusual noises or smoke. The electric fan was added to better cope with Florida heat, though reportedly it now only comes on in very hot weather when the A/C is on. The car has twin fuel pumps which help hot starts, and properly tuned SU carbs have never been an issue under the seller’s ownership. The seller has a large collection and is primarily drawn to original, low-mileage survivors. He says the the 150k miles on this example is a bit higher than he normally likes, but the unmodified and original condition drew him to the car. The initial 2,300 miles back home to Winnipeg were not out of character for the seller, who drives every car he owns and says this Z is reliable and smooth. Included documentation dates from new and takes up four large envelopes. Be sure to check out the full photo gallery here on Flickr. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-6-2/
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I want to use a tow dolly to move a rolling 73 240Z parts car with relatively little structure rust about 20 miles. The car has no engine and the driveshaft and transmission are out. With the car not running how do I get the car up on the dolly? Can I use a come along? Can I jack it up and put it on two jack stands behind the front wheels on the tension control rod mounts and back the dolly underneath the front wheels that way? I wonder if the jack stands would get in the way of the dolly if I do that. I have read other threads and info on the net, no one says how you do this so it must be either really easy or impossible. There is no bumper so I can't use a tow bar I don't think. U-Haul has the idea that the towing car should weigh at least 750 lbs more than the towed car. I will be towing a 2000 lb 240Z with a 2200 lb car, has anyone had a problem with the relative weight like that? Thanks for any ideas.
