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Found 11 results

  1. I'll be swapping my leaking original radiator out for a shiny new Champion 2 row aluminum radiator (EC634) first thing tomorrow and I realized I don't have a drop of extra coolant around. Does anyone know from experience that this radiator will require more coolant than the stock radiator holds? Its odd I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Assuming I don't lose a drop of the almost new coolant while draining/refilling, should I 'make a trip to town' tonight to buy a jug so I'll have enough to finish the job tomorrow?
  2. Hey everyone I have a quick question as to which radiator I should get. I just went in to have my tires changed and long story short my radiator got damaged and they are going to get me a new one. They quoted me a new radiator at 500$ so I started looking around. I saw 3 different radiators. The first I saw was the Champion radiator. It's a 3 core polished aluminum radiator for 280$, its core is 16 1/8" tall and 24 1/2" wide and its overall dimensions are 23" tall and 26 3/4" wide. (Unknown weight) The next was from ZCarSource, it was also a aluminum 3 core. The website didn't specify any specs so when I called and asked about it they said it was 30" tall and 40" wide(I assume that's overall) at 20lbs, this one costs 480$. The last radiator is from MSA and is also a aluminum 3 core radiator. Its core is 16.5" tall and 23.75" wide and overall 23" tall and 26 3/4" wide at 11.4lbs. It is currently out of stock though. I searched around and saw folks liked the MSA radiator, but overall thought a upgraded radiator wasn't needed, seeing as it's of no exspense to me I might as well get whichever is best so I'd appreciate your input. So of these radiators, or other ones, which would you guys recommend? Thanks Noah M
  3. My 78 is getting too hot. I've done a few things to it since it was on the road, so keep in mind that I'm unable to drive it right now, only idle it when backed out of my basement garage. Here's what's been done to it since I drove it a few years ago that relate to the cooling system: -Deleted the coolant bypass line just to tidy up the engine bay. I plugged the thermostat housing and plugged the small coolant line that comes off the heater hose hard line by the #1 spark plug. -Tested the 180* thermostat in boiling water and drilled out the tiny bypass hole in the thermostat just a wee bit after reading about others who had bypassed the coolant line attached to the manifold. -Pulled the radiator out, flushed the not-so-cruddy mixture out of it, then poured in a gallon of water with a measured bit of muratic acid and shook/rotated/flipped/worked the mixture throughout the radiator to hopefully clean the passages. After a few minutes, I emptied, rinsed like mad and stuck it back in the car and filled with coolant/water mix. It's as full as it can get without lifting the front of the car and topping the radiator off. No air pockets, as far as I can tell. I ran the heater a few times to circulate it through the heater core and squeezed the hoses while topping it off. New Sankei radiator cap. -Replaced the aged water pump with a new Asin water pump with the cast propeller, and not the thin blade propeller found in some cheaper aftermarket units. Now, all of that above was done before I realized any overheating problems. I figured most of this was good practice on an old car and it makes me a little less nervous about a long trip with the wife with me if certain parts are replaced. I don't want to swap a water pump in a parking lot somewhere. This car always seems to take quite a while to warm up. (been that way since I bought it 4 years ago from original owner who did not tinker with it at all) Anyway, as it idles and (very) slowly reaches operating temp, the gauge continues to rise. Before I parked it in the basement a few years ago, it would barely get past the middle on the temp gauge in hot weather. Now, idling, it gets to 3/4+ before I shut it off, open the hood and let it cool down. Something I've done has affected it. Today when I shut it off at the 3/4 point, there was a bubbling sound coming from the thermostat housing and the coolant overflow was at the lower level line. I don't think I've ever seen the coolant overflow bottle with any coolant in it since I've had it. I thought I read enough from others who deleted those coolant bypass lines with no problems, but maybe that's causing this to happen. Or, did I unclog something in the radiator with the acid /water flush?
  4. My aluminum three row doesn't have a draincock installed (???). Rather than pulling the lower radiator hose every time, and making a mess, I'd like to install a draincock. I figure this will involve drilling / tapping which is fine, but I foresee tiny shards of aluminum making their way downstream. Suggestions?
  5. Hi All, First off I apologize if this topic has been covered elsewhere. I though I've researched the forum good enough, but I have not been able to find good discussion that would cover this topic extensively. If there is a threat out there that you know of, please point me to it. The problem My 280Z radiator is leaking slowly at the very top. It does not leak when sitting in the garage, but shortly after I fire it up is sips and splatters the coolant in the engine bay and on the hood. I'm looking at replacing it with an aluminum radiator. I plan to use the car form spring to fall, no winter driving. Mostly for driving to and form work but also for weekend SCCA autocross type events. I also would love to be able to take the car to the track even and not be afraid that it will overheat or brake mechanically on me. That's my ultimate goal. I have done one autocross even this year and the car had no overheating problems. However after discovering the leak I have not take the car anywhere outside town :/ I typically have to drive 1-5 hours to get autocross or track event, so I need to be able to do that as well in this car. The options From what I could find online, there is couple of options on MSA website: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-6967 three row http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15e/16-7017 cross flow (expensive!) Here is the Champion, 3 row option: http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-280z-radiator-1975-1978 Here is the Koyo cross flow (2 row I think): http://www.koyoradracing.com/news.asp?id=61 Here is abalcdragon options, however I think it is not aluminum: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/ZR/full.aspx?page=51 Anybody has any other piston to consider that they had food experience with? Did anybody worked with any of the options above? I also would like to consider to install electrical fan instead of the stock engine driven one. MSA, Champion, and blackdragon have options for electric fan kits. Did anybody used them in their installation? What about the the fan shroud if I change it to electrical? From MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15p/16-7052 From Champion: http://www.championradiators.com/cooling_fans Another thing I need to consider is new water pump or at least water pump gasket since mine is leaking. I have been reading that the original water pumps give up easily, so since "I'm there" and have good access I would like o replace it. MSA has a water pump for about $50, which seams reasonable. Any thoughts on that?
  6. I have a 240z which actually has a Champion 3 row radiator and the original plastic fan blade. When i am stuck in traffic the temperature in the temp gauge rises to 3/4. I have been recommended to get a Fan Shroud for this radiator as i am looking forward to install a Vintage Gen II Mini evaporator and Sanden 508 compressor. What kind of fan shroud shall i purchase for this radiator? Plastic or metal? Which Brand? any other recommendations? Been looking around and cant find any that could possibly fit. Anyone??
  7. Picked up a Koyo aluminum radiator for my S30. Got down to installation and ran into a problem - the fan makes contact with the passenger side of the radiator (the cooling tank portion of the rad - see attached picture). After unleashing a few f-bombs, got down to trying to figure this out. Upon closer inspection it looks like the PO had installed a 8 fin fan from a 260z and it looks like the clearance between the fan and radiator are impacted by this (I hope - it appears the 260z fan extends forward further than the stock 240z fan). I've gone ahead and ordered a new fan in hopes that this solves my problem however, unless I'm missing something it looks like Koyo has made a poor design choice here .. why would they not design to have the fan fully behind the cooling fins vs. a portion over the side cooling tank. Are there any S30 owners who have installed the Koyo and run into something similar? I'd like to rule out any other possibilities I'm missing. If the correct stock fan gives me some additional clearance it still looks like I'll have minimal room between the fan and radiator (<1/2"). Pictures attached. New fan arrives Tuesday so hopefully this works and I'll have time during the week to install. PS. How do you get a profile pic up on this site? (does it really have to be a public picture from a website? -TD
  8. hey guys so i just jumpstarted my car (cuz i left the lights on...otherwise the car's been running great recently) it was after that that i noticed i was overheating (like almost in the red) i checked out the radiator while it was still running and the fan wasn't running. is it supposed to turn on while the car is running or just once the engine is turned off? it looks like everything else works (no leaks or anything) but i havent checked out the thermostat or anything like that cuz i dont really know anything about how those work...womp womp... anybody got an idea of where to begin looking for the problem? oh also the temp gauge rises mostly when im idling but once i drive around a bit it tends to go down a little bit but not very much
  9. Hello everybody, I removed my radiator hose/ water temperature sensor wire clip, recently hoping that someone out there with Z part-reproducing experience might be able to reproduce it. I know these tend to get brittle over time and snap, but mine is surprisingly pliable. I know that nissan makes a different clip to replace it, but for the sake of originality, it might be worth reproducing- especially after seeing some interest on another thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?28549-where-can-i-get-these&highlight=wire+clamp This is the new one nissan currently makes (got image off ebay):
  10. Hey All, I need opinions and checking on my conservatism. I just test fitted a new Aluminium radiator one of the many from ebay, Champion 3 row. I had originally purchased a two row as I was worried about the fan, but they did not have any and sent me a 3 row instead. After test fitting here are the pictures. I think the fan is way too close for my liking if the engine happens to lurch forward but I wanted to hear from you guys. It looks like my cars radiator frame may not perfectly straight along with the radiator mounting flanges. At the top you can see I have around 25mm (1 inch) clearance on the fan blades but at the bottom this decreases to 13mm (1/2 inch). Is this far enough? I think not but wanted to hear from the guys in the know. This still does not include any rubber isolators which will reduce the gap a little but not much. Should I try hammering the radiator frame to see if I can improve the bottom clearance? As I bolt in and tightened up the radiator it looks like one of the flanges is bending backwards to match the contour of the support. Or is it time to return it? Or buy electric fans? Kinda wishing I had just paid the bit extra and got the koyo radiator at this point. This radiator is 3 inches wide and the old one used to be 2.5 inches. The old one didn't have any clearance problems. Any advice and help as always is greatly appreciated.
  11. The engine is all back together however I last the diagram on the path of these hose. Can anyone help? They come around the back of the L26 from the engine side (passenger) of the engine..
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