280~Master

I am running 134a

So I reversed the way the receiver/drier was facing and replaced the busted line with some steel braided line and recharged the system to see what would happen. Well to my suprise it worked. :eek: Not the coldest A/C I have ever felt but I got to ride around with the windows up today in 95 Degree weather with out breaking a sweat. So far so good, I would like to thank those who offered help in this time of need. Now to just tint the windows :devious:

Will, I am going to take you up on this offer sometime this week or first thing next week.

Inline Wish I had a manifold set. I put two cans in and it ran fine and got cold for about a minute and then it went POP. I am still wondering which way the drier should go. Should the outlet side of the drier be going to the intake hose of the evaporator? If so I did have this backwards while doing this. Should have checked on it first instead of trusting the way it was installed by the PO.

Its the dashpot and it helps the engine come to a softer idle when the foot is released off the throttle. Don't worry about it. It is probly bad by now so remove it and drive on. Not having it won't hurt anything.

Is there an A/C person that has some help for me?

I see the in and out on the drier. I am wondering how it goes on there. I did charge it from the low side. I know its the low due to my compressor saying SUC on one valve and DIS on the other valve. I ended up getting a charge on it but it went to about 100PSI and then POP goes the line headed into the evaporator right before the expansion valve. I am wondering if my expansion valve is broke. I did get cold air for about 1 minute or so before the line poped. Glad I have new extra high pressure steel braided lines for all this.

evryone loved it at my job today. We were all getting a kick out of it.

Ok I have the york dealer installed A/C system. Was wondering my receiver has in and out on the barbed tube ends. What way do I place it. Does the inside face the condencer and the outside face the evaporator or Does it go the other way around? The compresor pushes into the condencer and then out to the drier then out to the expanstion valve then into the evaporator then back to the compressor. Is this right? Another quick question. What would cause the system to hold to much presure? Like 100PSI instead of 25 to 30 PSI. untitled.bmp

This is in the funnybone and the only thing that should be taken serious in this section is the boobs thread..

My brake light on the tach is stuck in the on possition. I know it is the relay under the passenger seat that is bolted on the front left side. When I tap on it the light goes out. Does anyone have an extra in a parts car or a part number for this item or has anyone ever replaced this with a different type of relay? Thanks, John

240SX, I have a new fuel pump. Its alot louder than the hum of that. May have to raise the rear end up and take a look. Going to change the fluids any way this weekend. Hope I can find it. Got it narrowed down to half-shaft, Rear diff, or tranny.

Tom, I also said wow! thats what that mounting spot was for. Wish I could help but don't have one and I just seen one for the first time.

Where is the fill plugs on the transmition and the rear diff located at. I know they are up on top, but where abouts on top? I have a 4 speed and a R200 Diff. Going to due a big oil and lub change this weekend.

Wm e smith, Not trying to hi-jack your thread on your car, so sorry if I offend anyone. I did scan through this thread and took a look at what some advice has been. From what I can tell you have been chasing a fuel problem on the car. It’s hard to say what it is over the internet could be a fuel problem or and electrical problem. I see that when you run it, it will stall on you then start right back up. The question is will it start within 3 seconds or does it have to crank over for 10 seconds before it starts? I used to have a girlfriend that had one of these and worked on hers along with my 77 280. Here is my take on your car. You should write down some of the reasons that your car might do this and check them off your list as you eliminate each one of them. From what you described in this thread I would start with the fuel. \ 1st I would check the fuel lines and make sure they are nice and cleaned out. Blow them out with an air hose and I mean all of them. Start on the return line back to the tank, then blow backwards thru your fuel filter, take the hose off after you check valve and blow that line out, take the hose off the inlet to your fuel pump and blow that back into your tank. Just remember to take off your gas cap when you blow into the gas tank. Will cause pressure build up in take and fuel will squirt back out the hose and in your face. 2nd pull your fuel pump and clean the inlet screen that is inside of the inlet. 3rd go to NAPA and buy 2 foot of ½ inch fuel hose along with an inline fuel filter NAPA part# NAPA GOLD 3299. http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=3299&Description=Fuel+Filter+(Gold) NAPA is the only place I have found that carries this filter in stock. Place this filter between your outlet of the gas tank and the inlet of your fuel pump. This will keep any rust or dirt from entering your fuel pump. Racers use this type of set up for there cars. There filters are bigger and cost 10 times as much as a small inline filter. Now put all this back together and try and drive the car. See what happens. If your end up with the same results as last time stalls then starts then there are 3 other things that might be causing this. 1. Rust in the tank that has clogged you pick-up line inside of the tank. You have to remember there is a screen at the end of your pick up line (inside of the tank) that may be clogged. Only solution to this is to have a new pick up line placed in your tank. 2. You have a bad Fuel pressure regulator. 3. Bad Fuel pump. You have to remember you have a car that is almost 30 years old. You live in a spot where there is cold then hot weather. There is condensation inside of every gas tank. Your tank is metal, water and metal does not work or mix well together. Especially Japanese steel. As far as the fuel pressure regulator it is very possible this is the cause of your problems. There is a rubber diaphragm, a spring and a check valve inside of the regulator. After 26 years or so of freezing, heat and ECT it may have gone bad. I had a 75 280 that was doing the same thing as your 810 was doing. It would run down the road and then just stall. It would start up a ride for a bit and then stall again. I ran a fuel pressure test on it and found out that there was really no fuel pressure to keep the car running. I replaced the regulator and POW it ran better than my 76 280. I say try this route due to the fact that you have tried the relay thing, the AFM thing, the distributor thing, the wiring of end plugs and I have never seen the temp sensor or thermo time switch stall a car due to them going bad. It will cause the car to spit and sputter or burn too much fuel and oil but never keep it from running. Good luck and I hope this helps.

You need to start with a turbo exhaust, a 77 280Z computer, J pipe, down pipe, and the turbo. I would get a boost control just to keep the engine from blowing..

Will, How do you now about club LA VELA?? http://www.lavela.com/home.htm You must be from Florida or you went to college there? LOL

For once you are right Carl.

Ok, the 77 sounds good due to the fact that it has N47 head, diamond ports on it with steel sleeves seems to have less power for him to destroy it. The compression test will tell you if you need new rings in it, by doing the old add a tea spoon of oil to the cylinder trick. Help here guys!! The RUM is kicking in. I think adding a spoon full of oil should tell you if the oil ring is bad. Am I right fellas?? For instance if you run a compression test and it runs low and you add oil to the cylinder you are testing and it runs high then you need to rebuild the bottom half. At least the rings will need to be replaced in this case. I for one would give my son the N47 head with Fuel injection and keep the E88 and carbs for my car. The fuel injection should convert right over if you use the 77 motor. You just have to place the computer in a spot.. On the driver left under the dash is stock for the Z car. The wiring for the fuel injection is not connected to the chasy wiring at all on the car. They are run on opposite sides of the car. Motor on left and electric on right. The blocks should all be about the same with everything inter changing. Just watch out for the head gasket you buy. Do research on this for I don’t remember which on is better. As far as paying for this I would charge him for a new motor in one of the cars.. Say about 1500.00……..

Just look at the Quater windows and tell me if it has been painted or if some one realy went through this car right. How about the data plate rust on 2 rivits but just a little on the other sie???? Looks to mer as this car may have been painted in the last few hours. Who knows could be a great restored project with 70,000 miles on it...

Thats right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is good to hear. Boobs are a very important part of the Z's drive train. With out them we are just another import sitting at the line. I ask about this thread due to the number of posts it has recieved. I would hope that this car has been fixed by now. P.S. I could not read the whole post due to the other half......

The sound of your Z is up to you. You could go silent just to wizz off the ricers or you could go loud just to wizz of the ricers. If you do the right combo you can get silent with good performance or go loud with good performance. I myself like it loud. I just put a little insulation in the back and turn the radio up. I have straight 1 ½’ pipe with no resonator and bumpers taken off. You would be surprised to see how many people look at the car when it’s loud. Plus the ricers don’t know what to do when a car is louder than theirs is. You have to sit down and decide what type of sound you want out of your Z. I have been told to use 2 ½ inch pipe for the L28 with a nice type of turbo Muffler. This should get you some pep in your car. If you have the L24 to L26 I would stay 2 ¼ and use a nice turbo muffler with no resonator. If you have the L28 I would go with 2 ½ no resonator and nice turbo muffler. You just got to remember the muffler will sound good only when you get on it. If you want it to sound good when you sit at a red light then go with no muffler and straight pipe.

Ok Guys How Long Is This Post Going To Last???? Will It Beat Out The Boobs Post Some Day????:laugh:

Ok you should be banned for life but not from here:tapemouth just silenced maybe the strip club should ban you but not here. You must mean the rotor not the wheel but I will entertain this question. You have to think on what holds the wheel on is better than what holds the rotor on. You got 4 lugs for the wheel but just one for the Rotor. Yes, that is all that will hold on the rotor is the bearings(don't hold $^!#) and the outside nut with a cotter pin in place plus the calliper. You will be fine with this.