Sailor Bob

Belongs to the artist formerly known as Prince?

I think they serve a purpose if they are large enough, but the silver realy stands out too much - plain black would be less noticable and look fine on a red or orange Z. Just an opinion - I am thinking about it for mine as well.

Arne My clunk is diminished, but still obvious (to me anyway). As a matter of interest the mount that I removed looked perfect, except for a small amount of dry rot - when I rubbed it, a very fine line was exposed and a long screwdriver forced through the gap and twisted revealed the defect, it was fully let go. As for bushings - I replaced everything last winter except the rear outer control arm units (spindle pins) - they were a major pain to remove. That would be too much like life if that was where the problem was. Anyway If that solves your clunk, please post or let me know. I'll just have to take it apart again.

I'm interested in the other possible causes of rear end clunk - from reading the posts over the past year I was convinced mine was related to the fwd diff mount. Over Last few days I did some suspension work and replaced the mount while in there (did the mustache bar last year), only to find out on the road that the clunk remained. I am wondering if it is related to backlash, mine is promenent when moving up in gearshifts. Any thoughts?

Money gone - install complete. I bought and installed the Eibachs. It was a pain taking it all apart again and I wound up with a spare washer:paranoid: , but I am compelled to say they work nice - the car is lowered about 1 inch and it rides very well - not harsh yet pretty good for ramps, esp. without a passenger. The profile is not quite as I expected - she looks slightly higher in the rear and the tape measure supports that. If anyone wants to see a befor and after I will post it. By the way I also did the front diff mount - pain and no real improvement.

In the shop manual it is refered to as a dampening plate.

I love spring. Spring is like Xmas to me (from the rust belt also) - when the snow melts and the salt is washed away by those unending April showers, it's time. Time for the first drive of the year. Man, I love it. Had her out yesterday after a gentle reawakening from her 5 1/2 month nap. Took it easy for the first 20 miles, to see everything was as it should be, then out the highway. Didn't take her all the way (only 110), but it was good for me:smoke: . Lots of other things I love about her too, but it's hard to top the first run of the year .

Gotta say that looks "really" nice. I just ordered Eibachs to go with HPs - I have my fingers crossed - $42 delivery

Someone liked her enough.

Just contacted the seller - he sent me shots of the valve cover about ten minutes after requested. "Not damaged, Just ugly" he said, somewhat crappy looking but no problem. Seller:Automotion Unlimited Inc, 97-04 Atlantic Avenue, Ozone Park NY 11416

Just looked at as well, still listed for another 9 days 2 hrs according to ebay. I got carried away and placed a low bid last night - might wait it out and make a serious one. A few more pictures are required though.

Hey GG & WW Thanks for the response - I just got an email fro Nick at MS he is in the same corner as you guys, he recommends both of those products. I'm spending money today. I'll post again when I get the install completed.

I have a request for info gone to Motorsport regarding lowering springs to see what they recommend - haven't heard back yet. The urge to buy is great :nervous: :nervous:

Just emailed the owner to say "does the original engine go with the car?" - He says that is the original engine and sent me these pics. 357a.bmp 357b.bmp 357c.bmp 357d.bmp

I must have posted at the same time. Valve cover ?

Slow on the draw!

Just noticed it, thought I'ld post. See the valve cover is wrong??:surprised

The flowers has ris, I wonder where all the birdies is? Speaking of springs - last year I installed a set of HP shocks that increased my HOE (height of eye (nautical thing)) about two inches. This spring I got a promotion and a couple of extra dollars, so now I want to adjust it back down to the stock height (or less) if possible. Any suggestions? - I see Motorsport advertising "Eibach"s alongside the HPs - is it safe to assume that they are a suitably coupled unit for a regular or better height. If you're in the know, please weigh in.

I had a similar problem - slide set to defrost, lots of blower noise and lots of moisture on the windshield. Slide was not functioning properly - inner wire core was folding at the sheath end and never permitting the defroster to engage. The repair required a new cable, but impatience and thriftiness (cheap) kicked in and I cut a peice of damaged antennae off, formed a sleeve for the end of the cable to prevent the folding - cleared the windshield in a minute. Probably useless information, but might help. Good luck

Sweet ride, looks really good. My favorite colour!

Should be a fair amount of material in "Search". This subject has been up many times befor. Good luck

I came across this issue last winter and it was far easier to remove the complete assembly. I am qualified to say this because I opened one at the spindle pin and the other at the inboard hinge. The (inboard) unit c/w T/L was trickier to manouver, but it was nothing compared to the time consumed opening the other. Yes - you can do it without removing the spindle pin - for certain on the passenger side. Driver side maybe trickier due to the tail pipe/ muffler occupying prime realestate (happens to be the side that I destroyed the spindle pin on .

You can get most of it on Ebay for very reasonable prices, but individual shipping is a pain. I did my front end last year for a couple of hundred $$. If you have the time and the gear the work isn't difficult and it is a little on the rewarding side, esp when you realize the difference befor and after. I was extremely inpressed with the difference it made - I did ball joints, tie rod ends and all steering bushings.

49 and holding in Eastern Canada

Perhaps I should straighten up that remark about the #2 - I was intending to convey - a car that had the potential with investment of time and minimal post purchase cash to be roadworthy. A rustfree with good original paint that was salvageable, original parts and relatively low miles. Like a good second hand car deal, but in a series III Z.