preith

From what I understand Logan's was the ex-BRE car. I was unaware Gerry Sr. build another one?? I did not know the Masons will be at Mitty either. What a bummer for me, I can probably make it down there next year with my car, but not this one. Gerry Jr. and the #3 are FAST. He clicked off some laps at Elkhart 10 years ago which still would have him in the top 5 at the same event. That's cool your car raced at Blackhawk. Yeah, check out the folders in the url, I did see some roadsters in there.

I stumbled across these from various SCCA Nationals at Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, Mid Ohio. The #81 Gerry Mason, GT2, I can only assume this is the #3 BRE car The #53 is Ellis Meister. The #33 ZX is of course the BSR/Paul Newman, GT1. The #85 ZX is Logan BLackburn Here's the original url: http://mwphoto-misc.smugmug.com/Cars/SCCA-NATIONALS

I assume you're referring to my post. Just drill out the stud no larger than 3/16" and mount one of these using a #10 screw. I like to use a small 1/4' tall (or thereabouts) aluminum spacer (to allow for articulation) and a nylon lock-nut For the linkage rod itself the easiest thing to do is use 3/16 rod cut to length and threaded with a 10-32 die. Everything aside from the rod ends are commonly available at local hardware stores, at least the ones by me. I'd take some pics but unfortunately the car is tucked away in storage at the moment. You can make out one of them on the firewall in this pic: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/100_0170.jpg They are advertised as "slightly loose" but this is in comparison to a standard rod end. Needless to say they're tighter than a decent plastic OEM one. You can also install right and left hand threaded ends to allow for "on the car" adjust-ability, but I didn't see a need for this.

EDIT: MY apologies, I should have read the original post a little closer, you're referring to the pivot bushings. I managed to find some metric ones with the same OD as original but they needed to be drilled out a bit. Somewhat of a pain but it turned out alright.

you could convert to rod ends specifically made for throttle apps. I did on mine, they work very well. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=182

For what USED to be speed and convenience. In my case the parts would arrive at my door the next working day via ground.

This thread at Hybridz got me thinking I should post something here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127778 It's been a few years since I put the group buy together so just an FYI. As OEM replacements are NLA through nissan, for those of you with loose steering joints and are not too worried about factory originality there are replacements available through Woodward. To the best of my knowledge they are the only company stateside who produces a 28 spline joint to mate to the Nissan rack. It seems most joints wear at the rack first, in which case one can cut the old off and weld the new joint directly to the steering shaft (smooth bore weldable unit). The splined both end joints are an alternative when both joints are suspect, and are great for a race only app where elimination of the steering column is desired. Part numbers are: UA201113, .540x28 (Nissan rack side) x .750-20 spline UA113160, ..540x28 (Nissan rack side) x .556 (smooth bore weldable) There are some good install pics on the hybrid thread above.

Yeah, Summit's been slipping, I'm beginning to wonder about them. It seems once the inventory starts to deplete it's a red flag for financial difficulties. I recently ordered ARP moly lube from and even that was on back order for 1 month! The order was promptly canceled. I've had issues in the past with Jegs and back orders even though the part may be listed as "ships in 4 days". Let us know if you call them though.

I'm not aware of any round port gaskets other than the MSA paper or OEM - which isn't recommended with a header. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about using the paper variety on a street car. It's only a concern when subjected to long periods of additional heat/stress from a motor sports environment such as an HPDE or road racing. With that said I've yet to receive the Hooker gasket, still on back order, but once it arrives I plan on experimenting a bit (in a non-critical area) to see how it responds to cutting. In regards to reusing the old one... it could have only 50 miles on it and would probably not be reusable. Once it's torqued down and used they typically don't remove without damaging. Plus in the grand scheme of things what's another $12? Certainly not worth the time and effort to have to redo.

Thanks Arne. After posting I googled the topic quite a bit. As just about everything x-pipe related is V8-centric it took a while to find, but I managed to dig up a page that explained it fairly well, 1/2 way down: http://www.performance928.com/cgi-bin/page_display.cgi?page_nav_name=exhaustuPp&pass_parent=1128 In summary, it all comes down to firing order/exhaust pulses. A traditional 3-2 header has the luxury of pulsing on alternating collectors whereas a typical V8 pulses in succession on the same side thereby overlapping/overloading the piping on a given side. My take is the x-pipe rarely hurts performance on a 6, it just isn't needed.

Arne, sorry to drag up an old post of yours but would you mind elaborating on this? Have you found any publications supporting this theory? I ask because my road racer currently has true duals. Power is wonderful at high rpm, especially with the large cam, but from the reading I've done the h-pipe would seem to be the perfect fit for boosting low-mid power without sacrificing the high end. Ultimately back to back dyno tests would provide the concrete answer but I have neither the time or inclination to do this.

Thanks Darrell, after posting it occurred to me I should have started it with IIRC.

It's covered rather well in the "how to rebuild" book by Tom Monroe, I would suggest obtaining a copy. With that said the nails go in after the seals on the block side, the 'C" goes on the block side, you do use a small amount of RTV in both the nail slots and the cap corners. He also mentions installing the rear main on the crank while installing it thereby eliminating the need for a special too.

Dragging up a slightly old thread but this is worth sharing. The Nissan ball joint p/n is 40160-A8625 (not a series 1 of course) and they are available through Courtesy online. Currently $99.68 ea. FWIW the S30 stuff is not always the easiest to find on Courtesy's website without a p/n as they do not offer expanded parts drawing like they do for the later models.

I don't want to drag this thread down too much but it strikes a chord with me. IMO it's a sad fact that the vast majority of any grassroots sponsorship is through the vehicle entrant's own place of business, someone they know personally or are related to, or some form of a manufacturer's minuscule contingency program.