Virto

There's lots of places to pick up original metal badges, we're discussing the possibility of lower cost plastic replicas. Plastic holds up just as well, and anything's cheaper than 65 bucks each. Cool site though, hadn't seen that one before.

They look GREAT cutter. Any chance your buddy is willing to produce some for sale? I'm sure some people would be willing to bite on that, including me in the near future. The paint job is awesome. Big thumbs up.

In general, a metal tank would probably last longer than a plastic one, but after 30 years, both would be prone to potential failure. Check out the link I left you in your thread about removing the evap tank. That might be the best way to go.

Check this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=removing+evap Good chance it'll answer a lot of questions you might have, as well as provide good detail on the process involved.

Even MSA only lists the 70-74 part, meaning that by "late Z" Wick probably was referring to the 280, although it would have been just as easy to say that. I was under the impression that they were interchangeable thru all the model years, although that might not be the case. Anyone confirm? If they are interchangeable, I see nothing wrong with using the plastic filler tube. It may be prone to cracking, but I'm willing to bet that Wick meant that it's prone to cracking after 15 or 20 years, like all plastic. Exposure to radical temp differences would speed the process. I'll check a few other places and see if I can find a different part, I'll post when I'm done. EDIT: Well, Baddog doesn't have any right now, and Zeddfindings lists only the 70-74. Zparts has plastic tubes for all models. They look VERY different so I guess they aren't interchangeable. Learn something new everyday with these cars. Personally, I'd take a new plastic tube over an old metal one, and certainly over a leaky OEM one.

Ahh yes, confusing my special editions again. :paranoid:

It was a pretty limited number, with the yellow paint and louvers and the 5-speed. I can't find a production number on Google at the moment, but I'm sure someone has a better idea. As for value, well, it's higher than a typical 280Z, depending on condition, but like all S30s, isn't exactly a big ticket item. I wouldn't expect more than 10k if it's in really great shape and you have all the paperwork. These special editions were pretty rare, but the S30 certainly wasn't, and as such, the overall value of the entire line of cars, edition aside, is pretty low. Of course, who can put a cash value on how a car makes you feel?

Sounds cool to me.

Check out Hybridz.org if you're interested in motor swaps... Although I have to tell you, a good running L-series engine is a whole lot of fun, and sounds great. There's a reason Nissan used them for so long. Being an Illinois car, like mine, I'm sure that there's some rust hiding somewhere...under some undercoating or paint. Snapping a few pictures of the underside of the car would be nice...posting them here would get you some serious opinions. I certainly looks nice...my 280Z was yellow in a different life. POs...never can make up thier minds...factory blue to yellow to gray. Oh well, at least it's mine. Major problem areas are the battery tray, frame rails, spare tire house and floor pan. My PO replaced the floor pan already, and did a backyard band-aid fix of the frame rails...it's not pretty and it's not going to last forever, but at least it's drivable. One other consideration. Illinois does still require cars built after something like 1946 to be tested for emissions. It's just an idle test (no dyno) but you need to be able to keep the car is good running order to prevent a failure. These cars are awesome, but they aren't cheap. Still, I wish mine looked that good...but I didn't pay anything like 8k for it. If I were you I'd really get some undercarriage shots of the car and put them up here, and everyone will love to help you decide. EDIT: As for the trouble starting, the car might just need to have the carbs tuned. If you do decide to pick up the car, people here can offer some help, depending on what carbs are hiding under those air cleaners.

As compared to me, I suppose. No offense intended.

He was born June 20th, 1949. So yhea, he's pretty old, but he said that the very first car he ever bought was that 280Z. Doesn't mean he couldn't have had a hand-me-down or anything before that.

I was just wading thru my Top Gear collection and started watching an older episode where Lionel Ritchie was the Star in a reasonably priced car. Jeremy Clarkson mentioned that Lionel has never sold any car that he's ever bought. Lionel remarked that he still has his very first car that he bought. Any ideas? Lionel Ritche's first car was (is I guess) a Datsun 280Z 2+2. Kinda neat, just figured I'd share.

You might not be seeing spyware, but just some tracking cookies that the websites you visit are leaving on your computer. If you keep seeing the same exact things, this is a good possibility. In my experience, the AOL spyware/adware/virus scan/blocking software is pretty poor. Here is what I would do in your position: 1) Install Lavasoft's Ad-Aware. Just search Google for adaware. It's free for personal use, is updated frequently and can catch a lot of things AOL misses. 2) Check your PC for active viri. Using AOL or Internet Explorer, do a Google search for Panda ActiveScan. It's a free on-line virus detection/removal program that runs in Active-X, so you need to use Internet Explorer. 3) If you log in via AOL, but do most of your browsing via Internet Explorer, you might want to consider installing Mozilla Firefox. It's based on Netscape and is arguably more secure than Internet Explorer. I've used it for a considerable amount of time and can vouch for it's ability to stop pop-ups as well as reduce the overall amounts of spyware that get installed, since the vast majority of spyware is written to get in via Internet Explorer, as it's the most used web browser. You can get Firefox at www.mozilla.org. Hope this helps.

So get them fully repaired and then slap the rail caps on...cool. Thanks man.

Not to hijack the thread, but are these rails good to replace the existing front frame rails? I know that my driver's side rail was ground down and patched by the PO. It's a "good enough" job but will not last forever. Are these a good option, or is it best to just have a shop remove all the bad metal and just fab some replacements?

You can probably just pick up an oil temp guage from autometer and tap the oil pan. That would probably give you the best overall indication of temp.

Some backyard mechanic starter button perhaps, wanted something a bit different. Next time you go to drive the car, turn the key to on and press the button. You might be able to save your wrists the horrible strain of twisting the key and holding it for 2 seconds.

That's exactly what that is. Longer than 8mm, and you'll probably hit something inside the case, and they want to avoid that, obviously.

Don't know how many Americans know him either...he was primarily a Chicagoland icon. But man, he made tossing a ping pong ball in a bucket a darn good time.

I always thought it was just covered by the bumper. Now you've got me wondering...

Here's the article. Good read. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034

ooo...sounds sooo good. What kind of exhaust you running?

that's awesome.

Yhea, but he's giving you both seats plus one mounting bracket.

I'd love to have a high res export of that...it would make an awesome wallpaper. Been a long time since I've done any CAD...my architecture studies were years ago.