V8-240Z

Another good resource is www.toolhaus.org

You could count me in on that also.

Try out this mobile phone tracker, it's great, using a satellite map track any connected mobile phone with coverage anywhere in the world!!!! Log on to http://www.sat-gps-locate.com and enter a cell phone number. Wanna know where your wife/hubby/kids are?

I never thought of that, and that dealer with the trunk monkey is from where I live.

Lost the key to my club and just slipped a piece of pipe over it where its attached to the steering wheel and bent it enough to remove it. The club should only be used as a layer of theft prevention combined with something else.

I also thought that a replacement was the best option, but having first read this at 12:30 in the morning I figured that maybe it would look a little different when I was really awake later today. But I have to agree with Dave and taking him up on his offer is the best bang for the buck.

Since the output of the alternator loops through the ammeter before going to the fuse box I would say that something needs to be changed. Any addon accessory past the ammeter/fuse box will push the ammeter to its limit or over. The 75 280Z used a shunt under the hood to drive the ammeter with its millivolt output going to the ammeter that is actually a millivolt meter with a amp scale on it. Then in about 76 the ammeter was changed to a volt meter.

What happens with the 240Z ammeter when a alternator upgrade is done with a alternator that puts out about twice the amps that the ammeter is rated at? A 45 amp ammeter and a 85 amp alternator. I would think that a ammeter should be matched to the alternator output.

59 and not getting any younger. I call Oortland Oregon my home and have for the last 59 years.

Did you remove the outer steel sleeve?

What would a calendar clock for a 280Z be worth?

I don't often get on a band wagon but I had to make a exception here. I simply told him. About your radio, I have owned every year 240Z and I can tell you and be 100% positive that radio as it sets did not come from a 240Z. That face plate is 260Z to 280Z and will not fit any stock 240Z heater control bezel.

Sent you a PM

Hi Nick, I did the V8 swap on my 71 using the Jags That Run kit. PM me if you are looking for more information.

This is beginning to sound like a wood working forum I used to belong to where a member wanted to know if sucking vapors out on a paint can with a straw before it was sealed up was dangerous. Can we say drain bamage oh I meant to say brain damage.

Leave it to the French ..... although kinda "weird" this guy is certainly talented! http://www.dailymotion.com/visited/search/jeromemurat/video/xf9oo_jerome-murat

The easy way to do the battery disconnect is with a Intellitec latching relay. http://www.mastertech-inc.com/intellitec/batt_disconnect_relay.html This is not a starter relay, it disconnects the battery with the flip of a switch or reconnects the battery with a flip of the switch. The only power used is momentary when connecting or disconnecting the battery. These are $50 and can be mounted by the battery with the on/off control wires that can be 16ga going to a toggle switch in the car. These work well and can replace the standard battery disconnect rotary switch that is used.

I am up here in Portland and I have the correct head for a 77-78 280Z. The head is complete and ready to bolt on. Since we are close shipping is not bad and its 1 or 2 days away. Send me a PM, actually I sent you one already.

If you are going to do any wiring this eBay seller has new Buss ATO 8, 14 and 20 fuse boxes for sale. He has a lot of them but they are selling fast!!! 20 fuse box $2.50 each eBay #150042862956 14 fuse box $2.00 each eBay #150044122134 8 fuse box $1.50 each eBay #150011073765

I found out that there are at least two types of tachs for the 240Z and 260Z-280Z. One type is a four wire positive trigger tach used on the 240Z and the other is a three wire negative trip tach. The 4 wire type in the 240Z has one wire that sends positive voltage to the tach, one wire is for ground and the other two leads are the trigger loop, one coming and the other going. From past experience I have found that this type of tach is very unreliable. The 3 wire type of tach is more reliable and more adaptive to aftermarket modifications to the ignition system. The 3 wire type has a positive lead, a ground and a negative trip lead that runs directly from the male bullet post on the back of the tach to the negative terminal on the coil. Looks like ZX ignition may need 2.2K resistor inline from the bullet post that goes direct to the "-" post on the coil. The ZX tach resistor is 2.2K ohms, 1 watt, and part number 7321-9300. You will know the resistor is needed if the tach jumps all over. OK, here is what I have done with my 240Z. I removed my old 4 wire tach and replaced it with the three wire. Put the new 260Z-280Z tach guts in the 240Z metal housing, and swap the faceplates to keep the redline accurate. The needle pops off, don't damage it. One important detail in the wiring. The ground wire and the power wire are reversed between the 240Z tach and the 260Z-280Z tach. Connect the 260Z-280Z tach's sensor lug back to the negative terminal on the coil. This is the male bullet post on the back of the tach. This will take a wire you will need to add, 16-18ga will be just fine. My 240Z is a V8 but the swap is the same for the L6 the only thing I did different was to turn the calibration screw on the back of the tach so it would read correctly for a V8. NOTE: Make sure you reverse the power leads on the back of the tach, compare them before you swap you will notice the + and - are reversed. The little "loop" from the 240Z tach is a + pulse trigger and is simply left alone with this swap. Just push it aside. If you cut it the car won't start. (Don't ask)

Just found this on eBay, It looks like it bolts in but there is nothing in my 71 quite like that. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250035195533

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Here is a link to a 72 wiring diagram that has more detail and easier to follow than the AutoZone one. http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Wiring/72_240z_wiring.pdf

A R200 mustache bar will not fit a R180 because the R200 has wider bolt spacing on the rear cover. The correct R180 mustache bar sit just in front of the 2 vertical risers and the R200 mustache bar sits just behind the vertical risers.You will also need the curved transverse link brace.

Here is a picture of a template for a 71 http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Aircond/70-73Parts/71AC5.jpg And this folder has some other stuff in it http://s170049317.onlinehome.us/V8-240z/Files/Datsun/Aircond/70-73Parts/