MAX

Hey Mimregi: I'm still wrestling with my Weber DGVs as well. Here are a couple web sites that have some good technical information. www.webercarbs.com www.piercemanifolds.com www.theautoist.com/weber_carb.htm I hope this helps..

HD 240Z: Thanks for the info. Did you mount the electric fuel pump back near the gas tank where the OEM unit was originally mounted? And did you remove the mechanical fuel pump or do you use them together?

After my 73 240Z sits for more than a couple days it is hard to start. I wonder if I'm having a problem similar to that as posted by Mark Dixon where the mechanical fuel pump takes a while to prime the fuel lines. HD240Z...you indicated that you corrected your problem by adding an electric fuel pump. Could you advise me as to the type and manufacturer of your electric fuel pump. My car used to have the OEM type electric pump added by the dealer to fix the 73's fuel problems but it had long since died and I didn't add one back after doing my restoration. And now I see that the OEM pumps are way expensive.... By the Way .....I'm also running duel Weber DGV carbs. Would a simple one way valve do the trick instead of adding an electric fuel pump as mentioned by HLS30.com in the same post by Mark Dixon? Thanks Guys....

Carl, Love that design that was proposed to Nissan in 98. Did you get any feedback at all....Is there anyway to forward these thoughts again...

I would certainly like to see Nissan incorporate the long flowing hood style of the 240Zs. And along with that how about something like the G Nose front end but styled more to look like the Jaguar XK8. But for goodness sakes throw out that bulky, Nissan Truck looking front end . And perhaps increase the width of the car by a few inches . Give the car its own look and character like the 240Z had. And not a style that looks like many of the others.... And of course a larger HP engine. Just my 2 cents from a 240Z owner.....if you couldn't guess... Cmon....Nissan....here's your chance to make your mark on the sports car world again like you did in 1970 with the 240Z.

Motor Sport Auto sells a couple books on Weber Carbs.....Although I haven't personally read them myself..... Perhaps I should get them as I have a pair of DGVs on my 73 240Z. They work great except for a hesitation coming off idle which I can't seem to get worked out.

Could someone give me a little "coil over 101"? It seems to me that they are a lot like the OEM suspension that has the coil on the outside of the shock/strut mechanism. Just curious thanks

I think the weather proofing system is the worst designed area of the S30s. When I say this, I'm referring to the poor rust proofing and water drainage making it notorious for rusting out.

Hey ZIII thanks for the headsup on the Secondskinaudio place.....these look like some good products.. Their one product called Spectrum, which is sprayed or painted on, may be better for using in water prone areas like the outer door skins. But I'm not to sure about putting the mat type products like the aluminum clad Damplifier stuff there as well....It appears that they recommend putting a coating of the Spectrum on first followed by the other products....I'm just really concerned about moisture getting trapped between the mat and the door skin and causing a rusting problem.... I see that installers also use the mat type of products on the inner door frame just under the vinyl door panel......So that may be the way to go....using the Spectrum right on the outer door skin and the Damplifier product under the vinyl door panel.... they also use the aluminum clad buytl product (Damplifier)for blocking heat as well as sound deadening on the fire wall, and floor. Then I suppose that Spectrum stuff would be a good first base coat for all sheet metal, whether it is the floor, trunk, firewall, transmission tunnel or side panels, etc...... Stay in touch on this one.....

Hey Jmark, I was reading your 2004 post about using Dynamat and would like to re-open this thread. So how did that work out for you? Did you use the Dynamat material on the outer door skin and/or on the inner door under the door panel. I too am thinking of using Dynamat or equivalent in my Z....But I too am concerned about it holding moisture, especially if used on the outer door skin, and rusting out the door from the inside out.... Do you or anyone else know if it is safe to use one of these materials on the outer door skin where they are susceptable to water from rain or washing? thanks

Hey Jmark, Great looking 280 with those Panasports....

I'm running the 15" silver Panasport Wheels on my 73 240Z with the Yokohama AVID H4s, 205-65-15. They look great and perform great too...

Hey Zedevan, I like the looks of your 240/350Z design. Great job.... Now if you could somehow get rid of that boxy/Nissan Truck looking front end on the 350Z and replace it with a more sleek looking design like the G Nose or the front on the Jaguar XK8, I think you would have a great looking car. And then take your designs to Nissan and apply for a designer job....

Has anyone ever put a pair of speakers in the front besides the usual mounting in the doors? I'd like to hear about it if so. thanks MAX

Motor Sport Auto has a line of rear speaker panels for various Z models....I just got one for my 240Z and I think they should have ones for a 280ZX. I haven't mounted any speakers in them yet so I don't know how they sound. , but they do look great.... good luck

Well, The 350Z was a concept car once too and I think it's designers blew it. I think they should have gone for a more sleek, aeordynamic flowing appearance like the Jag XK8.....instead of a pregnant guppy with a front end that looks like one of Nissans trucks.........

Thanks for your help Escanlon. Well, I got the turn signal lights working today. I got tired of messing around with those thermal type flasher units so I went over to Checker Auto Parts store and got an electronic flasher module. It is a model EL12 and made by Tridon Stant, a Tricor company. It has two terminals in the same exact configuration as the OEM one and it connects directly to the connector with the Green and White wires. However, there is no bracket on it to attach it as with the OEM one. So I just took an old flasher can and removed the junk inside and fitted the new one into the top rim of the old can. It seems to fit pretty snuggly. But anyway, the good news is......IT WORKS like a champ. And by the way, Escanlon, I measured the voltage betwen each of the wires attached to the old OEM T/S flasher and ground and it was close to 12 volts. On my Z it appears that the white wire from the flasher connects to a green wire on the turn signal switch itself. Thus, the T/S switch switches 12 volts to the various lights when the lever is activated...... Thanks again

Thanks for your reply Escanlon..... I replaced the flasher on the driver's side near the pedals. I'm sure that is the one that controls the turn signal lights. I removed the flasher unit and put my VOM (ammeter) between the green and white wire. My Digital VOM is fused at 2 amps and it the fuse blew out ....so I would assume that two turn signal bulbs (front and back) draw more than 2 amps. But this does not seem to be enough to activate the flasher.... And by the way.....my Z has a bundle of wire above the kick panel on the passenger side....To tell you the truth, I'm not sure where the hazard flasher is on that side......

Hey Guys, I'm confused about my turn signal lights. The front and rear turn signal lights (both left and right) will illuminate when I actuate the turn signal lever but they won't flash.....the left pair when the lever is down and the right pair when it is up.... However, all will flash as normal when I activate the hazard warning switch. So I would think this proves the wiring to be OK. I have replaced the turn signal flasher. I have also removed the turn signal switch and cleaned it several times with contact cleaner. Prior to this cleaning effort the turn right hand turn signal lights wouldn't even come on.. So.....I'm guessing that I may have some corroded wiring connector someplace. I'm getting enough current to illuminate the lights but not enough to heat up the bi-metalic strip in the flasher. Does anyone know how much current draw it takes to cause the flasher to heat up enough to flex and break the contact......?? By the Way, I have a 1973 240Z. Many thanks

POR 15 ditto I also used the POR 15 products to do both the inside and outside of the tank on my 73 240Z. It worked very well.

Hi Mike, ........The Z restoration is nearing completion....and the wife is staying for now........

3rd Wife......One Z A few years ago the wife was giving me crap about my 73 Z taking up room in the garage. And I promptly reminded her that it has already outlasted 2 wives. To which she replied....well then "go do what it takes to get it running" And now about 5 years later it is just about done.....

I am the original owner of my 1973 Z which I bought in August of that year. And I still have it 33 years later. It is nearing a 5 year restoration project and I hope to have it back on the road this summer....

I replaced the E88 head on my 73 L24 engine with the E31 head. The engine guy replaced the valves with the larger ones from the L28 engine. Well, this caused another problem which I didn't find out about until it was too late. After running the engine for a while I noticed this loud clicking noise coming from the upper part of the engine. Upon tearing down the engine I found that the larger valves (both intake and exhaust) were contacting the insides of the cylinder walls. Later on I found out that the cylinder walls should have had some relief cut into them at the top to accommodate the bigger valves.....I subesquently was told that the L26 and L28 blocks aleady had such relief already cut into the top of the cylinders.. I was just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem and can verify if the L26 and L28 blocks do indeed have some relief at the top of the cylinders for the bigger valves. Thanks

Jurven240Z, Thanks for the link. That is a great explanation of the various head and block combinations. Very helpful....