MarkDixon

I'm right there with you guys. I bought the car about 2 years ago. I towed it to my house, finally got it to run, but the frame rail was so rusted it wasn't safe to drive. I have done quite a few things to restore it mechanically, but have not driven it much at all. I just got it back from my mechanic who has had it for 6 months. He replaced the frame rail. Woohoo!!! I can drive it now. Unfortunatly the rotors were so warped when I applied the brakes the steering wheel felt like it was going to fall off. I had the rotors turned before I took it to my mechanic so I knew they were shot. Anyway, It is running like a champ now. I'm sure the bearings were good, but you know how it is restoring something this old. once you remove one thing, you find 10 more under it that needs attention.

Arne, I came to the same conclusion. I thought what does it matter if they are good or bad. I don't want to have to take the wheel assy. back off in a week to replace bearings I should have replaced today. So with that said, I believe I used a simmilar method that Bart and Lance were explaining. The packing of the grease was the easy and fun part as I don't mind getting dirty. Plus when my wife comes out into the garage it really looks like I'm getting things done when I have grease all over me. Getting the "race" off was a bit of a job. And if that wasn't enough trying to get the new ones on was even harder. I eventually preveiled. Took her for a test spin with my new bearings, pads, and rotors. For the first time since I've had her the steering wheel doesn't shake out of my hands when I put on the brakes. By the way, I have finally trained my wife how to pump the brakes so I can actually get all air out of the lines. Job done... Thanks for all of your help. Now I believe all I have left are cosmetic things. Such as both rockers, both rear wheel arches, a driver side fender and of course the rusted out rear hatch panel. I have purchased all the replacement panels so all I need to do now is save my money to get them welded in. Then of course another year or so of saving for the paint job. You guys have a wonderful weekend. Mark

How do I know if they need to be???

One last question. When I put my wheel assy. back on do I need to pack more greese around the bearings? Or is there a greese nipple that I should top off after replacing the wheel? Thanks

Hey guys, The hammer and chisel did the job. Thanks for the advise. I just hate how sometimes things go as or better than expected and then something as simple as removing a rotor brings you to a screeching hault. Then again how are we expected to appreciate our cars if they don't make us work for it.

Thanks guys. I soaked them in PC Blaster last night and I will try the chisel tonight.

I forgot to mention that I tried the torch. It didn't work either. I guess I'll let it soak in the PC Blaster for a while. If that doesn't work I'll have to find someone to press them out. P.s. I am using a block of wood between the hub and the hammer.

I finally got my car on the road, but my rotors are warped. I bought new rotors and pads, but I cannot get my old rotors seperated from the wheel hub assymbly. I have used PC Blaster and wacked it with a large hammer (using wood blocks) and I cannot get them seperated. I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the two together. Has anyone had this problem? What should I do? Do you think I can have them pressed apart? My local dealer said to use a bigger hammer. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Mark

I agree. MSA street flares. That is also a California wing on the back. I like the look of the flares and the wing, but his back tires are so big the rear is too far off the ground. It looks as if he has lifted the car as well. Why??? I thought the idea was to get your car as close to the ground as you could. He even has a rear skirt. Why put a skirt on if your going to jack your car up like that?

I agree with Loy. You can probably get one from the dealer. I know they still sell the fenders. I have a micro-fiche if you need a part number. sometimes if you call them and ask for an old part they will tell you they can't get them anymore, but if you have a part number to give them they will look it up. Most times they are suprised that they can actually get the part your looking for. If you go on ebay and look at z-car parts, there are alot of people selling parts still in nissan packaging. Chances are, they have not been sitting on these parts for 20 years and just now decided to sell them. They are buying them from their local dealer.

Thanks for the lesson. I have a late 71' and as you know a new wiper motor is impossible to find. And when I say new, I mean an old working motor that is new to me. I will try this and let you know how it works for me.

I have a 71 240z and my radiator was shot. I took it off, tried JB weld but it was leaking too bad to fix, or get re-cored. I bought this radiator and I am very pleased with it. I wanted a 4 row and had one on back-order from MSA for 3 months, but got tired of waiting. It's a 3 row and my car is running cooler than ever. Here is the link: $190 new http://www.radiatorx.com/datsun-240z-car_radiators-22111971024.html

I have towed my 240z both ways. With a dolly and the rears rolling on the ground (no problems), and on a trailer that i drove the whole car onto. I like the whole car being on the trailer better, just because I worried less about something bad happening back their. I would not turn the car around and let the fron wheels roll on the ground. That is a disaster waiting to happen. good luck

I bought the MSA 6 to 2 headers with the "do it yourself exaust pipes and their Turbo muffler. The muffler is sort of oblong shaped and not a circle type cylender so it stickes out below the car more than I would like but; It has a deep throaty sound and really gives out a powerful "race car" type sound when you rev up and especially when you down shift. It is a bit loud but not as loud as I expect a glasspack would. It still sounds like a Japanese car but not so much of a whine, more of a roar. All you need to do to change your sound is change your muffler. I think it sound like your exaust is set up pretty good from the engine back to the muffler.

Hey Mike, I like the way you think. I'm gonna drive faster than anyone else so that left lane is for me. By the way, I am finaly picking my car up from Eradatz on Saturday. Wahoo!!!!!

I have a 71' 240z and have had 3 other 240z's. I do like the looks of the 91' 300z but the 240z is and always will be my favorite. I do appreciate the 260z, 280z, 280zx, 300zx, and 350z but the 240z is where it is at.

If you have to sell it I think your asking price is right on the money for the condition your car is in. You may not sell it as quick as you want, but someone will definatly buy it. I would not drop the price at all. Anyone who has spent any time restoring a z knows they will eventually spend the same amount if not more to get a cr in that good of shape. good luck, Mark

hell I have a 71' 240z and I'll take $29,000, and I'll come to your house on the weekends and help you finish re-building it

AGEMEANSNOTHING Am I to understand you are 12 years old... How and why do you own a Zcar??? I suppose my previous remarks should have been for your father.

"That I pretty much stole it from him"??? That doesn't sound good. I'm all about a good deal on a Z, just as much as the next man. But it sounds like you may have taken advantage of somebody, and that's not kool. If I am mis-reading you I appologize, but if not, have you ever heard of instant karma???

I'm not sure. My car is in the shop having the gas tank sandblasted among other things. I will get it back Oct.15th. I will post that engine number then.

HLS30-42928 Made 09/71 bought in Japan by an Army Sargent. He kep it in Japan for 2 years then had it shipped back to the USA when he returned home. I have his shipping label, plus a hand written letter from Datsun thanking him for his purchase of their 240Z.

You can get that air dam from Motorsports zcarparts.com Two things to think about when you decide what material you want it made from. 1. urethane will not break when you drive into a curb or scrape a speed bump, but at highway speeds it will bend and your paint will crack and peel off. 2. fiberglass might crack or break if you hit a speed bump but it can be easly fixed, and if you are carefull of bumps or curbs, the fiberglass is very durable and the paint wont peel. Also you can easly make a mold from a fiberglass so you can make your own replacement air dams.

Why would you want to get rid of the 5 spoke wheels you already have. They are classic. Just put a little elbow grease into them and they will polish up like new.

I'm not sure what the Size/Depth I need for my 240Z The price on the 4 row looks pretty good. Have you used either of these radiators, or known anyone who has. Also, I don't know if I need a 4 row or not. It may be over kill. I do know I've had 3 previous 240z's and all of them have over heated easily. And none of those had A/C