MarkDixon

I'm in the same boat as you cremmenga. I have replaced my frame rail from the radiator support all the way under the floor boards. I have panels for both rockers, both rear wheel arch, and a whole new(used) rear hatch end. The frame rail was Factory NOS I got a deal $250 The install cost about $2,000 (had to fabricate part of the wheel well to weld to) GT28r..... Unless you have a lot of money and time, buy a car with no rust in good working condition. If you buy a car with cancer, you will feel sorry for it. You will fall in love with it. You will eventually spend so much money on it, that you will quickly be past the point of no return. Although you will appreciate your car greatly when you are done.

Darrel, This car looks like it is in pretty good shape. No major rust that I can see. Check under the battery tray, the frame rail, the floor boards (you may need to tap around with a screw driver to find weak spots). The car looks pretty straight. Here are a few places you will want to be familiar with for parts. http://www.zcarparts.com (all kinds of parts) order their free catalog http://www.ztherapy.com (the best Carb service in the business) http://www.datsunrestore.com (nice hard to find stuff) http://www.zzxdatsun.com (also hard to find stuff) http://www.datsunzparts.com (the best floor boards) http://www.tabcobodyparts.com (nice cheap body panels) although this car doesn't look like it needs any. Good luck, Mark

The clearance is not a problem. I can push it all the way on. The problem is, when I am pushing it on it feels like the is a pocket of air that is resisting my forward motion. It will even pop right back out as if there were a spring behind it, only it feels more like air pressure than a spring. As I said, I can use a hammer or the end of a screw driver and knock it all the way on. The air pressure seems to go away when I get it (All the way on). But, if I drive it around the block, it is rattling around in my wheel center cap by the time I get home. I though maybe I had the wheel hub assembly on too tight, and was creating some sort of air pocket. It doesn't make sense that it does this on one side and not the other. My next move is to switch caps and see if that makes a difference. Thanks, Mark

Someone must have had this happen before. I am hopefull someone would have a fix for my by the time I get home from work. I want to drive it tomorrow, but don't want to drive with the dust cap off.

I have a 71' 240z and I replaced my front rotors & bearings. After done, the dust cap on the passenger wheel went on fine. The dust cap for the driver wheel does not. When I try to push the cap on, it feels like there is a pocket of air traped in the hub assy. that is creating resistance. I can use a hammer and tap it on, but after driving around the block, it pops back off. Anyone have this happen?

I am lucky enough to have an original dash with no cracks, but if I had to I would go with a full dash cap. The carpet looks a bit too redneck and the 1/2 cap looks too cheap. For less than $100.00 you can get a full cap and that will be one of the cheapest things you can do to your car to make the most impact on looks.

I paid alot of money to make my car have that sound. 3 to 2 headers, 2.5 inch exaust, turbo muffler, and a major tune up. I love it when I down shift. Sometimes on the highway I will speed up a little, (ok maybe alot) so I can let off of the gas pedal and here that sound at high speeds. Sounds like your car is running well. Mark

You can buy the "Japanese" break line and nuts from your local Advance Auto. Nothing special about that. It also requires a 10mm wrench

I'm not sure where these guys are, but I think they are in Japan. They have some nice z-car stuff. http://www.datsun-freeway.com/products/index.html

kool, I needed to get back there and do some Fall cleaning anyway. Everytime I turn the fan on I get junk comming out of the vents. The wife isn't to happy about having to clean off everytime she gets out of the car.

Good for you. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I'm sure yours is as beautiful to you as mine is to me. I don't even have the nice looking primer yet. I still have rust where your primer is, but I do have all the replacement panels. It is just a matter of cutting out the cancer and welding in the new.

26th, did you get that off the micro-fiche? I guess that would have been too easy for me to look at mine. I think I will get back to this job tomorrow. I better go make good with the wife so she doesn't get too mad when she see's her tooth brush.

Hey 26th, I thought you took it like a champ. It was entertaining at the least. That guy was just hanging himself. By the way Mike, Eddie had to bend my clutch pedal straight again , and the hole at the top of the pedal where the pin holds it into place was so worn out he had to weld a piece on it so it would work right again. Maybe mine is 113,000 or 213,000 or dare I say higher

I used Mr. Bubble toilet cleaner a tooth brush (my wifes of course, and some hot water.

My memory may be coming back now. Remember it has bee 10 years since my last 240Z. The control lines are single metal wire at the end, with a small crook in the line right? and all I have to do in un-hook that crook from a lever with a little hole on the end of it right?

Ok, Now I have all the knobs off of the heater panel. How do I get the levers loose from the back of the panel?

Kool, I already took the screws out of the heater panel. Thanks It is amazing what a difference a little soap and a tooth brush will do

Hey Mike, I think my car has 13,000 original miles on it. What do you think??? The gauge reads 13,148 that could be right don't you think?

Hey guys, I'm cleaning my vents. The two round side vents were easy to get out. How do I get the center dash vent out without breaking it???

Jon, why re-build? Buy a rebuilt unit from Advance Auto ($82.00). http://www.advanceautoparts.com I bought one from them real cheap, looks good works good. Why pay more for the same thing at MSA?

Right on seerex. I didn't like his attitude either. I think if your going to claim something like 15,000 original miles you should have no problem proving it. And something like life long maintenance logs would no doubt do that.

Unless of course you have owned the car from new.

Ok Seerex. I see you have a 71 240Z RED 43k original. How do you know???

Ok, here is my question. I was going to post this on the other thread but it is gone now. Say someone wants to claim their Z-car has 15,000 original miles on it. How can they prove it. the 240Z doesn't register over 99,999 so who's to say it is 15,000 or 115,000. The shape of the car does't tell the story. You could have a car with 1,000 original miles on it, but if you left it out in the rain for 35 years it is going to be full of rust. How can you prove your milage???

I just passed $5,000 on my 71' 240z and I haven't even started replacing the rusted out panels yet. I have bought all the new parts but will need to get the old cut out and new welded in. Then there is still new struts, bushings, and oh yea a paint job left yet. I'm sure it won't be long before $10,000