EScanlon

Sorry it took a while to get these pics taken, but here they are: These are the aluminum door sills and lower door panel which the Roadsters used. I was content with a bright non reflective shine, i.e. somewhat of a satin finish. As the parts were sourced from several different states, each one probably experienced different washes, sprays etc. The important thing here is that this coating was applied in 2007. Overflow bottle, the original paint was peeling and the nice brass metal was showing through. I felt it needed to show all the time. Again, Glisten PC applied 2007. Last picture shows the air filter housing (plain steel, note no corrosion) and the Heater Control Valve, the main one which Roadsters used to bypass the Heater completely. Note that this is not only above the exhaust manifold, but also subjected to the water temp inside. It is both copper and bronze. Again, coating was applied in 2007. FWIW E

Sorry but the premise that half the core is bad won't wash. The heater plenum is a pretty basic unit, if you're getting heat out of it at all, it's available to both sides. You're not making the mistake of expecting the heat to come out the eyeball vents are you? Heat will NEVER come out the eyeball vents, they are strictly VENTS and Fresh Air Vents at that. If you are getting heat to come out the passenger side of the bottom of the plenum when the levers are in ROOM mode, then you have something obstructing the driver's side of the door as the heater core is just above the volume of space that feeds both the passenger and driver side doors. If on the other hand you're referring to heat out of your Defrost tubes when the lever is in the Defrost mode, and you are only getting heat out of the passenger side, then you have something blocking the tubing as again, the defrost tubes (R&L) feed from the same general area of the plenum. FWIW E

In re-reading this older thread, I noted this post and find I disagree. The Stick-On style of body molding that the OP shows in the picture, as I recall, was available in the 70's, but it was more expensive than the aluminum / vinyl setup, or at least that's what I recall. Additionally, it took more effort to get it right, not only did it need something to hold it straight as you applied it, the ends of the molding had to be carefully cut and shaped in order to create the pointed and rounded ends. And as far as filling the holes from previous rivet jobs, the shop I worked at had a slick method of using a large size soldering iron to fill them in. I've used that method myself and knowing how to do it saves hours of body work from having welded or brazed the holes shut. E

Indicative of a bad re-connect within the Hazard Switch when you turned it off. That's why I mentioned actuating it, it has happened to others before. E

By "the indicator switch no longer works" are you referring to the Turn Signal Stalk no longer actuating (turning on) the respective R or L turn signals? If so, it might be as simple as wiggling your Hazard Switch to ensure that the T/S contacts within make contact again. Alternatively, it could be the T/S flasher that went out on you. FWIW E

I blew it with the rotating the engine bit. I was thinking more of not letting it blow through the exhaust or intake valves but didn't process the thought completely. I'm glad there are others here who chimed in! E

At a WAG, why not remove all the spark plugs and injectors, then slowly rotate the engine by hand (wrench) and blow high pressure compressed air in through the injector hole and see if you can get the piece of foil to blow out the spark plug hole? Others will chime in, but if you're talking a small piece of aluminum foil and not a solid chunk of aluminum then more than likely it won't cause major damage if any damage at all. But like you, I'm more of a bodyman than a mechanic so I'll bow down to other's opinions. E

The early (70-73?) Z's typically had the Heater Blower powered through an in-line fuse holder and not through the fuse box itself. FWIW E

Not original from the FACTORY, but it was installed by dealers in the US to combat Vapor Lock problems they encountered with some of the emission control wrappings, settings, etc.. Also known as the "Competition Hood" by others. 2¢ E

Don't forget RV repair shops when looking for closed cell foam. That's where I found it in a whole assortment of widths, AND thicknesses as well as several combinations thereof. E

In a word... YES. E

The black residue you're seeing is either the remains of the foam or what's left of the black "suede" or flocked finish that got applied to the inside of #31. Additionally, the chrome center vent fits inside 31 and is held by 32 + 33... The area where your blue line touches #31 is (was) a foam which not only sealed to part #30's metal face (which you ID'd above) but also pushed slightly up against the chrome center vent. This foam, due to age, typically disintegrates and needs to be replaced. I don't know if buying the replacement for #31 would provide it or not. If memory serves I have a #31 untouched (because the foam that's on there will barely accept looking at, definitely NOT touching) so I'll provide pics later. When I redid my vehicle and a couple of friends, I re-built the foam using closed cell foam strips that I cut and shaped to fit. I don't think I have pictures of the finished product, but I'll check and see. FWIW E

Not trying to confuse the issue but there is a phenomenon in this part of the U.S. that may not be noticeable elsewhere. Here, there are countless daily drivers that are simply ... "Old Cars" and not considered anything special by their owners. Yes, there are also the carefully cared for vehicles, the gems of which are the kinds of cars that Arne, Mike and myself have been privileged to source, but there are also numerous other vehicles that are simply: "Old Datsun, RUNS, needs some TLC to be a god daily driver, $1000 OBO". Those of us here in the PNW know to check some of these out as sometimes they really are diamonds in the rough. I have two, both victims of "While I am there..." disease and misdirected good intentions. The point I'm trying to make is that there are undoubtedly many vehicles that haven't been reported to any of the registries or even part of the "circuit" because to their owners; many of which are probably low-income or hard on their luck people who have little to no interest in owning a "classic" or even a "sports" car; they are simply... a mode of transportation. I don't think there is a large number of these, as I think it would be a strictly regional item. That is, here in the PNW, California, and possibly the South West states. The rest of the country will undoubtedly have limited isolated vehicles that fit into this category, but their numbers will also be limited. I don't think it's enough to alter the final statistics that may be deduced, but it should be considered. E

That "Chevy Logo" is also on the original dash, it's the location for the Hazard Switch Info Decal (ON-OFF) which on earlier vehicles did NOT have the indent. It's one of the ways to detect an early dash from a later style. Indent= later, no indent = early. E

In my case one of the Pertronix on one of the Roadsters didn't last more than a couple of weeks, and even then minimal engine run time, from side yard to garage and back couple of times a week. The ZX dizzy on the Z, except for one module failure several years ago (after lending it to "check" someone else's installation ... which I heartily opposed but was talked into and now will absolutely NOT lend) has been working for 12+ years without any problems, adjustments or repairs. Oil changes, tune-ups, etc. yes, but nothing to do with the dizzy save cleaning and re-gapping the same spark plugs. I generally take the Z to my mechanic for convenience's sake but he recommended the ZX change over for the other Z's I'm working on in order for me to source them. Sadly, there isn't a direct swap for the Roadsters although there is an individual who re-manufactures dizzies for them. FWIW E

Checking my installation further, since it was done 12+ years ago, apparently my swap included the proper base for the ZX dizzy, which in my mind didn't register. As a result, in straight SIMPLE terms, the Pertronix should be the easiest. However, my experience and others do show that there CAN be problems with it's installation and subsequent short term service life. My problems may have been due to a sensor plate that was slightly off spec, whereas others that have written their trials and tribulations mention dizzy bearings and (separately) over heating of the parts with eventual failures. Arne has an excellent test/trial/result article where he goes back to Points after trying the ZX, the Pertronix and one other (which eludes me at this point). However, he went back to the points and was completely happy with them. I searched high and low for references to the proper dizzy base and the only thing I found was post #5 in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43498&p=374406&viewfull=1#post374406 Maybe there are other incidences, and if you know of them it would help if you posted them here. E

Look for a pair of bullet connectors taped back to the main harness rope with blue electrical tape. Same at the Fuel tank for the optional electric Fuel pump and at the front of the car for the optional Fog Lamps. The last two have their corresponding Fuse/Switch circuit finishers by the center console fuse box. The Fog Lamps feed off the Parking / Instrument light circuit and it is highly recommended that you use a switch to in turn operate a relay up front along with a fuse. The Fuel pump set up isn't safety wired, meaning that once you power the pump by inserting a fuse in between the connectors at the fuse box it will run continuously, so it is advisable to connect it also to a fused/relay setup but with an oil pressure (or similar device) kill switch. FWIW E

Why did you need to do this? The OEM Wiring harness has the wiring already in it's circuits, and it's already connected to the door switches and the dome light switch. E

Ahh... it's obviously a thing of "deep" thought. Nonsense. While you can attribute all sorts of complex theories and supernatural heeby-jeebies to it, it isn't as esoteric as you make it to be. The "Timing" of the engine has all been calculated from the beginning of the engine's design, before the first casting of the block even gets poured, the timing is set. Does this mean we need to consider the angle of the even number cylinder axis in relation to the odd number cylinders in a V style engine before we can effect a timing change? Engineers do so during the design, and if you're considering a major change (engine points system to individual cylinder coil/spark systems) then yes you should also. But were not discussing the theory of internal combustion engine timing nor the considerations required to effect system changes on these engines. The question is in the title of the thread: "Easiest way to elinminate points on 240Z", and not "Obfuscations on Internal Combustion Timing that confuse all." The only way to get away from the Mechanical spark generator which are the "points" is to go to an electronic unit. Whether Pertronix, MSD or the 79 ZX Dizzy is the next consideration. (Yes you could go to the individual cylinder spark systems available on newer vehicles but the first word in the title is EASIEST.) Of the three methods, only the 79 Dizzy is a simple Remove and Replace process when done properly (meaning you don't spin the dizzy and you take care to match the position) even including the vacuum and mechanical advance systems. The Pertronix CAN be made to work and so can the MSD, but even the experienced mechanics who have done that mention that they still have to "play with it". E

Sorry, you have it completely backwards. I have the original 71 tach (4-wire) in my car and I'm using the 79 ZX Distributor. I tried the Pertronix in three other cars (two Roadsters-1600 & 2000, and a 73 240), and found that I then had to monkey with the wiring to get them to work. Finally got it to work on the Roadsters (Tach is not part of the ignition circuit in those two) but had problems with the Z's Start, and Run settings with the standard coil and resistor wiring. Finally removed the resistor and was able to run and start, but then found the coil over-heating. At that point I pulled the unit and shelved it. I guess if I'd gone ahead and upgraded the coil, removed the resistor it would have worked, but I was never very comfortable with simple tape holding the small magnet in the piece that replaced the rotor. The tach has never been a problem with my car and has been working fine since 2001 when I bought the car WITH the 79 dizzy installed. Since I had the problems with the Pertronix installation on the 73 I never really ran the car to state that the tach was trouble free, it may have been, but I can't state that as I didn't notice it. E

Don't forget that the 79 dizzy swap has been getting done to the early Z's since about... 1979 or so. If you're building a regular use vehicle and not a race car then that swap is exactly what the Datsun/Nissan only mechanics recommend. If you're building a race vehicle, then even the Pertronix isn't the way to go. I've done both swaps, the Pertronix CAN be problematic, but if you're careful it IS a simple bolt in and use. The 79 dizzy swap, aside from the care in replacing the actual dizzy body (to ensure timing stays true) is a true R&R project. As a side note, the ONLY function of the distributor IS to distribute spark. The Advance mechanisms you mentioned are an INTEGRAL part of the distributor's mechanism to keep the spark at the proper point of the combustion cycle. 2¢ E

Or you could just avoid all the melodrama and go for a 79 280 ZX electronic distributor with an E12-80 module. It simply replaces your stock 240 dizzy and wires in exactly like the 240, with the lone exception of powering the module. FWIW E

I put a clear coating on it, but it wasn't from powder. The finish is excellent and after 5 years (?--Flime Ties) still looks excellent, clean and shiny. I'll see if I can get a pic during the next show break. Powder coating generally requires baking at 400° F or so, which is why it's understandable to be concerned about the process. What I used was Glisten PC from the POR folks. Aside from requiring a special metal cleaner (akin to the Marine Clean / Metal Prep of regular POR) and taking longer to cure hard (PC will generally cure hard overnight, the Glisten PC, depending on temperature and humidity will take as long as 4-5 days), it is still a Do It Yourself type of process. Powder coating however, requires more specialized products, tools and setup... generally requiring your going to a shop that is actively involved in it. Glisten PC will run you less than $100 dollars and you can do more than just one or two pieces. I did the two door panel pieces on my Roadster, 2 Door Sill pieces (much bigger than the Z's), the 3 pieces per door for welting hold down / protection, the radiator overflow bottle, several brass coolant piping pieces, the two halves of the air cleaner, and a bunch of other pieces that I can't recall. I think I got my money's worth as I still have product. Web: http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/ I'll post some pictures later. E

Ditto the above. Bluntly, I've seen cars with the Rising Sun painted on their hoods, doors, trunks, hatch, etc. and it's fine for an individual who insists on swimming against the current, but I don't think that applies to this forum. My vote is to nix the Rising Sun. While there will be those who pooh-pooh the concept of feelings/emotions with the Rising Sun Flag I'll bet that there are symbols that they would object to as well. Some symbols evoke a gut reaction immediately, hence the requested edit of this post. The concept of the Sugar Scoop is novel and artistic. E

Does anyone have a spare front cover? Not looking to merge the "Pay it forward" thread and this, but it's the right time of the season.... I don't have one, otherwise I'd volunteer it. E