HizAndHerz

Here's my best shot at a transcript. There are places I totally guessed at what he is saying. Here at Rockwell Automation’s world headquarters, research has been preceding to develop a line of automation products that establishes new standards for quality, technological leadership and operating excellence. With customer success as our primary focus, work has been proceeding on the crudely conceived idea of an instrument that would not only provide inverse-reactive current for use in unilateral phase detractors, but would also be capable of automatically synchronizing cardinal gram meters. Such an instrument comprised of Dodge Gears and Bearings, Reliance Electric Motors, Allen-Bradley controls, and all monitored by Rockwell Software is: Rockwell Automation’s Retro-Encabulator. Now, basically the only new principal involved is that instead of power being generated by the relative motion of conductors and fluxes, it is produced by the modial interaction of magneto-reluctance and capacitive-deractance. The original machine had a baseplate of pre-famulated Amulite surmounted by a malleable logarithmic casing in such a way that the two spirving-bearings were in a direct line with the panametric pham. The line up consisted simply of six hydrocoptic marsal vanes so fitted to the ambi-phasient lunar wane-shaft, that side fumbling was effectively prevented. The main winding was of the normal Lotus-o-Deltoid type, placed in panandermic semi-bolloid slots of the stator. Every seventh conductor being connected by a non-reversible tremi-pipe to the differential girdle-spring on the upbend of the gram meters. Moreover, whenever florescent score-motion is required, it may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle-arm to reduce sinusoidal deplaneration. The Retro-Encabulator has reached a high level of development and its being successfully used in the operation of milfor-traniens. It is available soon, wherever Rockwell Automation products are sold.

I've been looking for a plain-jane long nose R200, but the local Pick-A-Part wants $175 for differentials. Their prices are getting rediculous.

Jim, I did make a couple of extras so let me check if it is in my Z "inventory". I can send you one with the bearings if you'd like. I got bearings from my local Ace hardware store. Jorns

I posted this not too long ago on another forum. Here's what I did to rebuild my distributors. First, I fabbed up some replacement breaker plate bearing keepers (that's what I call them anyway). The originals are thin plastic (upper right corner). I used a rotary tool to make four out of Lexan. It tricky getting all the holes for the bearings and holes so that the breaker plate screws would clear. The stopping pin was a pain since it can't stick up above the surface of the Lexan plate on one side. There's a Mitsubishi distributor that seems to have been only available for the Euro market that has a superior breaker plate. It has 16 bearings instead of the Hitachi's 3. A much better design. Good luck finding one of these. Here's a shot of the whole distributor: Here's a vacuum canister from an early 1980's Camero that I modifed to fit a Mitsubishi 280ZX distributor. The mounting would need to be different for the standard Hitachi distributors normally found on Z-cars. I bent the plunger to match the one on the ZX distributor. I cut the end off the plunger of the ZX canister and crimped and soft-soldered it to the end of the new one. Without a agood heatsink, soldering would probably melt the diaphram where the plunger attaches to it inside the canister. The mount would need to change for the standard Hitachi distributors. I did the one below to fit the Mitsubishi dizzy shown above.

I'm in the process of putting a 4-speed automatic in my wife's 280Z. The 4N71B automatic came out of a 1983 Maxima (aka 810 or 910) that also had an L24E engine. The tranmission is LONG and will require a new rear mount of some sort and for the driveshaft to be shortened. I'm working out the details of putting in a mount. It can be done without welding. It'll be a week before I get back to it, though.

Whatever one you can find with the least amount of rust! I prefer my wife's 1976 Z over my rusty 1978 Z just because I have a hope of restoring hers. I've rebuilt everything on mine and in the process have been able to see just how bad the rust is. I'm looking for a new body at this point. We do like the look of the hood vents from the 77/78.

Unfortunately, MSA and VB do not have their full catalogs online. You have to get a printed catalog. I'd offer to look up part numbers for you, but someone borrowed my copies.

Anticipating the removal of the spindle pins on my wife's 280z, I've been spaying them down almost daily for the past two months. Anytime I'm under the car, I pull off the locking bolts and end nuts and spray up inside as much as possible. I've got another month before I get to the wheel bearings and spindle pins. They should just fall out by then, no? Wishful thinking.

Well,I've seen about 20 AFMs and half of them had clear RTV that looked like it was done at the factory. Nice and and clean with no globs or evidence that excess was wiped off. The other half were obviously resealed with everything from copper RTV to white bathtub caulk. Based on this, I think the clear RTV is the way to go, something like Permatex Clear RTV Silicone.

The Nissan FSM is invaluable. Much better in most areas than Haynes and Chiltons. I have all three and often refer to each of them. The '76 wiring diagram has recently been posted to the AtlanticZ site (click here).