240260280z

Hmm Vettel & Barichelo drove the Suzuki's so the maths "found" them

This data is even more interesting as show how much the car out performs relative to its hp/weight (the plot above is magnitude of deviation), this plot attempts to normalize the data to pit supercar against econobox:

I was bored so I plotted the Top Gear leader board results against HP/weight (Source Data is Here: http://www.fastestlaps.com/tracks/top_gear_track.html). In theory, the more powerful and lighter cars should accelerate faster and have better times (Simple F=Ma). However there should be a general trend from exotics to econo boxes, so I fit a crude model to the diverse data to find this trend. Below is the data plot (blue dots) and the fit (red line). The X axis is the ranking (from first place to 197th) so the best lap times (super-cars) are generally on the left. I then compared each car's individual results against the model. In theory, a car with a certain hp to weight ratio should place on the red line. If it does better or worse then the driver, tires, car set up, driver mass and "magic" must be the reason. Here is the list. There are some surprises. As an example the GT-R is superb. Its HP to weight is 0.31 but it performs like a car who has a 0.50 ratio of HP to weight.

Read the history section on this page and you will be an expert: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system You can vent to road

John De Armond is a genius!

Triumph guys do the same! Some test data too: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml

http://hyllest.wordpress.com/2012/02/11/toyota-4-piston-brakes-on-your-datsun/ http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/caliperpage.htm http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?3571-4-piston-brake-conversion-questions

Hope (it works) Chest.

Drain the old and add new. It flushes when you drain. Most metal gets captured by the magnetic drain plug so wipe that off with a cloth. I used Redline fluid.

Another way to prove the bend is correct: "Mind the gap" between the flap and the body. If the flap is actually bent, the side gap between the bent part of the flap and the side wall of the throat should be greater than where it is not bent. From the photos, the gap looks even so the bend looks normal. It could be an aero improvement to spill air to the side and balance the forces to the edge at low rpm. Using a feeler gauge could give empirical data. Nice that Willoughby Z confirms a bend too.

ROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFL:bunny: ROFLROFLROFLROFLROFLROFL

The strange thing is that the flap looks cast with reinforcements and I would guess it would crack before bending so nicely and evenly.

Bead blast it. It looks bent but I never looked closely at one. This one looks straight:

On some versions with the spring retention clips, the seal is not so good due to weak spring. Also if the fuel is too high, it may slosh through the main circuit.

Some Webers leak where aux venturi couples to the body of the carb and fuel passes through to the main circuit.

about the bead blasting... weird. My throttle linkage was horrible until I took it all apart, cleaned and lubed. When I reassembled it, I made sure there was no play on the "pulling" direction when pressing the gas pedal. I figured, the slop in the return direction would be handled by the return springs. It made the car so much more drive-able.

I think they are important as they prolong the life of rings and valve seals by preventing high rpm vacuum condition that will suck oil past the seals and rings. Rebuild makes sense. You may be able to refresh tears in the diaphragms with improvised patches. 3m spray adhesive and paper can patch a ripped up speaker so there should be some way to revive a BCDD.

Some cleaners leave orange deposits on plugs that you may wish to clean.

In other parts of the world, the 260z moniker continued; but in North America, the 260z certainly seems like a transitional object and a way to use up 240z parts while transitioning to the 280z given the difference between early and late 260's and their respective similarities between 240z and 280z. I understand that safety and pollution regulations were the main drivers for the NA changes. I wonder if the early 260z's in other regions of the world also transitioned in a similar fashion and how regulations in those regions caused changes? (take wing/fender lights for example)

Ohh yeah.... get a big pail and fill it with this for soaking: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoBodyRepair1/AutoBodyRustControl/PRD~0477902P/Evapo-Rust.jsp?locale=en

And only cut out and weld one side at a time. Ohhh we are all looking over your shoulder and envious...that is a fine car and project you have there sir! We'll get you through it!

Here is the assembly coming out of the dash on a 1971 Jan 240z. You can see the green and black leads taped back with blue tape. This is in front of the fuse panel.