240260280z

It causes corrosion on the outside (behind the fender) Sometimes they fail and leak inside the cab too.

This is D not L Jetronic from 914

Maybe try to take these two items and run with them for us. We are all interested: http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/injection/us_tr7/tr7ecu.htm http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/44688-280z-fuel-injection-good-system.html#post384761 Some initial goals (useful to all of us for tuning) to figure out would be: 1. How to independently vary A/F at idle 2. How to independently vary A/F at WOT 3. How to independently vary A/F at cruise

Try using a mild form of lock-tite or better yet, a dab of silicon, or caulking, etc. Do not use a glue.

Also there are 2 holes in the gasket between 5 & 6, the one on the manifold side of the block seems to be a blocked up water passage?

hmmm looking at my tech tip I am wondering if upside down thrust bearings could be a cause? As mentioned, the rears have no thrust bearing but rather a rubber doughnut shaped spacer.

I am nearly certain the sound is from something rubber. The steering related items to check/listen closely would be: rubber dust cover on tie rod end rubber bump stop at top of strut rubber damper in strut mount rubber bellows dust seal on strut Some pics here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/tokicoupgrade/tokicoinstallfront.htm As Mark says, try to listen closely to each. You can also try lubricating each with lithium grease spray

With the weber you may end up setting your idle to 1000rpm so it would already be relatively fast and should be able to handle the AC load. Tapping a runner for idle vacuum would be easy but setting up a fast idle with air for each runner would be similar but more complex as you will need some sort of controlled air device to leak just after the throttle valve. An alternate way would be to hook up some electromechanical system for opening the throttle at the linkage. I'd try AC w/o the controls first to see if it affects your performance and ease of driving at idle.

I'm still laughing at the sound your car makes Sooooo funny.

That makes sense. Maybe the rubber insert spacers were accidentally used in the front where the bearing is supposed to go?

#4 intake valve has the most crud caked on it. I think it is the problem child cylinder. Pop the exhaust valve and clean the carbon to look for a crack below the exhaust liner.

Check alternator output too. If the voltage drops under low RPM then relays can click however I think it is what Zed Head mentioned.

that is a funny sound... like trying to make a balloon animal. I could only guess the tire on the concrete but I know it is wrong. Is an endlink rubbing on a control arm?

btw there is a lot of rust and sludge in that block. when you get it reassembled, flush it well.

It was just steel tube on my Ilumina's

Looks like water was going from cylinder 4 to 3 both over and under the gasket (water/rust marks in pics below). The dimple for piston forward orientation may be part of the fundamental problem with these engines and hot gas blasting the gasket. I think you will find cracks in the head in 4 and maybe 3. If you get a new head get an N42 with no liners to avoid cracks Also if you get a high lift cam you may need new lash pads to get the correct wipe pattern on the rockers.

FYI: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/tech-pubs-howto/42420-77-280z-head-removal-%5Bstep-step-photos%5D.html

Try starting with the hood up and rad cap off... if you see old faithful then you have combustion going into coolant...probably just the head gasket.

The dyno will exert reverse forces on the drive train when the run is finished and the gas pedal released. Maybe that is a clue.

Good news is that a head swap or gasket replacement is easy for you and not expensive. Even a head skim (warped) is cheap. Your first step is to localize and identify the cause. Driving may be ok. That is a lot of steam so the police may raise an eyebrow. Re-torquing head bolts may help a bit if it is the gasket. Also check oil to see if coolant is entering. The fluids flow with pressure and there are a few combo's to note: oil will go into coolant when oil is pumping as the pressure is higher coolant will go into oil when car is stopped but hot (oil pump is 0psi and coolant may be up to 13psi) coolant will go into combustion chamber after car is turned off but off (coolant may be up to 13psi) coolant will go into combustion chamber on intake stroke (chamber is -15psi and coolant may be up to 13psi combustion gas can go into rad during driving on power stroke... the intense pressure makes a geyser if you have the rad cap off Oil usually goes into combustion chamber - from below when running (bad rings/walls) - from above when off (valve seals)... as you know - from above when over run (high rpm vacuum)

Look at your plugs. Also crank the motor with the plugs out and EFI depowered. See if coolant comes out. Check compression cold and also hot. Could be a cracked head. N47's like to do this...... what's the line on that ZX engine? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/head/crackedhead/index.htm

I need that chassis to give vin147 new life but you and I are on opposite oceans. I'll buy some of the small stuff if you part it out.

Supplement pay to congress with a 90% pay cheque and 10% equivalent in corn cobs dumped on the front steps a la farmers in France style. Free-dumb Corn

There is a guy on this forum in Wa looking for an early Z. He may be interested.