240260280z

Jon, For Norm it matters, for most of us non-racers we just have to push the pedal down an extra 1mm to get that 5HP when required

I used a precision rubber seal from the full weather kit that MSA sells. It was very nice. You may be able to register the distances from the cowl screw holes in this photo.

Common problems with these symptoms are: Battery weak from not charging. Check the battery voltage ~ 1 hr or more after your last attempt to start or drive.: - 12.0V is fully depleted - 12.8V is fully charged (Yes the battery range is only 0.8V) - If you get the car going then check the battery voltage (you are now measuring the voltage applied to the battery to charge itand it should range from 13.5V to 14.5V) Faulty Alternator and voltage regulator (last step above) If the above quick checks are ok then the problem may be the wiring to the starter and ignition key switch. To resolve the quick and dirty way: clean all electrical connections from battery to starter and ground as well as from starter solenoid as well as the ignition connections behind the key switch. Consulting a schematic and factory service manual will help with chasing the wires (both available on line). Sometimes the solenoid in the started simply wears out as well as the ignition switch behind the key. These would have to be refreshed or replaced.

All Z's I have seen in Europe via photos have been superb! I assume you will do the same. Welcome.

It is a 100% manual steering system with no power assist. Pumping tires to the proper or even higher pressure helps. You can also get a bigger steering wheel to give more mechanical advantage. Narrower front tires can also reduce the required strength. Finally you can buy new electrical power steering systems or cobble in a fluid based power steering rack from a Subaru.

Pull the hose off the fuel rail at the return line's connection. I believe the rails fitting has a cap/plug stopped down by a small hole drilled in it.

Could be fuel delivery problem. What is fuel pressure? You can try pinching off the return fuel line for a quick and dirty test to see if it makes a difference. I also had a points car that went weaker at high RPM's and this seemed like a fuel issue. After checking everything it turned out to be the distributor, however your checks above seem to have ruled that out.

You can rebuild the pump. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?33334-Rebuild-a-240Z-mechanical-fuel-pump Maybe get a used one and take the best parts from both. I took one apart years ago and I believe the spring and the check valve are part of the pressure regulation. Also check to ensure that your fuel system has a small orifice on the return.

K&N make some but they don't look right. Check dia too: EBAY in NJ http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Stub-Stack-85-5039-/310221606530?hash=item483aa60e82&item=310221606530&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_2229wt_1140 It seems that UK is where to get the better shaped ones. (Or Brit Car Enthusiast / Vendor http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?42,544271) I would recommend taking a carb and photo to a machine shop and have them make two on lathes.

Usually it is the heat shield under the intake. Rev the motor by hand slowly until you hit the rpm where the part vibrates Use your ears to find where the noise is coming from Grab the noise part with your gloved hand if safe to do (nothing will burn or grab your hand/sleeve).

Now you tell me

If you are referring to the smaller hardware on the hanging plates and U clamps or the differential/control arm cross member that hold the control arms: Take another out then go to hardware store (in another car) or order from nissan Apart from the big beastie in the photo above, I think most are M8 and M10... not sure of thread... usually 1.25 but could be 1.5 so buy both threads if at a hardware store.

Do you have a bent needle in a carb that sticks as it rises? If idle is ok and WOT is OK then the only transitional factors are: 1. rate at which carb piston rises - too fast and you go lean for a bit - sticking and you go lean for a bit 2. fuel delivery - weak pump or low default level ... but this seems unlikely if you have power back at WOT 3. Funky timing - but you checked it ok

Cut away 4to6 and run on 1to3. You will have to weld up some baffles for water and oil.

I'm in Boca now planning to crash it but I may not make it due to business... I'll try. Brought a couple of AltanticZ hats too. I should be able to drop them off with someone before Thursday. PM Me.

Read this stuff: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43229-SU-Mod-(lifted-from-the-net)

check this:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?17999-73-Z-door-latch-bushing-thickness

For your reference: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

NICE! Young Green Grasshopper: I would recommend trying to use clear vinyl tubing or layers of heat shrink on all of the push rods in the door mechanisms as they rattle. Don't forget to glue a rubber pad at the bottom inside of the door where the window will hit at full drop. Refreshing the grommet in the inner door lever is nice to do as well as installing a bumper for the tip. Finally, a rubber layer surrounding the first bump in the door's latching mechanism is supposed to help closing... search this one. I have not tried it yet.

Well add your green to the mix and we got the spectrum covered! I love your restoration! Perfection!

The window does not rattle as much. I can't comment on wind noise as I never drove the car before or after I will have that privilege in the spring.

Here is an ingenious method from: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm Remove the dome and main piston from each carb so you can look down the tip of both fuel nozzles. Screw each mixture nut exactly 10 turns down from fully up. Each full turn drops the nozzle tip 1 mm, so 10 turns puts the tip of the fuel nozzle 10 mm (1cm) down....which happens to be the 23mm float bowl level. Then look down the tip of each fuel nozzle and adjust each float to set the gas level at the fuel nozzle tip.