240260280z

Yup. I've seen references as "vibrating" contact. I have watched it and I do see a spark when it contacts. Not good for carbon buildup. The thing will work for ~ 30min then it slowly goes open.

Nice!

I made 3 attempts but the contacts carboned up: 1. Caig Deoxit 2. Burnishing 3. Burnishing and Deoxit I am wondering if twisting and shifting will cause two new fresh (and presumably plated) parts of the contacts to touch?

Prices just doubled because of that! Everyone looks cool in a Z

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/aar/index.html

WOW Thanks! Please send me pics if you can. I may be in Houston in November If I can reciprocate I will. I drove the red 71 for 500km with the spook @ 70-80mph and immediately after the blue 71 w/o the spook for the same time and speed. The spook really makes a difference, especially when passing big rigs; not so floaty.

Hi Kats, I spoke to my friend (original and current owner of 71 240z). He explained how the 240z waiting list went: 1. You signed up at the dealer and were added to the list. 2. As a car arrived, regardless of colour or transmission, the person at the top of the list was offered it. If that person refused, he was put at the bottom of the list. My friend was on it for nearly a year up to April 1971 but never made it to the top. When he travelled to western Canada in April 71 for work as a student, he just landed and enroute to the hotel, he saw a Datsun dealer with two red Z's. He quickly checked into the hotel then had the taxi return him to see the Datsun dealer. The dealer said the two red Z's just arrived that morning and one was sold. My friend bought the other on the spot. The date of mfgr was Jan 1971 but most of the date stamps on the parts were Nov-Dec 1970.

Returned Jan 1971 240z to its original owner after restoration. 500km drive to deliver. Enjoyable and very peppy motor. Picked up a Dec 1971 240z to restore for myself. Only 86,000km. Very quiet differential and 1/2hafts...never ever experienced that. Motor purrs and it difficult to hear at idle. Some rust and bumps from over the years but solid and original. Was 112 Yellow but someone canned-it blue. Not sure what colour to paint it. Japanese racing white maybe. I just plan to simply refresh the parts and plate all of the metal. I'll try to keep as much stock as I can. Still wondering if I should keep it electric lime.

Most seem to set it at 3.5psi but I have seen it recommended as low as 2.5psi.

The car is much quieter and not smelly.

Look in front wheel wells on the inner back side where the frame rails drop to the cockpit look Look under the battery area Look where the front sway bar attaches to the engine rails Open the hatch and look at the flat area between the tail lights Look at the front fenders down below where they meet the door. Look between the rear wheel well and the door

Source: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3292253588.html

I like to use these dollar-store-tool-section calipers. You can buy two and lock one at 29.0mm and the other at 29.5mm for go/no-go probing.

<<< USE 29mm rather than 25mm >>>> 25mm causes a huge rich spot when cruising at highway speeds!!!!! Use a flashlight when probing.

Photo of correct fuel level in the main jet well of a DCOE 40 151 carb. You can see the faint fuel level ~ 25mm down from the top of the well. You can also see the exit port to the main venturi nozzle 23mm down.

http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/itb_set-up_681235.0.html

Call in a body guy.

The saved Wayback website w contact info from July: http://web.archive.org/web/20110720114835/http://www.gangloadoparts.com/z/id2.html

Kind of ironic signature: [TABLE=width: 500] <tbody>[TR] [TD]Speeding is fun, As long as you out run, The cops! ! ! ~Z~ Seek Truth ウイングゼロ 競争 GangLoadOParts.com[/TD] [TD]Fraud us fun As long as you don't get caught Warm comfort line My website was only temporary[/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

I am luck that there is a great boating supply store near me with lots of ss metric. I can send 6 nuts back to AB. with a friend on this forum who is visiting if you like? I think I can get bigger body nuts and thinner ones with the same internal hole and thread however you should probably stay with stock part for a 70 series 1.

I tried this stuff to remove glue on the pretty side of the vinyl. Works great with a rag. It also makes the vinyl black and shiny as Alan mentions above for the Concept Chemicals' Product that he gets @ ~ 0 longitude.

Need a nut on the front left strut insulator

Just adding to this old thread: Item to refresh: very stiff and mildly dirty 240z shift boot. 1. Wash with soapy hot water, full immersion: softens when hot but stiffens when cooled. No more dirt. 2. Lexol Leather conditioner rubbed on outside and inside. Darker colour but no softening. Still too stiff to use. 3. Turtle Wax Tar and Bug remover (old can from 90's) rubbed on inside and outside. Darker but no softening. Still to stiff to use. 4. Coleman Naptha poured then rubbed on inside and outside. Darker but no softening. Still to stiff to use. 5. Vaseline rubbed on inside and outside. Darker but no softening. Still to stiff to use. 6. Vaseline loaded boot folded and stuffed in zip-lock bag to let time have a go. My recommendation for CLEANING is hot water and soap then Naptha or Tar and Bug remover wipe. To be Continued (Time then heat gun on deck)

Silver is a beautiful motor colour... plus you can see leaks easy. Your hand-painting is a great idea. Now you can easily touch-up with a brush in the future and apply the paint thicker.