madkaw

To this point I would say go as big as a stage 3 . I know Chickenman is running a pretty large cam with the Bosch EFI with a little tweaking . Idle shouldnt be an issue , but can’t swear to that with the stock EFI. Probably with be a bit more stinky at idle. A 39cc chamber will get you around 9:1

Does the bottom end need rebuilt, or you are just wanting to try it?!The bottom ends are about bullet proof unless it’s been neglected . Should be able to tell that by how clean the inside of the valve cover looks. Does it use or blow smoke? You might pull the head off and still see the cross hatch marks in the cylinders. I’ve seen it on a motor with 100k + You could save $$ and time and aggravation and less down time with your car by not touching the short block except gaskets . You could improve CR with a smaller combustion chamber head . Instead of rebuilding that head you could put money towards a different head . Facing the block? Probably won’t need decked either. Now the head should be resurfaced if it has any defects or just for the HG longevity. Shorter valve seals or different valve springs for anything more then 460 lift cam. Probably get away with stock seals up to 480. Just throwing it out there

I’ve gotten confused about the plug pics. I thought you said that was an old pic. If so did you clean them and recheck? What did they look like after this last run ?

How do the plugs look?

You really the pressure is “way too high”. 2psi could be a gauge . Doubt that is any issue with his engine running poorly .

Yes. You have a center run . The video shared of the truck R&R had the same type structure on the A pillars . Does not work so well for trying to slug them together.

Starting to clean up things and staring at the task ahead

As promised. So more pics of ugly stuff. Obvious rust inside roof crossmember. Rust also ate away at the rear quarter where it wraps around under the quarter window. Fortunately there is a thick support panel behind it where the window bolts into. Also the rail panel that runs the length of the door and window was rotted pretty bad at the quarter window

I’ll load up more pics of the GUTS later

I don’t know if it’s brave or crazy. I have nothing to loose since the roof was toast. A good buddy has donated a roof for the cause . It’s not as terrible as one might think, but not something to take lightly. if the roof doesn’t get fixed - it’s a parts car This has been a tough decision . If the rest of the car was rusted badly I wouldn’t bother , but it’s a very solid 70

Targa time!

Maybe in Zurich ! But seriously , if someone added up all the parts , machine work , labor , it adds up fast . A mild performance head could be 1500$ easy. Not too many places to do any window shopping - lol

Do you think the kids understand?

Just watched the vids and my money is still on ignition. That ignition coil looks like the original . I was go to fuel last . The fact that it happened kind of all the sudden, I would think ignition.

Yes, Citizen Z is quite a character. I didn’t know I was going for a photo shoot when I drove up to see him. He is a Z enthusiast for sure. Funny thing is that when I went to see him I saw this 1970 he had and told him if he ever considered selling to let me know. Well I have it now. I miss those Mikunis , but can’t keep everything , I’m supporting a college kid

Surprised of the lack of speculation from our viewers -lol.

No insult taken, obviously there will be many perspectives on this. For someone that could build an engine themselves, would probably not spend as much money for a prebuilt motor. For someone that doesn’t have that skill and are just happy to have a ready to go drop in motor , they would pay more I am betting. The fact that size matters might not be true for everyone. Being a modified L24 might make up for it not being a L28. Someone might run it like it is and then take the head off and drop it on a L28 later.

Thinking I’m going to let me L24 go to help finance bigger displacement ventures. I’m not a numbers matching guy and my car is to modified to ever be “ correct” . This is the original head and block for this car. I would let go of the motor ID plate if wanted. Right now just interested in price ranges you guys come up with. Moderator - move this thread if not I appropriate location. Asking opinions on price for the complete long block. P30 block .30 over . Block includes timing cover , damper, water pump , NO flywheel E88 Head (9/71 car , so early head design like E31) chambers 37cc , so yes it’s been shaved. Isky 290/490 cam , Schneider springs, 44mm intake, 35mm exhaust, some blending work, but not really ported. Power band is 4000-7000rpm Head has been drilled to accept EFI, but it was originally SU carbs. Engine dynoed 155 rwhp .

Sounds like a good list. At least the car had some maintenance, maybe not recent, but some engines get no love. The AFM boots crack where you can’t see it, but maybe feel it, or remove and inspect.

You need to lean towards ignition first. Sounds like a weak spark that you have to rev the engine to keep it running. Have you checked spark color ? Have you inspected the dizzy cap for cracks. Is there moisture in the cap. Are the wires tight around the dizzy. Is the coil getting proper voltage? Is it putting out a blue spark? Now start on the fuel

Those are fuel fouled for sure. You need to test fuel pressure . Then start checking all connections. Read the EFI BIBLE , and get your multimeter out. Your pushing your luck with a 10 year old battery - regardless out how it tests. I don’t see anything about ignition checks ? Dizzy cap? Plug wires? Rotor? Timing ?

I did watch this - thank you .

One bed frame down!

Just drove it! Got a ignition problem fixed and made a club run with a local car club

I’ll take pics just to categorize the assembly for reassembly . Of course if I screw up or give up , I’ll have picks of parts in the classifieds -lol Currently working out the jig to keep things aligned . Need to find some more bed frames !