madkaw

Well I’ve developed a noise down below. Not sure what’s going on, but more than likely it’s time to pull the pan . Runs good, but maybe a rod didn’t like the initial abuse. It sucks , but this was a budget build so I can’t expect miracles . Might get lucky and find something came a little loose, but nothing wrong on top. The head is what I’m worried about - too much time invested there. The short block is stock . My helper is available by the end of the week to give me a hand for whatever I decide . I was planning on swapping transmissions anyway, but now it looks I’ll be pulling everything . This kid is good and we will have it on a stand in less than 3 hours . Takes a little pain out of the sting when you have a sidekick that can throw down a Snap on wrench faster than you can. I really want dyno numbers on the stock flat top so I and going to continue this mission before dropping in the 3.2- besides that short block is not finished. I’m determined to see 200 rwhp with his combo.

The unique part of the sale of my engine is that he got to ride in my car before the purchase. The way his eyes lit up during the test drive I knew it was sold. He couldn’t believe it was so fast( relative term for sure). As he left I told him(27 years of age and his first manual trans car) that he had more engine than car now - so be careful. I wish I knew the guy that sold him his car so I could forward him these pics . There’s no denying the facts here. And yes I got a good price and labor to install and tune his car. Like I said - he has more engine than car now in many ways $$$$$$ .

My BHJ damper is like that

Large chamber. I believe there are 4 versions actually . This is the open chamber version

So what dizzy are you running and what’s your timing?

View Advert E-88 head I head I just removed from a later 2.4 block. It had spun a bearing but the upper end seems to be fine. It looks original as far as valve sizes. It’s flat within .002 . Cam is in nice shape as well the rockers . Missing a couple of mouse trap springs . Make offer. Make it worth my while to pack and ship it and it’s yours . I have too many heads laying around now . I can send pics upon request. Advertiser madkaw Date 09/24/2019 Price $100.00 Category Parts for Sale

My 2 cents. Not sure why all the offset drilling/ bushing stuff . I’m betting the stock timing could be achievable with just advancing the sprocket , or at least be close enough. That gives you 8 degrees in hole 3. My 2.4 was shaved .050 and ran 8 degrees valve timing advance . You could always go another tooth for more . Worst case scenario is your rpm power band would be somewhat off from stock.

The engine looked good besides this . It was salvageable but ended up at the recycle center . The rest of the car was riddled with half-assed’ness. SU carbs were way out of whack too.

Customer who bought my L24 brought me his car to install the engine. It had a horrible knock but ran. He left the other day a happy guy with his new power plant . I was able to tear his motor down to show him some of the issues before he left . He had bought the car and it basically blew up in him 2 days after he got it. The seller didn’t take any responsibility for any engine issues. He had just put it together and knew it was good. Pictures tell a thousand lies. I didn’t get a picture of number 5 rod journal that had spun its bearing

210 average by the gauge

Not sure I will do ITB’s. I have a custom plenum I’m building for NA or turbo. One TB to mess with and tune . I do like the look and maybe I’ll go that route some day . I have a diesel manifold that I would love to run also - just something different .

Just love breaking this engine in! The torque is very strong. I’ve limited myself to 5500 at this point, but still pulling very strong. Have to be careful not to hit it too hard in lower gears or I just break the tires loose. Able to run 35 degrees timing so far, but probably close to the limit. Need to break this bad boy in and and get to the dyno to dial it in. Running very similar tune I did with my 2.4, just more fuel. Seems to be doing rather well on the MPG- beauty of EFI. On the dyno I will probably advance the cam a bit too if I can get away with it. I’ll see where the power curve comes in. Took a peek at the cam and everything looks peachy. Just finishing up the install of my old motor in to the customers car. After it’s gone I can devote more time to tuning. Right now just driving around and letting Megasquirt do it’s thing.

My 2 cents . I agree with the diagram above. Your chain wears which changes the relative position of the cam to the crank. Flipping around the sprocket to a different index hole and ALIGNING the cam to that hole advances the cam. I’ve done a lot of cam degree-ing with a fresh chain and sprocket . You have to move the cam in order to get the sprocket to index in. Nothing gets moved on the chain. Not sure if that helped or not.

Lovely ! The cam makes for a very exotic sputter at idle. Trying to be patient before thumping on it too hard. Hasn’t seen more than 4500 rpm yet. Much more torque than the 2.4 for sure .

I offered to paint the engine for the guy so he wouldn’t have a red engine in a green car. He picked gold - and I’m digging it- lol - get it!

I just tried it and it worked fine .

Oops

Really gets fuzzy when you decide you want to advance the cam 9 degrees

Not sure anyone referencing this thread will get anything out of it but confusion.

How much Cylinder pressure ? Lots! 97B3B5AA-2FDF-4291-8C4F-C375C5E536AC.MOV

Just did that !

Rut roh - maybe more than I thought ? And I shaved .005 off the block -eek Should be .049 or 1.25mm thick.

Well the MN47/54 ran today for the first time . Talk about nervous . 11.25:1 sounds pretty good out the tail pipe. This cam sounds pretty radical too. Only ran it long enough to move my car out of the way, but wow- can’t wait !

I would say true. Closing the intake valve earlier will get some low end grunt .