Ivan

hmm, even if you did have a place to build it, are you keen on building up a car or owning a 240? You might find it frustrating 2 years on, having spent twice what you expected (and have a girlfriend who has begining to hat.. no dislike the car) keep looking though, every so often a good one comes through at the right price that's all in one piece.

the 200zr (Jap only z31 with rb20det) has mounts / oil pan / oil pickup that will bolt onto a rb20 / rb25 (mods still needed for a rb26) I have written down the nissan part numbers on this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4098&perpage=15&highlight=200zr&pagenumber=3

Yeah how can anyone not see that as a joke? (and there the ones calling him a dumb arse) "In the summer the doors can be removed in the back instantly transforming this car into a civic with no rear doors." hahahaha

thanks George, appreciate it.

Hi, I'm moving over to either Wollongong or Sydney in January, does anyone know or can direct me in the correct path for your car import laws? (for my '72 240z that is). Thanks, Ivan

iitenrestg

Anyone from Nelson here? What's a ewe?

This happened to me on Sun while rewiring the lights and etc. My problem was the light/indicator structure was connected to the steering column incorrectly and shorted out on the ignition structure.

wow, anyone a stamp collector?

The '75 and '76 have a built in surge tank as well, not that it really makes much difference to a road going carbed engine.

hmm, for someone to go to the trouble of opening the bonnet to see why the car wasn't going would seem to imply they were specificly after a Z, probably to order. Do something or they might try again, do you have an electric fuel pump?

have you put a 280's bonnet on? - I personaly think it looks better with no vents (i.e. a 240 bonnet) the colour looks nice on the 350 so it should look even better on a 240 and personally I would go with the RB as I don't like 4 bangers but you mentioned not having much money so be ready to spend around $5000 - $10000 for the conversion

hmm best put mine back on as well, thanks BambiKiller240

possible yes, I have see a couple web sites with it done (no instructions on how they did it though).

is removing the bumpers altogeather an option?

I think this is supposed to be a replica cobra kit, there used to be Z conversions like the 250GTO, don't know if any still exist but there are a few kits based on custon chassis: http://www.daytona-coupe.com/products/kitdescriptions.html

with 410hp!

used to have a red one :-> , had to sell it :-(, for the 240 :-> and now my flat mate has bought a burgandy one :-( but he lets me drive it sometimes :-)

brilliant

FYI: The air compressor break bleeder fixed it thanks to all who replied

Hi, thanks for your replies, I didn't know how the break balancer was supposed to be hooked up (I bought the car with every thing already pulled apart) so is this correct (see attached picture) I've got a air compressor break bleeder I can try, if that doesn't work I will pull it all apart again and see if there is anything obvious. Thanks, Ivan

that is pretty funny

Sorry I'll try again, I have made new break lines, the master cylinder has been reconditioned by a break shop, I bleed the rear lines, no problems, nothing happens when I try the front ones, so I tried the master cylinder bleed valves, the primary reservoir (that feeds the front breaks) nothing happens, I thought maybe the rod that comes out of the (power break booster, vacuumed booster, break booster, what ever you want to call it) that goes into the master cylinder wasn't coming far enough back to allow fluid to come out of the primary reservoir. (I was told this is called clearance) on closer inspection I noticed a notch in that rod that limits how far back that rod goes into the break booster, Any suggestions? thanks, Ivan

it kinda seems like a clearance issue but the pin in the power break booster won't come out any further (is it supposed to?)

sorry I meant the fluid won't even come out the master cylinder bleed valves