peng155

Thanks for clarifying that Capt. I am working on a 71, but at the time I posted my question I couldn't readily find the correct picture... so I just pulled one that showed something similar, but not exactly what a 71 is.... Thanks for the info, and sorry for the confusion... But you and the other guy's did provided me the answer I was looking for, which was how to read these switch diagrams .... Many Thanks.....

Great, thanks for the info... Just wanted to make sure I was interpreting the drawing correctly

Hey Guy's, A quick general question about the ignition switch diagram in the FSM.... I need to find a wire that has power on it when the ignition switch is in the start/on position... For the following diagram Would I be correct that I could tap into the wire coming off of position 14, or 16 provided that they had +12vdc going to them from somewhere? Thanks

Thanks Rossiz

Rossiz... I never really thought about a plug kit... I'll have to look into that.. also can you post some info on the compressor that screws into the spark plug hole?? That sounds real interesting ... Thanks for your guy's input.... I'm probably gonna keep the spare in the car for the time being... and look into one of those external powered sub-woofer tubes.

Oilju, This is exactly my thoughts as well....

Hey Folks.... Question for you... I was thinking of ditching my spare tire to put in a stereo sub-woofer in the spare wheel well... It's been a while since I've had a flat on any of my cars.. but still I prefer to be safe then sorry... Anyone here ever use that Air & Seal flat repair stuff... I assume it only for emergency repair of the tire to get you to the nearest gas station/tire repair joint... I was just wondering how well it worked.. and if it can screw up the balance of the tire one way or another.. Thanks

Hey Walter... I've been thinking about the same thing off and on with regards to the breaks on the car... My Fall/Winter project will probably be to install a Wilwood front disk brake upgrade.

Hey Folks, Now that I finally have the car running, in pretty fine shape I've been contemplating what to do next... The suspension is pretty much stock, as is the engine (original L24 with 120K miles).. The engine seems to be in pretty good shape.. still pulls real strong.. only thing is it might need is new valve seals. I've been thinking of either having the original engine rebuilt, or swap in a 280zx turbo engine, or swap in a Rebello built 3.0 engine.. I'm sort of leaning towards the Rebello option with either stock SU's or a pair of the modified SU's to start with, and then swap the SU's out for an after market FI system at a later date. I figure the motor will run me about 5-6K, and the FI another 2-3K... Oh I forgot this is like a 2-3yr project (engine swap, drive for a year or so, then FI swap) wasn't planning, and can't afford to dump all of the green backs at once.... What has complicated the decision making is that while I was visiting my body/painter guy the other day to discuss having a bit of work done on the car.... he mentions that he has another customer who might be looking to sell his Datsun 510, not sure what the year is... but I've been sort of looking for a 510 and depending on the condition of this one, and provided it's for sale.. I'm sort of at a cross road of what to do. My 'Z' is strictly a summer cruiser, take it to the Datsun-Nissan-Z get together, not planning on any tracking, or x-crossing the cars.. So I'm looking at spending say 10k on either a motor, or possibly a 510. What do you guy's think?? And no I really don't need another car in the garage

Hey Steve, I think you're right..... I've been fiddling around with it for a bit now, and I don't see anyway for it to come out.... thanks

Another question for everyone Does anyone know if, or how the top lamp assembly can be removed from the housing? The part I'm talking about is the 1-1/2 inch center disk. I'd like to send my inspection light housing in to have a new zinc coating applied to them so that they're nice and shiny again. thanks

Thanks Zed.... I follow your advice and see if maybe the dis-coloration, and melting is old damage caused prior to me installing the relays.... I also had Dave rebuild both my turn, and head light stock.... Something i just thought of..... with the relay upgrade in place... would I, and should I see the amp meter indicate high current (needle points to the + side of the meter) flow with the head light on?

Hi Carl, No the wire harness wasn't modified... If I recall correctly... the White, and White/Red wire that was connected to the original fuse box was wired directly to Voltage reg. and to the fuseible link.... I didn't see any connectors for these two wires.... Unless I didn't cut the tape around the wire harness back far enough to expose it When i did a search last night on my problem I saw a picture of the back side of the box with the two connectors that go to the wire harness, and then the White, and White/red wire... Found some pictures.... This first one is from a post by Mikes Z car, showing the connectors for the two high current wires.. Unfortunately I didn't have them in my wire harness this second picture from a post by Blue shows how my looked before i spliced in the new box The two White wires appeared to be direct runs, with no intermediate connector....

Hey Zed, I forgot to mention that I already have installed Dave's headlight, and parking light relay upgrade, sorry about that.... Pretty much any high current accessory... driving lights, airhorn, rear window defrost/defog has been has been modified with a relay. I will say that I didn't do the relay upgrade right away..... so the deformation Of the butt splice insulation, and wire insulation might have occured prior to the relay install. With that being said do you think I need to replace the wires? Thanks

Hi Folks.... New question... When I got the 'Z' the fuse box suffered the usual melted plastic around the fuse holder problem from the high current draw of the lights and accessories through the fuses. I changed out the fuse box with a new MSA replacement about 10 or so yrs ago. I had to cut the White, and White/Red wires to remove the old fuse box, and I butt spliced the new one in... when I stripped the wires to do the splice I had a look at both of the wires, and did notice that they were pretty well oxidized... I cleaned off the ends as best as I could with some emery cloth, and spliced in the new box. I also did the one-wire GM internal regulator conversion, I installed a GM/AC Delco SI 10 alternator (I think the 65amp version) Fast forward to today... while installing the new voltmeter I noticed that the butt splice insulators on the splices to the fuse box had melted, and deformed due to heat.. (I'm going to assume its from the high resistance of the wires due to age)...... I'm thinking of replacing a section of both the White, and White/Red wire from the engine compartment to the fuse box. Per the FSM... The White/Red wire at the fuse box should be a direct run to one side of the fusible link, thru the link, and to the Alternator output post. The White wire from the fuse box goes to one side of the Amp meter, and has a splice somewhere to the old external voltage reg. which has since long been removed when I did the conversion to the internal reg. alternator. Correct me if I am wrong.... I should be able to run a new White/Red wire directly from the fusible link to replace the current one going to the fuse box, And a new White wire from the amp meter to the fuse box to replace the other wire... is this correct?? Or are there other factory tap's, and splices I'm not taking into account?? thanks for the help....

Hey Guy's I thought I'd post up an update on my ride quality issues.... I'm afraid to admit this but part of my problem was low air pressure in the tires..... they were about 30psi.... I filled them up to 33psi.... and that helped the ride quality quite a bit.... I also spoke to a friend and he thinks If I replace the tires that'll help some more since he thinks the tires are probably alot less plyable due to age.... Since the car will be going back into storage soon with fall on the way..... new tires can wait till next spring.... Thanks for all of the suggestions, help, and info...