Jayru

Ed, I've recently replaced the strut's/springs, that fixed other problems (bottoming out/thumping) the bump stops had deteriorated completely. I had bought Poly bushings but the original owner had replaced many of the bushings a few years ago, so they were not needed. On a side note, the PO kept books of records on the car including dates and times of all things replaced/done. Kinda neat, although a little anal if you ask me So it's not an issue of suspension looseness, the car handles great. It's just a flimsyness feeling of the body itself. Think of a peice of plywood flexing up and down or side to side, that's kind of what i'm talking about. I'm going to start saving for some strut bars and maybe some new longer/stronger frame connectors underneath. 71zzzz, thanks for that pic and name of the company who makes it. I couldn't remember where i had seen a bar like that, but that's the one i want. Thanks, Jay

Hi Guys, I have been injoying my 240Z for a while now, but one thing is really bothering me about it. The chassis rattles/squeaks and is just generally loose while driving. Drive into a driveway and feel the car twist, hit a bump and feel the chassis flex, rattle, etc... It's not a structural rust problem because the car is solid metal wise in all the key areas. I know the metal is a little thin from the factory to begin with, so is this just a common problem with these cars? What can i do to stiffen it up (Besides welding a cage in)? Are strut tower bars worth the money? Do they do a good job of stiffening up the car? Any better to go with the more elaborate ones that attach at multiple locations (front & rear)? Let me know. Thanks, Jay

Maybe i'm an exception, and i'm probably jinx'ing myself right now, but i love my SU's. This was my first ever carberated car and i was real skeptical of the SU's, and carbs in general. I spent a little time studying how they work, then tuning them, and my car runs great. It starts and runs great right away (even when ice cold in the winter). Everyone seems to think their (SU's) tempermental, a pain to tune, and not as good/reliable for daily driving. I don't see how that's true, unless of course i just have been lucky so far. :classic: *edit* Didn't read your last post about power and turbocharging...

Classic tube sells an entire kit for every brake line in the car (front to back) with fittings for $225? Or is that just the two long lines under the car?

I can attest to that. I just swaped my sagging rear suspension for a set of tokico illuminas and matching springs (Which were supposed to lower the car 1"). The car sit's exactly the same.

The only difference i see between the two visually is the bumpers and turn signals/taillights. Am i missing something? What else is different between them, besides drivetrain of course?

Sent you a PM.

So is this ospho stuff like POR-15? I went to the web site and it seems 100 times easier to use and does the same effect. Seems like the best/easiest rust converter i've seen yet. Am i missing something?

Does media blasting remove any bondo/fiberglass work that was done on the car, or is it just strong enough to remove the paint and expose the bondo?

This was used by the radiator shop that boiled out my gas tank to seal it. It seems to have worked well, although it has only been a few months, no complaints so far. It is really pliable though. There was some residule on the outside of the tank and i could literally peel it off with my finger, so i was initally concerned with it's ammount of protection. I don't know if the outside of the tank being painted had something to do with it (Couldn't bond)? but i tried to do the same inside the filler neck and it wouldn't come off, so who knows. Hope this helps.

Thanks guys! Now i just need some place to go this weekend :classic:

Hi Guys, I've had my Z for ~6 months now and have been repairing/tuning the car to get rid of all the common Z bugs/problems over the past few months. I finally have the car running great with a lot of new parts! So here's my question. I finally feel comfortable enough to take the car on a long trip, but with the current summer heat i'm afraid of experiencing vapor lock problems (everyone seems to speak of) if driven for a long period of time. I have never driven the car but for locally up to now (15-20 min at the most). How often does this problem occur? How hot does it have to be/how long before it happens? What exactly happens when you experience it (It's my 1'st carburated car). The absolute worst thing for me is being stuck on the side of the road somewhere. Am i being paranoid? Thanks, Jay

I'm having the same problem, only it takes 2 weeks for my battery to go dead. I can't seem to find a drain anywhere. Is it so small that it won't even register on an amp meter? Is there a common slow drain on these cars?

What is involved with the valve ajustment as far as symptoms of the car needing one? My valves make no noise so i'm assuming that they don't need one, correct? I still don't feel the car is where it should be on power so i'm trying to explore all options... I've done everything in a "Tune up" sense except for ajusting the valves.

I'm back in the land of Z driving again. As some may remember, i sent the gas tank out (Boiled/sealed) after it left me on the side of the road a few weeks back. After i replaced all the vent lines and re-installed the fresh tank, i got to enjoy the car for a wopping 30 min before it left me on the side of the road again The slave cyl blew out and i lost my clutch, so i limped her home shifting by rpm and ordered all new parts for the clutch hydrolic system (SS line, new slave, master) but while i was under the hood fixing that i noticed the master cyl (brakes) was leaking from the back seal :0 So i ordered one of those as well. So after finally getting all the parts and finding time to do the work (I work/live in NYC all week and only come back to PA on weekends now, it eats up all my time), she's finally up and running again. I'm glad to have the car driveable and not on jackstands anymore, i missed driving her, and now i know the brake/clutch system is sound with all new fluid throughout. Just got back from a nice hour drive and I'm excited, so i thought i'd share...

Do you notice the lights dim in the car when you have the problem? I had the almost same problem and it turned out to be a bad alternator (Starving the car of spark). Just a suggestion.

My slave cylinder took a $^!# on me yesterday. I'm going to replace everything; slave/master, ss line, etc. The only part i can't find is the spring. Mine is rusty and about to break. I searched but can't find any mention of it. Thanks...

? I've never seen this...

jmortensen, so you're saying just let the control arm come down slowly with a floor jack after you have removed the nut from inside the car correct? Will this work for both the front/rear? That's the way i imagined i'd do it. So there's enough play to swing the arm down far enough to get the spring off the strut while it's still atached to the arm? Do you have to disconnect the brake lines, axels, etc?

I have owned two 90-96 TT Z's over the years and i must say they are my favroite Z. They're a gorgeous looking car, the handling in those cars is amazing, the power is subtantial, and the ride quality/creature comforts are un-matched by even today's cars. When i get to a comfortable point in my life again i will own another one. My 94 TT went low 12's on stock turbos with 18's and a killer stereo, handled like it was on rails, and i could still take the t-tops off and cruise. The only thing that sucks about them is the fact that their a pain to work on. I have fallen in love with the retro looks of my 240z though, which is why i bought one, but the power/handling/comfort leaves much for me to be desired. Although i lt's a much different (and welcomed) driving feel compared to my old 300zx. I know it's apples to oranges to compare the two, their both great for what they are/when they were produced. Here's a pic of my old 300zx, sold it for the down payment on my house...

I just took my tank to a local radiator shop and they sent it out to be boiled out. When they got it back they lined the inside. They drilled one hole in the side to let the liner goo drain out, which they pluged with a bolt like the drain on the bottom. Total cost was $120. They even bead blasted my tank straps for an extra $30. I'd look at some local shops in your area. My tank had very minimal rust though.

Off topic: Does the Bellmore train station car show go on anymore? I used to go there every friday night as a teen. Great times.

I understand Carl, it just seems you are always so quick to blame crud in the tank for my problems. It wasn't the case before and it may not be now. But i understand you are speaking from experience, i can only tell you what i can see here looking at the car, and their didn't seem to be any overwhelming ammount of dirt that could physically block anything. But then again i can't see all the way inside. I am going to find a place locally to clean the tank and then that particular piece of the puzzle will be solved. Only the one vent line is blocked, and it doesn't appear i can unblock it (filled with resin). Mising this one vent offers no ill effects? Why are their so many in the first place? Wouldn't one (upper) vented to the filler neck simply solve the venting problem? Brett, Yes, that is what i have been doing and their has been no evidence of a clog. That's why i was wondering what else could be happening here (Some kind of vaccum or lack of because of the vent system not allowing fuel to be drawn into the lines, etc) All lines are clear (Blew air through them) I can't tell if the hoses are cracked though. They are most definatly the original ones, so i will replace them all, clean the tank and hope it doesn't leave me stranded when the fuel level gets low again. Thanks

Carl, are you lisening to what i'm saying? The last time you told me it was rust/crud it was my alternator, what will it end up being this time? The lines are clean, as well as the tank, except for the most minute amount of dirt. My fuel filter has been clean since i started driving this thing (after i swapped out the original one). If their was all this crud in there like you always suggest (Blocking my lines), my filter would be filled with the stuff, which it is Not. I will have the tank cleaned (since it's already out) But i don't think that (since it's almost clean already) is my problem here.