Daniel

Did you buy it like this.Have you ever had it running?carbs or F.I.?I like the "pulling the plugs".That takes away all compression ,If it doesn't spin fast then ,you have a problem.Make sure the battery ground at the starter end is nice clean and shiny metal.Also that the battery wires are good, clean .tight, haven't sucked up corrosion into the cable

Ok heres the story.1990 300z,wifes car,Kills battery after 3 days of sitting.I put a test light on the neg.battery and clip to the neg wire. Light shines bright.I disconnect the small pos.cable that runs the car electrics. No change.The large pos goes straight to the soleniod.I unhook the starter from the soleniod.No change.I discon. the large wire from the solenoid.Problem gone.Check the solenoid for ANY problem,loose post,hairline cracks, continuity,All is well.Run a jumper from large cable starter end to soleniod.No problem.Perhaps its the nut tightening on the solenoid post that is the trouble.NO.Why is it the cable must be attached for the demon to appear???When it is attached it is touching NOTHING!!!but what it should.I put two flat washers on the solenoid post before attaching the cable.NO PROBLEM!!!It was a fluke I say.Remove the washers ,Problem,put them back No problem.The car has never been touched there.EVER.I know sometimes you just don't ask why but damn!!!

I don't think you have a fuel / pump problem.My Z has done that same thing forever.So does my '46 chevy truck with mech.pump.I can turn off my Z and within a very short time remove the fuel filter with little fuel loss.Hit the switch and its full (with the standard air bubble)in seconds.The carb bowls hold enough fuel to compensate for the moment of air is my guess.If mine sits for a month or so I have to crank it a little more.Once it starts I just bump the starter to crank it any time hot or cold.I can leave it overnight,over a weekend whatever it cranks up fast.Its just a month or more then its crank for about 6 seconds,Stop and put my seatbelt on.Crank for 6 seconds.Stop and put my windows down.Turn the key Vroooom!!

I would recommend biting the bullet and go nissan factory from your dealer.Then it will be years before you do this again.The clutch is one place you can't shop price.Do it right and move on to something else.

While your there---when the flywheel is removed you will see a rubber doughnut type seal.That is the rear end of the crankshaft.You won't get a better time to replace it.If it leaks it can waste your new clutch.Pop it out ,pop in the new.One also lives at the front/ rear of the tranny and is just as easy to replace.

The haynes drawing shows two rods inside the booster that push the mstr to move.I would be interested in knowing with the mstr cyl removed or out of the way,how much push you were getting,how much travel the pedal made before the mstr cyl pushrod moved..Perhaps put a board in front of it and have someone push the brake pedal to see if you can hold it back.Also there is an adjustment on the pedal.Maybe it just needs a little more lenght forthe new mstr cyl.I now think I had to adjust mine.Good luck ,let me know.Oh check the distance the pushrod is from the push cup in the mstr.There are a couple of flavors out there and some are more recessed than others.

Back then you could still find good unit in the boneyard.

A friends dad was doing an old tank.He put whatever cleaner in it,put some large rocks in the tank,sealed all the holes,Strapped it on the hood on his riding mower and cut his yard,turning it every so often to a different angle.When he finished it was polished on the inside!!The vibration and the stones did a great job.Just make sure the size cant get hung in those baffles and make sure you get out the same number you put in.

I fought a similiar demon on a 71 years ago.The problem was the brake booster.I had been told that if it failed the results would be you would just have no power assist for the brakes.That is not true..I tried the same things you did,with no success.They would not bleed.Sometimes hard,then soft.I took apart that front /rear valve.It was a ball and a spring.Your problem seems very similar

Lots of nice fall days are great for a z cruise.A trip to the mountains or the evening or morning will make you wish you had that heater.Your wife/girlfriend will want it also.It cost nothing to run,not like A.C..I see no benefit in removing it.

I think I saw that guy yesterday.I said look dead bird.He looked up at sky and said WHERE!! :stupid:

O.K. new theory.Use a cardboard box and duct tape.make a duct that connects the box fan to the INTAKE of the fan and attach to the window,the fan is now outside the car.With the fan on high ,now drawing air from the car,Use plastic wrap, like from the kitchen and cover an area at a time letting static cover the opening where gasket are supposed to be doing there jobs.Now we have negative air flow.We would think the wrap would respond as to the problem areas.---Just a theory---

What the status of the rubber pieces that seal the shifter/tranny hole?The theory is "what if" you lay your seats forward and put one of those 30" or so box fans in the car.You would seal the window where the power cord went thru.With the fan on inside the car you then go around the outside of the car seams/openings with soap foam.Wouldn't we think that we would see blowing bubble or some activity at the leaks?----Just a theory.

Some Z's came without the bracket for a rear sway bar.I found this out when I got a msa/front/rear sway kit.Thanks victor for the photo so I can see what I need to do.Texasz I thought of putting the front only on until I got the rear info I needed.I was told that they are made to work inpairs.So even if it fit your car it may cause poor results with the front unit.I'm sure someone will put more lite on this.

If you like what you have find the same one with less miles.Then you have a parts car when the road beats up your new one.

After YEARS of fumes I loosened the catch on the car that the latch catches.I pressed down on the rear hatch and opened the hatch.I then moved the catch down just a fraction as pushing down seated it to the top of the latch.That made sure I was securing at the bottom of the latch.I now only close the hatch with a window or door open as the pressure seal is so good.NO MORE FUMES!! As the new gasket seats and the natural movement of the car this will be required again at a future date.

I just happened to recall I had a friend with a maxima that had that problem.His was intermit bad electric fuel pump.Perhaps you could by-pass yours for a test. One other easy and cheap test is replace the capactor.Its rare but I have also seen those give intermit trouble before they fail .I once had a dist.cap with a hair line crack that gave me that EXACT trouble.

Yes,the wrap will kill a header,done that.Wrapping the fuel line is good----until it gets hot in the wrap then it holds the heat IN!!My experience with Vapor lock alway occured after sitting for a while on a hot day.If I could get a nonstop run down a highway for a short while it would clear up.I NEVER had the problem while the car was moving over25 or 30mph.I could run interstate all day with the outside temp at full summer,no trouble.If I got stuck in traffic the car would act sick but,it didnot shut off.Idont think thats your trouble

With vapor lock the car will idle.It just runs like two spark plugs have no plug wire attached when you try to move.It surges.Are these you symtoms?

I had a feeling that August 5, 2003 was going to be the last time Lance tried the kit.I don't remember my date but,I do remember the day.You're better off!!

Al,I know your pain.There will be days when two steps forward,one back will be a GREAT day!! It's a love /hate kinda thing when you play with old toys.Walk away sometimes.Lotsa steps forward is this website.From one that has been through it without this tool,you don't really know how far ahead you are!!:classic:

Sounds like you found the trouble.Just wanted to give you another check.Is the pump really pumping?I rebuilt a head once and forgot to put the cam that runs the mech.pump back on!:stupid:

I'm doing this from memory and its been some time,here goes.There is somewhat square unit behind that air reg. When you remove the cover there is a gear.Mark the location with white paint. loosen the holding screw while holding pressure on the gear.This is the can't remember part.You either move it two teeth clockwise or counter clockwise.I did that for years on a 280 I had to stop that cold nature.You must return it to your paint mark before inspection or you will fail emissions.

There's you're answer lance.Even if you have to swap the lines,If you don't do it now you will do it later.I see it as a cheap insurance policy.$25.00 will stop you from looking for more expensive and less available front end parts.

Yes ,rit will work.Mix it in a cup and use a small brush to work it in.I have known people that used that vinyl spray.It has a flex agent in it that holds very well on that nylon strap.