Hrududu

Even if the sound would go away when the clutch is engaged? I don't know if i mentioned that before.

5 feet sounds right. I bet its the pinion. See, this problem actually started back in October not 2 days after racing at the drag strip. It stated as a slight vibration sound and occasional knock. it got a little rougher over time and would make shifting a little rough if it was a quick shift. I've taken it pretty easy, but then yesterday I took a turn and shifted into gear and it was like someone was slamming a ball bat into the bottom of the car. Super loud like something was really busted. I got it home okay though. It seems to do it every 5 feet or so.

Okay, i went out and checked the driveshaft and half shafts and it all felt solid. Also checked the mounting bolts for the diff and they were tight. I did open the drain plug a little on the diff to check the fluid and it was very dark, very smelly, and appeared to have little sparkly bits in it. The shop is telling me 600-900 so that is out of the question. I'm gonna try for a used one. Can someone tell me what year Z's i can get a diff out of with the same gear ratio? Z's are not easy to come across here in salvage yards, so i need as many options as possible with the 3.54 ratio that will bolt right up. Thanks again.

Hmm, I'll double check those. When i was under there they all seemed pretty tight, but i may have missed something. Thanks.

Hey guys, you may remember a while back i posted about some clunking that seemed to be coming from my rear end. I looked at it and it seemd to be coming from inside the diff. Well, for numerous reasons this problem went unattended until now. Yesterday while out for a short drive, i shifed into 4th gear and the most god-forsaken banging started coming from the rear end. It was so loud and seemed to send jolts thru the car. I got it home and parked it. Im assuming whatever was broken in the diff before finally bit the dust totally. Now i want to be absolutely sure its the diff and not something else before I go off and get another one. I will say that the transmission still shifts just fine and it all feels good, so i think the tranny is Ok. Under the car everything looks visibly good. Nothing looks broken or feels broken. Does this sound like a broken diff to you? I leave for college in 2 days and would like to get this car back on the road so I can take it with me insted of my Buick. Thanks. I can do my best to answer any questions you have.

2 pipes on a tip does sound a little different. I went from one large pipe to a dual tip and it made the exhaust sound a little louder and maybe a little higher pitched. I was going for look rather than sound though, and it wasn't enough differnece to make it noticeable.

I got 1671

Well shoot, I didn't realize they were worth so much. I've been using my original key all this time. Looks like I'll make another copy and use it insted and save the original.

Honestly, I have never liked this place. The only reason I took it there was because my dad said he would help cover the cost of this repair, and he has been going there for a long time so they treat him pretty well. I was gonna try and attempt it myself, but I leave for college in 3 weeks and he wanted to make sure it got done on time. For some reason this place almost always takes 2 tries to do anything right. Its been that way before with this car and my Buick. I would like to go back and ask about how that nut got in there though. Thanks for all your help guys, the suggestions above is what led me to finding that nut. I seriously wish some of you lived closer to me so I could get some advice and help from people who really know their Z's.

Hey guys, i fixed the problem. As it turns out, a nut had fallen on the throttle linkage down near the throttlebody and was not allowing it to go all the way down. No idea how it got there, but i noticed it looked like it wasn't going down all the way and there it was. Took a screwdriver and knocked it off. Now there arn't any problems. I took the pics below to show you where it was. These are on my spare motor so it is easier to see.

Okay, so i took my 77 280Z into the shop to get the ball joints replaced as well as my front struts. While it was there, a fuel hose connecting to my fuel filter apparently had a bit of a leak, so they tightened down the clap. I got the car back today and now it will not idle any slower than 2300rpm. I tried adjusting the idle screw as well as looked around for anything obvious. Aside from tightening that clamp, they didn't do anything else under the hood. Before I took it in I had no problems like this. I was idling at 800rpms nothing was wrong. I took it back and had them look at it and they cannot figure out whats wrong. Anyone here have any suggestions as to what I can look for or do? I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.

I used some in my car when I thought my speakers were rattling the panels. I have 2 4" audiobahns in there and was getting a buzz so i got some of that Dynamat and put it around the speakers and behind them. Unfortunately, the speakers themselves were the cause of the buzz, and not the panels. It did reduce some vibration sounds, but not all of em since most of it was the speakers.

My 280Z is my daily driver, but I'll still drive my Buick Century every now and again or when the Z is being worked on, like right now.

The biggest problem i have with mine is the little rubber links on the fuel rails cracking. Every summer I have to replace a few. So far this year I've had 2. Last year it was about 4 and the fuel pressure regulator. It deveolped a leak too. It sucks cuz it drips right on the exhaust manifold. I was gonna take the fuel rails off my 79 engine and switch em out since it doesn't have all the rubber links. Its solid. Sorry about your luck. Hope you can get yours fixed up soon.

Mine is just a 2.25" pipe all the way back to a flowmaster 40 muffler on the back. Nothing special, but it sounds really good and seems to work just fine. Cost me less than $200 for all parts and labor last summer.

Wow, that looks like one heck of a Z! Definately one took take good care of. I got a similar report when I took mine to get the exhaust put on. He told me I had very little underside rust and the frame was very strong. Naturally i still have rust, but it felt so good to hear that.

looks like the heat shild on my 280Z

Every now and again a set will go up on ebay. I've been keeping an eye out myself cuz my drivers side one has 2 slats broken out.

holy freakin crap!

I have one behind the drivers seat. I decided it would be a good idea after the little rubber links on my fuel rails kept splitting last summer and dripping gas on my exhaust manifold. I plan on switching out the fuel rails with the ones off my 79 motor since it doesn't have the rubber links.

Buy it now price was $800 wasn't it?? I noticed it is $600 now.

Wow, i'd do it if it wern't so far away.