Bambikiller240

There are a few on that page that are interesting, though the exhaust systems look really stupid. I'm thinking tha the term "$hitbox" just about covers the description of most of them

No Ron, I won't be able to make it this year (again). Just started a new job and I'm still too broke to afford it. Maybe next year. (I said that last year Hope y'all have a good time, and take and post some pictures for those of us who can't be there. Cars, Members, and Girls. (and more Girls)

Maybe he meant it will be in "police impound yard". (more speeding tickets)

I agree. The car was in a junkyard for a reason. 1. Need to assess what you have bought yourself into, before spending more money. Visable rust is only the tip of the iceburg (you will find more), and rust repairs are expensive unless you can do all of the work yourself. In that case rust repair is time consuming 2. Buy a Repair Manual for the car (Haynes, or Chiltons, whatever) so you can learn how to work on cars (this will minimize your mistakes). 3. Start saving money for parts/tools now. BTW, the 280zx Turbo swap can be done but you'll need more than just the engine to make it happen. Engine management system (sensors, wiring, computer) and some skills to integrate it all into the existing Z car wiring/chassis.

???????????????????????? English translation please

Here's a direct link to download the video: http://x1.putfile.com/videos/d7-2119591185.wmv

For those of you who are interested in Bio-Diesel, Joe Jobe of www.Biodiesel.org will be a guest of Art Bell on "Coast to Coast AM" (durring the first hour of the show) on Saturday Evening April 16th, 2005. If you don't know what Radio station carries the show in your area, Check out http://www.coasttocoastam.com/info/wheretolisten.html

That is most likely caused by a rubber mount at the front of the Diff. It is quite common for the rubber to tear away from the metal of the mount and cause a "clunk" noise. Examine this area as it's a most likely defective part.

Same switch that turns on the dome (overhead) light when you open the door.

When you opened the drivers door, it let you know (by buzzing) that the key was in the lock. When the door closed (even if the key was still in the lock) the buzzer would turn off.

Never heard of one of those. (just googled and learned they are a small crow local to the S.E. US.) http://www.birds.cornell.edu/crows/FishCrow.htm The correct answer to the Q is..............a Swallow!

Hey, do you know what bird will keep the stork away?

No, no. I was referring to the two guys with "350 diseaZe" needing surgery. Even fully automatic weapons can shoot blanks!

It's not under powered for an L6 (I mean since it's used on 4 cyl trucks)? I wonder how much difference the weight between the versions and if it's worth worrying about for a street (non-competition) car. I know, I'm asking lots of questions tonight

Ferrari V12 (or Jag V12)

OK, so there are two (time for a vasectomy, or two; before this gets out of hand).

:paranoid: There's always one in a crowd. :paranoid:

Ten Charecters MSA SHOW

You mean the one Chris (26th-Z) posted? As I went to take pictures of my Ignition Locks I've discovered that mine are somewhat different than the one Chris shows. The wires on mine are on the opposite side of the assembly. On my parts, No, it couldn't be for a lamp, it's completely enclosed, except at the end where the wires protrude. Inside the enclosure, there is only the lugs that the wires are soldered to. All 3 of my Locks have the wires in a different location from the one shown by Chris, and only the New Replacement one has the hood. I have attached 1 pic (IMGP1059 Large) of a new OEM Replacement Lock that I bought from Courtesy about 1.5 yrs ago. The other two pics (IMGP1060 Large and IMGP 1061 Large) are original Ignition Locks from 3/71 and 11/71 mfg'd HLS30-U's and don't have the black plastic hood over the wires. I also have a (4 yrs relatively new) Replacement Lock installed in my car and it is identical to the one shown with the hood.

Of the 3 versions that will fit, which one is recommended? Looking for information on how to identify, or what year/model of car to look in, or to say that I have when placing an order. Not that I need one immediately, but it would be great information to have on the site and in my local files as well.

I agree, but you won't be able to leave feedback of any kind. Feedback can only be entered for "completed" auctions. (i.e. auctions that have been won, and then can only be left by the winning bidder) If the jerk had a Buy-It-Now that you had used, he simply would have stiffed you like what happened to Will. "Oops, I broke it, here's your money back." :mad:

I thought you had a 240Z?

That looks like the replacement Ignition Lock /SW assembly that I bought a year or so ago. The black part is just a cover for the two lugs that those wires are soldered to. (I had to remove this cover to reconnect one of the wires that was ripped out by a would-be thief. The switch must be internal to the lock itself. What other type of Ignition lock/sw is there (other than this one?)

I think that was explained earlier in the thread. Post #8 I have tried it multiple times and it's never worked for me, but I know several people who have had success with it. So it's worth a try, but it doesn't work for everyone. I'm so used to the hammer and chisel method that I don't even bother to try the other method anymore. Once you've used the chisel method a time or two, it's no longer a worry as you know the pitfalls and you simply avoid them.

Although others have had good luck with that method, I have not. As mentioned in other posts, I use a small chisel and a hammer, AND A LOT OF CARE. I gouge two grooves into the bushing, avoiding damaging the crankshaft and then use a small screwdriver to "pick" the pieces of bushing out of the hole in the crankshaft. It seldom takes more than 10-15 minutes to accomplish, but CARE is more important than SPEED when I do this. Good Luck, and take your time if you try this method