Bambikiller240

There is NO paint under the tar mat, just bare metal. You are seing a stain on the metal from the tar mat. It wipes off with Mineral Spirits or Lacquer Thinner.

Perhaps, but I would think that you'd want to make sure the bolt is strong enough that it's not going to get sheared in half at some time. You might want to inquire on a Roadster website since they have had to deal with these transmissions more than us Z guys.

I believe that it was "available" from the Datsun Competition catalog. I don't think any HLS30-U 240Z's were "delivered" to the USA with the "A" 5 speed from the factory.

See Post #90 in the thread link that follows http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16660&page=6&pp=15&highlight=percentage+auto

For the B type transmissions that I've worked on, the nylon bushings (the ones in the eBay auction) have tended to get chewed up after 5 - 7 years and they fall apart. At that point, the connection between the shifter and the mounting pin is terribly sloppy due to the missing bushings. Put in new bushngs and everything is nice and tight again. The "A" type tranmission that I used to have, the rubber shifter bushings would deteriorate and become soft causing the normal "monkey motion" shifter to become even more sloppy.

I believe so. The info that I have indicates that what we call the Series II HLS30-U began at (or around) VIN HLS30-21001 I used to own HLS30-23313 and it was a "Series II"

Yep, your car would have had an "A" trans originally. Production of the (Series-III) 1972 Model Year Start According To Nissan New Features For The 72 Model Year Included: Flip Forward Seats, New Hub Caps, Center Console Redesigned, Gas Tank Door Latch Eliminated, 5 Inch Wide Wheels Made Standard, New 4sp. Trans. Design, Rear End Moved Rearward 35mm (about 1.5 inches), Auto Seat Belt Retractors, Seat Belt Warning Buzzer & Seat Belt Warning Light

Steve: The auction is for only 2 of the 3 bushings. It is missing the one for the end of the shifter. BTW, these are for the "B" type trans. (which is sounds like someone has installecd in your 1970 vintage car). The "A" type trans had a shifter that used two big rubber bushings and the shifter mounted external to the transmission case. These "A" type transmissions were used from 1969 production until the beginning of 1972 model production (around 8/71 mfg date) on HLS30-U cars

In one of the Z's I owned in the 80's, I mounted the antenna switch on the passenger side of the console, pretty much right along side the radio (just slightly under the front of the dash). I had one of those protective covers over the toggle switch to eliminate any chance of a passenger accidently activating the switch.

OK thanks. one last question. is it just not plugged in, or does it have to be removed from the harness? I'm asking because I wouldn't want to alter my wiring harness in any way. Leaving it unplugged would be OK for me, but not removing it from the harness.

So then, the connector on the Z wiring harness plugs into the alt as is, or is eliminated?

Thanks Again, interesting info and good picture. It didn't seem logical (as indicated in the previous thread) that it took until 1972 for a 240Z to be used as a Pace Car in the USA.

I'm curious, Are there any modifications to the stock 240Z wiring required for this alternator? Since it's claimed to be a "plug and play" deal I wouldn't think so, but the "one wire" alts that I've heard of did require wiring mods.

Very interesting information & good pictures. Thanks. Do you, or does anyone know if this Pace Car/School car survives today?

The alt they are talking about has it's own voltage regulater (internally)

sounds like you have more than one problem with the car. Clutch and something preventing you engine from starting

I'm not familiar with this alt, but the other (Maxima, and ZX) Alt's also had an internal reg. and people still needed to jump two wires and put in a diode in the plug ( of the cars wiring) that would have formerly been used for the original v reg. I'm no electrical wiz, but I can't see why this wouldn't still be a requirement as it's the car's wiring that's not set up for the internal reg. Perhaps this is another good reason why I'm sticking with the external reg alt, though I will upgrade from a 45 to a 60 amp unit in due time.

Err, Well; I may have mis-spoke. I don't know if they had owners manuals for cars as early as yours. After I bought one for my 72 on eBay (couple years ago) I noticed that on the Courtesy website, they had reprints of owners manuals for less than I paid one eBay.

AFAIK, there is no .pdf of an Owners manul OR a Factory Service manual floating around. As one of the other guys said, your best bet is a Haynes, or Chilton manual. BTW, Last time I checked, Nissan was still selling reprints of the early Z Owners manuals. Price was a little high for what it is (not very dtailed). Check w/ Courtesy Nissan.

Do you need that many amps? Sounds like a lot for an electrical system that was marginal at 45-60 amps. If the alt you are asking about has it's own internal v reg, you will have to bypass the original one in the car. Couple of wires will need to be jumpered, and a diode will need to be installed. No that it matters at all but I wouldn't put an Alt with that high of amperage in my car. Other people might, but I wouldn't. Don't need it for one thing, haven't got any equipment in the car that demands that amount of current. Secondly, if I did have equipment in the car that would draw that amount of current, I'd be afraid that my wiring loom would FRY.

The size of EACH of the pistons in the 4 pot caliper is smaller than EACH of the pistons in the 2 pot caliper. While the 4 pot caliper (as a whole) may use a bit more (volume of) fluid than a 2 pot caliper, I don't believe that a larger M/C is required for safe operation. JMO,

Everyone has an opinion, mine is that a car in the condition you describe is worth about $3K - $4K. For the reasons given by sblake01.

....................without sacrificing the strengh of the chassis structure I would have added "or function of crumple zones", but Z's are one big crumple zone so I won't.

SOunds like a mystery to me. It will be interesting to see your picture of the VIN plate.

Not a stupid question On 240Z's there is a rubber or vinyl covered "U" shaped piece (it has steel "grippers" inside of it) that slips over the weatherseal to helps secure it to the chassis and it also acts as a sort of "finisher" piece. On the 280Z weatherseals, I'm told that the weatherseal and the welting are built as a one piece deal.