Bambikiller240

If your compression is that low, why are you worring about oil and such? It's time to tear that engine apart and rebuild it. Any compression below about 140 lbs/sq indicates worn piston rings. Compression is typically between 180 (factory spec) and 150.

I bought a small and cheap seal puller tool at my local parts store. Worked great.

Leave the carbon alone too. It's abrasive. It's probably not doing anything but raising the compression slightly in the cylinders. JMO

Later 240Z's had ball joints. steering knuckles & tie-rod ends that had different dimensions than the 1970 versions. As far as I know, the 1970 versions are no longer available. You may need to swap it all out for the later (more robust) versions.

I can't speak to a 5 speed, but if you were going from an "A" 4-speed to a "B" 4-speed in a 2/71 mfg'd S30, you'd have to enlarge the hole in the trans tunnel to make it work.

which year and model of car are you talking about? Actual ball joint, or tie-rod end?

Well, actually MikeW beat me by < 1 minute

Could it be due to the exhaust (tail) pipe being on that side of the car? I know it (the exhaust) can make a mess of the chassis paint, chrome (bumper), and tail light finisher panel on the left side of the car over time.

Mark: I'm not really trying to talk you into it, but if I was owning or running a business, I'd want to know when stuff like that happened. At a minimum, it provides an opportunity to educate employees on the proper care and feeding of the people who ultimately pay their salaries. CUSTOMERS

JMO, but if you have an L28 block, I wouldn't put the E31 head on it UNLESS you also go to the larger valves. (especially if you're going to use that cam, but even with a stock cam, I'd go for the larger valves)

All the more reason to talk to Sal, IMO

It's a miracle!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5578362523

Mark: Sorry to hear of that experience. It's your call of course, but I think I'd address the situation with Sal Perno, the manager of MSA. (it's been a while since I spoke with him, but I believe that he still works there, he has for many years) He has been the person that worked with me to ensure satisfaction. I'd be certain to mention the comments of the person who insinuated that you might be lying. There is no way that is appropriate, IMO.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4546856861&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW The VIN on this one cannot be a 1972 as advertised. It's a 70 based on the VIN pictured. ---------------------------------------------- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=4546884234&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Ah yes, The infamous "HLS" 76 260Z w/ (possibly) an L28E

Madam, there's no such thing as a tough child - if you parboil them first for seven hours, they always come out tender. Children should neither be seen nor heard from - ever again. (When asked whether he liked children) "Ah yes...boiled or fried." I like children. If they're properly cooked. -----W.C Fields

Paint bubbling is a warning sign. It means the panel is rusting from the inside (otherside) out. Before you state this car has minimal rust you should read up (use our search function "rust"; and at www.ZHome.com) about rust and what to look for when buying a Z. There are several specific places to look carefully for signs of rust. FWIW, the rust you see is typically only the tip of the iceberg. Most rust will be hidden from view and will only be discovered durring restoration, or when parts start falling apart. Learn all that you can before you see the car and take your time, look CAREFULLY and THOROUGHLY before even considering to make an offer.

Anyone know the difference between the 2 part numbers?

Actually, beginning with the Series-III 1972 Model Year Start According To Nissan the New Features For The 72 Model Year Included: Flip Forward Seats, New Hub Caps, Center Console Redesigned, Gas Tank Door Latch Eliminated, 5 Inch Wide Wheels Made Standard, New 4sp. Trans. Design, Rear End Moved Rearward 35mm (about 1.5 inches), Auto Seat Belt Retractors, Seat Belt Warning Buzzer & Seat Belt Warning Light (This production began around 9/71 or 10/71) Mark: FWIW, most Z's (HLS30-U) produced prior to 12/71 had vertical defroster grids. This inclues Series I, II, and the earliest Series III versions. My 11/71 Series III has vertical defrosters. But I agree, your car (if mfg'd in 2/71 would be a Series II) FWIW to anyone, I measured on my spare "A" and "B" transmissions. On the "A" trans, the shifter mounts EXTERNALLY 31 inches from the front edge of the bell housing. On the "B" trans, the shifter mounts INTERNALLY 29 inches from the front edge of the bell housing

Notation at the bottom of that page indicates it's for 240Z's mfg'd up to 8/71

Mark: When you get ZX axle nuts (I'm assuming that you will), would you please post the part number for us? ATM I don't need to do this job, but I will be trying to get the parts needed to rebuild the Rear Axles in the near future, just so that I have them when the need arises. Thanks in Advance, carl

R U S T ! ! ! ! The #1 Mortal Enemy of Z's

Hi Greg: I had asked the question and Carl Beck had replied in Post #90 of that thread. I believe that 1971 was the only year he was able to find figures relating to the manual vs auto trans percentages. My guess (and it's just a guess) would be that 72 and 73 would have possibly had slightly higher percentages of auto transmission cars. The reason that I make this guess is that 71 was the first year that the auto trans HLS30-U was available in the USA, and IMO it seems likely that more auto trans Z's could have been sold as production ramped up, and more of the public became aware of the availability. Just a WAG.

There is little demand for them. I bought a 78K mile engine / trans combo, and most of the suspension from a 72 Z about 4 years ago. Paid $250 EDIT, it was actually $275

What it looked like on my car was a very thin ( I could see the metal through this stuff) stain from the tar mat itself or whatever adhesive they used to stick the mat to the metal. It didn't look like paint to me and didn't act like paint, since I was able wipe it off very quickly and easily with Mineral Spirits. NOTE: My experience is with floor pans only, it's possible that there is something under the mat elsewhere in the car that I haven't seen.

Fram PH8A is a common filter size for older cars. AC Delco, WIX, Pennzoil, K/N, and many other companies make similar filters. I use Fram or WIX depending on my mood, and chage them with each oil change. Here is a link to a website discussing Oil Filters. I have no connection to the study and post it only for informational purposes. Images take a while to load. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/