lonetreesteve

I'm afraid it's going to take more than just one winter to complete this project(s)

Nice restoration and nice car, but I've got to be honest with you, why customize #248 or any 1969 production 240Z? Why not use a later 240Z for a project like this? IMHO, since the '69 production cars are so rare and are such an important part of Z history, why not keep it stock? Just my 2 cents

No, I can only wish it were my collection, Johnny'O!

The paint scheme reminds me of the '78 Silver Anniversary Corvette Pace Car.

Well, that someone paid $3,550.00 for a 240Z 'Clone' and a very poor attempt of one at that. This is outright fraud and I feel for the uninformed buyer. You see this happen with the old Pontiac LeMans and Tempest cars from time to time that are passed off as GTOs. Or the base Chevelles that are passed of as Chevelle SS's. Now granted, most of the owners of these cars will come out and say that it's a clone and it will still have the original LeMans ID tags, etc. But this guy did such a bad job, I'm surprised it went for $3,550.00.

Rust-Oleum #7793 'Satin Shell White' is very close to the original color.

I bought my latest project off of the Phoenix Craig's List and it worked out very well. I live in Colorado and spoke to the seller over the phone at length several times and he e-mailed me additional pictures of the car. In fact, he was nice enough to drive the car to the carrier's yard to save me some money! If you are careful, you can find some great deals out-of-state on Craig's list.

Seems very cheap for a Series I 240Z. I wonder if the car has been in AZ all its life - I kind of doubt it since it looks like there are rust bubbles in the rear quarter panels above the wheel wells. I would like to see pics of the floor pans and some clear close ups of the other potential rust areas.

I just recently sold a spare engine -it was #060039, a little far off from the one you are looking for. It was a very unusual engine with the E31 raised lettering on the block, not the usual P31 for an engine number this high, it had an E31 head and the 'Nissan 2400 OHC' valve cover (which I kept and replaced it with a later one). In fact, this spare engine was the subject of my very first thread back in May of 2004 called '1970 Engine?' Good luck with your search.

The car just sold for $16,100.00.

I bought a door jamb plate from Banzai Motors 2 or 3 years ago for one of my projects and he required that I send a copy of the title as well. However, he does not stamp the plates, so I had to have someone else do it.

Yes, maybe so, but it would be very difficult to fool a trained eye. The stamps used on the ID & data plates you can buy at your local hardware store. But the stamps the workers at the Nissan assembly plant in Japan used back in the day are very unique (see pic below of one of my former Zs) and it would be extremely difficult to duplicate. Although, I have heard of people cutting out the entire firewall of their wrecked or rusted-out classic car and installing it in a similar car before.

Both blank door jamb plates and engine compartment data plates have been available for a number of years now. All you have to do to ensure that you have the real thing, is to look for the VIN stamped on the upper part of the firewall, driver's side.

Maybe it's for a hidden fire extinguishing system, you never know when those awful flattops will catch fire.

Take a look at this solid 240z that features the very rare blue exterior with blue interior, an uncracked dash and a very clean engine compartment (although, the hub caps are incorrect for a '71): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1971-Datsun-240Z-rare-66k-original-miles-collector_W0QQitemZ120334804168QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item120334804168&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1308

I contacted the seller the other day as well and he responded very quickly. I let him know that I wasn't interested in the dash, but if he has other parts that he wanted to sell and he said that he did. He has a lot of parts including a voltage regulator, turn signal switch and combination switch to name a few.

Thanks for all the info, guys!

That's a good point, Ron. However, after 3 radios I was convinced that it must be the antenna, so #3 is in the dash and I don't want to take it out until that is the only possible solution. I figure what are the chances of having 3 radios that all need the trimmer screw adjusted? Is there anything else that it could be?

I looked through the archives, but couldn't find the problem I'm experiencing. I've tried 3 different stock 240Z AM/FM radios (I know, I'm a pack rat) and the FM is very strong, but the AM is extremely weak, in fact only the strongest AM signal in Denver (the mighty 850 KOA) is barely there. So obliviously, it must be the antenna, but I only have one working stock antenna. the good thing is that I do have some spare stock antenna parts. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

To tell you the truth, I don't know if the brake lights ever worked on this car. I just got it on the road a couple months ago after the refresh and haven't driven it that much. My daughter told me when driving behind me the other day that the brake lights don't work. Also, EScanlon mentioned the wipers, which I completely forgot about - they don't work either! EScanlon might be on to something here. I've got to run to work now, but I'll check back in tonight. Thanks again guys.

I tried switching out the turn signal switch as Dave had recommended, but it didn't make a difference. After that, when I turned the lights on the left rear brake light came on also. I tried a number of the other suggestions you guys made, but nothing seemed to do the trick. I wonder if I just need to buy some new tail light harnesses somewhere. I really all of the help you guys gave me. By the way, I took a picture of 2 wires under the steering column, 1 red wire and 1 ground wire. I assume these are for fog lights or are they for something else?

Well guys, after I got back from the movies and dinner with my wife and 2 of my kids, I made some progress thanks to your good advise. I changed out both wiring harnesses, cleaned all the sockets and checked all the bulbs again (all the bulbs are new as they were before). The good news is that the brakes don't come on with the lights when I turn the lights on, but there are still no brake lights with or without the lights on. I did trade out the light switch earlier, but the brakes didn't work before I traded it out. I switched the green/yellow wires around on the brake switch, but no luck. I will try putting the original brake switch back in tomorrow (it's 10:20 pm here in Colorado) Thanks, guys I think we are getting closer.

I checked out the wires in the steering column and in the rear again and everything looked correct. I have attached pics of the steering column, the switch on the upper part of the driver's kick panel and the rear tail lights. Do you see anything that might be connected incorrectly?

Jimmy, I checked the brake light bulbs and they are both 1157s. Hazards and turn signals all work fine. I'm pretty sure that all the wires are connected correctly under the steering column. I'll check again. I'll also check the grounds in the rear as Arne suggested. Thanks guys

My brakes lights on my '72 240z/4-speed don't work properly. For some strange reason when I turn on the lights, both the brake lights and the tail lights come on. I've read through the archived threads and have checked out all of the following so far: All of the connections on the rear tail light are correct. All of the fuses are good and are the correct ones in the appropriates places. All of the bulbs are correct and they all work. I changed out the brake switch on the pedal apparatus. I checked out all of the connections. I changed out the headlight switch. Certainly someone has run into this problem before. Thanks!