kmack

I had a motorcycle that I restored where someone had hammered out the main jets and screwed up the aluminum housing the jets screwed into. They cracked it in 2 places. A little JB weld and a small metal wire to sinch things back together and "presto", good as new. I road the that bike for 4 more years and never had any ill-effect from being immersed in gas. I also have a small 50cc scooter that has JB weld holding the gas tank sending unit together. After 6 years, still works like a charm!

The difference between the two (visually) is in how the "dome" is attached. By either 4 screws (early) or 3 screws (later models). According to Z Therpy's SU video, the 4 screws are easier to align the piston. Apparently, the 3 screws alow a bit of movement in the positioning of the dome on top. There are a few other minor differences between the two like the mixture nut is different and little things like that, but the overall operation is the same.

I didn't have full rotation with my stands, but this shows how far I could go....

Suntadz, Look on my website... I have one that I built shown there. Plans are available. http://www.geocities.com/kenshobnob You can use 2 engine stands but there will be problems. The first being the height of the stands themselves. From the top of the legs to the center line of the rotation point needs to be about 34" for the sides of the body to clear the stands. Otherwise, the car won't even get on it's side. Also, the width of the engine stands are very stable with the car on them. They will want to rock from side to side. The width needs to be at least 3' at a minimum. As for mounting the car, on the rear you can mount direct to the bumber mounts. Just make sure the brackets behind the rear valance panel are in good shape. (I had to replace mine before putting my car on the stands.) As for the front, the only good way to mount is to make a cradle for the front radiator support to sit into. There are threaded bolt holes in the bottom that you need to bolt to. If you have any other questions, just give me a shout. BTW, my stands/mounts will be for sale soon when I get them back from a friend.

my pun was a little vague wasn't it? Actually her Dad is an ex-Sheriff's Deputy that used to use his 78 280Z as a patrol car once in awhile. He likes to brag about how he beat a Dodge cruiser to a scene once from being 4 miles farther away! now if I can just get her to let me race....

Once I get my current project finished, then I plan on starting a convertible project next. This would be the car I build for my wife. She loves convertible and really misses her Fiat X1/9. If I build the Z, then I can convert her......

I would recommend an electric pump if made some or all of the following: L28 block and head with larger valves Race cam fuel injection turbo weber carbs. If you just swapped in an L28 block, let's say, you could probably get away with the mechanical pump only if you're running the SU's. But since that engine already came with an electric pump (because of the fuel injection) it would really be a good idea to install one. No sense in running the risk of running out of fuel and causing a lean condition which would hurt the motor. Especially while you're racing. If you're only running the stock L26, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

2manyZ's, Scott Bruning's old video used to have a segment on making a convertible. He sold plans that used a Triumph retractable top. TR7 I believe. If I remember correctly, his plans also included the use of the hatch (cut down of course) as a trunk lid. There used to be a guy here in San Antonio that had 2-'77 model 280z's that were convertible. He said he had bought one for him and one for his wife from an outfit in Washington state that was running a production of them back in the late 70's/early 80's. The company supposedly went under. He eventually sold one (kids) and still had the other. His had a cloth top and a hard top (don't know from where) and a working trunk lid w/ luggage rack. Only problem he encountered with the car was with the insurance company. He had been hit by someone in the front and the insurance was going to total the car. "It's only a 77 model 280," they said. He had to give them paperwork on how rare such a car is before they would settle. Food for thought....

Zlishous, If by "stock" you mean the stock '74 carbs, then you may want to put an electric pump back in your car. The late '73 and '74 carbs were the whole reason for the electric fuel pump (along w/ the mechanical) in the first place. If you're going to be running SU's then you won't need to worry about it too much unless your carbs and/or engine have been modified and will require a greater demand of fuel than the mechanical pump will provide.

Are you sure you have an electric fuel pump? 71's did not come w/ an electric pump stock, so if you pulled the gas line from up stream of the mechanical pump then you won't see any gas come out. Normally gas does not evaporate quickly, at least not in large amounts. 3 gallons of gas will take a few weeks to completely disappear. If you just want to make sure the engine will fire, run a fuel line from a gas can to the mechanical pump and try to start the engine from that. As for the hole in your tank, I wouldn't be surprised if the long, 1/2" diameter vent line hose on the left side of the tank is cracked or broken. That would be the first thing I'd look at when seeing a fuel leak from under the tank. They are relatively easy to replace and there has been a rather extensive discussion on this site about it. If you do have to replace the vent lines, then now would be a good time to clean up your tank a little and blow out the fuel lines. BTW, are you planning on making it down to San Antonio for the National Z Convention in June?

Gonna be bar-b-queing any time soon?

It doesn't say in the ad that it is a black pearl car or not. Just implies that that the black paint is rare. I love how they say it has 20+ "original" miles, then put their disclaimer that they can't verify it! Starting to sound familiar? I doubt this is a Black Pearl Edition car, and if so, $6700 sounds like a lot for a 280! I'd look under the carpet, around the interior, and in the engine bay for signs of another color before I bought this car. Just my $.02....

Mike, Was looking through my service manual the other day and saw one of these side mounts. The pictures in my manual show it being mounted on the passenger (right) side of the engine, using the 3 holes where the alternator mounts up and the right side engine mount. Looked like a pretty clean set-up to me. Maybe one of these days I'll play around with my welder and see what I can come up with.....

Somebody refresh my memory... Weren't the Series I cars the only ones with the plastic storage covers, not the "built in frame" storage boxes found in the later years? I know mine has the plastic covers behind the seats. And I had a '73 that had the storage bins located on the rear deck. I'm under the impression that this was a Series I only feature. Am I correct? If so, Randy, what does your car have?

2ManyZ's, My VIN number is in the 18000's. After initially talking with Carl when I first got the car, it was the last know registered Series I on ZHome.com. Since then, I believe there are one or two more listed that were made in January 1971. This is part of the reason I have spent so much time getting this car back on the road. It won't be a concours resto., but it will look nice.

My information is based on info I received from zhome.com. I believe Carl was the one who enlightened me as to the cross over point. There were some who were surprised that the Series I cars were even built in Jan. '71! As for your case? It is strange to one quarter from one car and another form a different series. I would really go through to check and see if either the vent hole is filled up (have seen it a lot on cars trying to look older) or for signs the panel could have been replaced at some point. How certain on the history of the car are you? Sure would like to know if you do have a "cross-over" car! Check in with Carl Beck and see if he can help also.

SHOTIME, Mike is right. If there is rust in the floor pan, then you will need to check in other areas, also. Particularly under the battery tray, front frame rails, both floor pans and firewall, and the lower, rear rocker panels, and the hatch ledge. These are the most common areas that are prone to rust. Since you have access to the car without actually having to buy it, you're in a better position than most to poke and prod the car before you buy it. As for the clutch, top the fluid off and bleed the system. If it still doesn't disengage, then the clutch plate may have surface-rusted itself to the flywheel. It happened on my car after I bought it. Since the car has sat for at least 5 years, you'll also be looking at possibly replacing all the door and hatch seals. A complete seal set will cost about $200. A set of floor pans will run between $175 -300 depending on which ones you get. Also check all the brake lines. Being that you are the one fixing up the car for the dealership, you may want to entertain the idea of letting the shop pay for eveyrthing to fix the car first (or at least get it back to good driving order) and then buy it from the dealership. If you find out that there is no rust for sure, then a clean car with minor mechanical and cosmetic blemishes is definitely worth $2500. Keep us posted on what happens and welcome to the world of Z's. :tapemouth ps- I'm ashamed at some of the comments that have been made in this particular thread based soley on one person's choice of vehicles. Anyone who has a desire or love for Z cars should be welcomed with open arms into our realm. Not chastized because they "drive a Ford". Does this mean I'll be "put down" because I drive a Ford? Or a Chevy? Hell, I've owned a Jeep, Fiat, Volvo, Porsche, Volkwagon, Chrysler, Mazda, and too many motorcycles to list. And I've loved driving them all. This doesn't make me a bad person, and it shouldn't. Just had to get that off my chest.

So after 5-1/2 years I finally get my engine started. Once the battery held a charge and it cranked over enough to suck fuel, it started right up. A little loud since the exhaust is not complete. Anyway, after running the engine for about a minute, I noticed a puddle of fluid on the floor underneath the car. I feared the worst thinking it was gas. Turns out it was coolant. Coming from the bellhousing of the transmission. Now in looking at my spare engine, the only thing I can see where water could come out of is a freeze plug on the back side of the block. Everything looked ok when I put all back together (although I did not change any freeze plugs). Is there somewhere else the water could be coming from that I can't see? There is no evidence of water in the oil pan so I'm ruling out bad head gasket. And there are no other signs of water anywhere on the engine. What is involved in replacing a freeze plug? TIA...

Now I have already voted (905 red, my car's color) but I have to put in my vote for my second choice of Z color. My Dad had a '72 when I was a kid. It was rebuilt from 2 wrecks (one hit in the front, the other in the back). He painted it black (base coat) with really fine gold dust in the clear. The car would change from the deepest green you've ever seen to a blackish-brown to solid black depending on the sun. Georgous looking car. Especially with all the chrome accents from the windows, doors, bumpers and wheels. just my $.02...

$470 for a "new" dash is not a bad deal. Just Dashes (www.just dashes.com) quoted me about $750. How much is freight going to be to send it to Australia and back, though? What's the bottom line when all's said and done and the dash is in your car?

I love the new Blue Chrome option for the site, Mike. Way cool! Really jazzes things up a little.

You're right, Mike. There are four (4) mounting hole just under the front carb. If my memory serves me, this is where the smog pump and/or A/C compressor bracket bolts on. (I haven't had the smog junk on my car since '93!) It looks like you could make a plate to use all four holes and then also use the engine mount holes, too. Although the engine would be prone to leaning to one side once the rotating pin was removed from the stand mount. Like I said, any good with a welder?

A side mount engine stand? Hmm... Where did it mount to? I can see using one of the engine mounts (but actually bolting to the block) but where else? Transmission housing bolt, maybe? But that would still limit your access to the flywheel wouldn't it? Any good with a welder?

Temporarily, yes. I know it's kind of the cheap way out right now, but that is all I can afford. All I'm looking for is links to information where some have soldered up the fuse block to help overcome the melting problem. I've seen it before, I just can't find it. Once I find it, then I'll make an informed decision about whether I can trust that sort of fix or I need to buy new.

I have the same problem as Dale. Same fuse block also. I've seen somewhere on the net where some body describes a way to "rebuild" the fuse box. Something to do with making new solder connections. Anybody know where this is at? A link?