mriz

Thought about it for a couple of days . I guess I may as well order the bushing kit and go for it all at once .(Nice job KenZ) I take it off the road in October anyway. Thanks for input.

I'm sure this is how most of us get into our projects. I had a brake light short which resulted in removal of the dash sooo while I'm at it replace heater/vacuum hoses and dash bulbs. Clean harness up and fix po's bomb squad wiring job. Remove seats to get to wires ended up re-uphoulstering (ugly wool type covers)because they were out. Also dye faded carpet at the same time ,why not. Well the consoles out so why not do shifter bushings and grease driveshaft ,replace shifter boot. Turned out the reason the fuse kept blowing was a corroded bulb connection . Glad it's done but it's ironic how many detours get taken along the way when you look back at the origional objective.

I am going to replace the strut cartridges and was wondering what other parts should be replaced such as the strut bearings before I start. The msa book left me at a loss and courtesy dosen't show anything. Also is it easier to go for the bushing kit at the same time to keep from doing things twice like usual?

Use search function and tech setcion.As far as rack bushings Bambikiller aka Carl 's method was to losen motor mounts and slightly jack up motor which worked for me. Driver side more difficult than passenger but a diy anyway.

I kind of figured it might be a Z specific part. This started out chasing a brake light short Now dash is out, seats are out , carpets out. Managed to fix a whole bunch of stuff from p.o. recovering seats as long as they are out. I guess I got caught up in the while I'm at it moment.

Can I use hose from autoparts store or do I have to use oem for the three heater core hoses under dash? What are the ID/OD of them. Couldn't find in search.

Once you cross the Westchester County line(read land of rich and famous) the price drops to 7k. And how can you aspire to sell to " collectors "with a four barrell instead of stock system??? Blah...Blah also

Here are the pictures.

Here are the pictures.

Whatever the shipping comes to and whatever you think it's worth. To remove it there are about 4 bolts on the firewall and a few under the dash. Only took about 15 min to remove. I can post a pic of it tomorrow.As far as flywheel I have to roll it over to get to the tranny and motor . Not close to doing that yet. Remember it's a 1977, not sure if any difference to 1978. Btw where the heck is Turlock?

That's why camaro's were invented.

I took the clutch/brake pedal assembly off the 1977 5 speed parts car today . Surface rust(parts car) sand and paint. Yours if you want it.

I could be wrong but I thouht I saw an article that it's about $300-$400 cheaper to build a pushrod engine for the big three. I prefer ohc myselfe.

I'm far from an expert but I just finished the front of the Z32 with some coaching of a body shop owner/ neighbor. You don't need to sand to metal if the paint has good adhesion.If you decide to strip it clean you can use aircraft stripper. Do the best prep work you can or it will show up. If you can feel any imperfections with your hand you will see it. Make sure you degrease/clean before sanding/scuffing or new paint will lift. If you prime it is best to use the same paint system as the painter I am told. I'm sure others will have more to add. Good luck

Well it's painted . He did the first coat then talked me through the second and helped me adjust my technique as I went. There are so many variables to a paint job that I never would have known . Because he took the time inbetween coats to explain step by step technique and how to avoid pitfalls(and bailouts) it will make the repaint on the 77 go alot better. He did caution that not all colors or brands shoot the same but just getting the basics helps. I don't mean to gloat but after re-sanding and painting x2 I was getting a bit discouraged to say the least and to now know that it is possible to do it the correct way it is quite a relief. Hats off to you body shop guys!

Long story short my neighbor up the street stopped by when I was sanding the front end of the Z32. Seems he has a body shop in town which I didn't know.The other day he stopped by to give some pointers( I was having trouble) and offered to show me how to paint the correct way as opposed to what I was doing :stupid: so when I repaint the 77 I'll know how this time. So tomorrow after work he wants me to bring it to the shop and paint it in his booth :love:The prep work is all done. My ? is what would it cost to have this done ? And what would be a reasonable amount to give him for his trouble ?

Now I'll have to watch it with my daughter next week if possible. I don't remember the hurst shifter either, I thought it was an automatic? And what happened to the one they crashed at the end ? What could have been the reason for a V8 conversion anyway?

It pretty much depends on how far you want to take it in terms of restoration. 79's are fairly cheap . You should tally up a parts list of what you want to fix and price it out . It will excede the value of the car most likely. Also check out the front of the hood on the underside , this area was prone to rust on the zx. Have someone else go with you a second time to catch things you may have missed. Check out that panel rust one more time. I think the rear behind the bumper of my 79 had a spot welded flange type seam/joint. Don't overlook it.

It figures, my stepdaughter drives a sentra ! I could only have dreamed that she would buy a Z. I'm sure you two will will have a great time working on the car. Gook luck with your new car.

Has anyone ever heard of running reducer through the gun after final clearcoat then opening up the fan width and spraying a thin coat over the job . I came across this on another forum . They say it levels out any peel and gives it an unbelivable shine.

Welcome, I had a couple of zx's years ago and ever since I was hooked. More recently a 77Z and a Z32. Same as Will I use the Z32(my daughters favorite) for comfort, and my favorite the 77 for fun.

Thanks I'll git a try.

The Z32 runs R-134 . I'm just at a loss with the 2 extremes of $168 vs $14 to fix the problem.

The shop wants about $168.00 to check and recharge my Z32 ( 280 is cool as ever) system which cools to about 75 degrees. Sounds like alot to me, in autozone I saw those cans for $14.00 which you can recharge yourself but sounds too easy of a fix or too good to be true. Add ac to the list of things "I know nothing about".