Seppi72

And, she looks every inch to be a beauty. Enjoy the ride!!

My thinking, and I'm sure it was what the OE engineers thought, is that if the car was driven in rain or, heaven help us, snow, the shields would do exactly what you two fellows said. But, in a now-fair-weather-only car, I'll leave them off and see how it goes. Just in case, I did media blast and gave them a nice coating of black POR-15 so they'll be ready-to-go if I ever need them.

They're called baffle plates in the S30 microfiche files. I'm just wondering what benefit they offer on a restomod car with improved calipers and vented discs?

I also have a Tilton Engineering 50-026 lightweight flywheel that I determined weighs 10.4 pounds with the friction plate bolted to the aluminum body. I contacted Tilton Engineering about it back in 2021 and the response was: "Sorry to tell you that that flywheel has not been in production from Tilton in many years. We do not have any replacement parts for it. I would say that you would have to check online sources for replacement parts. If you are not able to locate any you may have to replace it with something from another manufacturer." There are, of course, folks selling replacement friction plates but because of the unique bolt pattern, my machinist would have to create a drill pattern to fit any new plate and this would likely be every bit as expensive as getting a new flywheel. Because of this, I consider my Tilton to be a lovely boat anchor. Sigh.

I've emailed Centerforce to see if they can provide a new insert but I'm not hopeful. Looks like the original was riveted in place so I'd want one that could be bolted in. Probably a pipe dream. As Plan B, I've ordered a new Fidanza flywheel as they''re just "up the road" from me here in Ohio (~150 miles). A little less expensive than getting one through MSA or Zcar Depot and I get free shipping, which lately has become a big deal.

Thanks. I have no experience searching with an image so I'm happy you do. I had an inkling that Centerforce might be involved but its website doesn't trumpet Midway Industries until you open the About Us portion of its website and then it's all there. It's a lovely 12.5 pound flywheel but I think it might need a new insert in order to be usable once again. I'll contact Centerforce and see if that's possible - at least for a price that would be less than just buying a new flywheel.

It's on a lightweight aluminum flywheel that came with a parts car or engine that I got many moons ago. Searching online, I was able to find it as the main design on 25-year service pins that someone is selling on eBay, but can't find anything on the company itself.

Go, baby, live life on the EDGE !!!

Well, that bracket looks to be at least painted and I doubt that Nissan would have bothered to do so if it were located inside the dashboard and out of sight. So, I'm guessing that it is either some non-OEM part or it was low enough in the dash assembly to have been exposed to an occupant's view. As @dutchzcarguy says, you'll know if something rattles.

Yeah, I studied up on NPT cf. BSP after I posted this thread and learned about the angle and shape differences (and, to my horror, about BSPP). I plan to buy a 1/2"-14 NPT tap and re-cut the hole to (1) clear out the remaining mineral deposit and (2) for a better fit. But first I'll trial that process on some piece of scrap that I might be able to get from a local plumber.

You may very well be correct, Yarb, as the plug that was in the engine initially fits into a 1/2"-14 NPT die that I happen to have hanging around. Of course, I don't have a good idea of how BSP differs from NPT so it might be the former. I think I learned some time ago that whenever Nissan didn't use metric it went with BSP, but that might be a false recollection.

It's associated with the block cooling system but is plugged closed on all (most?) L6 engines. Mine has some mineral build up on the innermost threads and I want to chase it out. A plug I have that fits the hole is, I think, 1/2" BSP but I could sure use confirmation on that.

I have, for my part anyway, resolved this issue. I ended up tapping the block hole for 3/4"-14 NPT and used an NPT-to-AN fitting (-10 AN) from Evil Energy so I can run a hose from the block to a vented catch can. I've also done something similar for the valve cover breather tube which I also intend to run to the same catch can. I plan to write up a technical article on this.

I'm happy (?) that this was motivating enough to get you up and moving😁

So, Patcon, in this crank configuration my cam lobes aren't exactly doing upright "bunny ears" for me but I can see daylight between both lobes and the valve lash pads so I'm confident that the valves are as closed as they can be,

Well, regardless of how I eventually do the plumbing from the block and the valve cover, I would love to vent both into a cold air box feeding my Webers so the blow-by vapors would be distributed equitably. On searching, the only source I seem to find is EFI Hardware in Australia. They offer a fiberglass airbox that would seem to handle triple carbs but the price is about $450. So adding shipping and tariffs to that probably puts it over well $600. Does anyone have a better source?

Here's an interesting catch can take on a 3.4 L stroker. From a guy billing himself as "Orginal Datsun parts for sale" on Facebook. Allegedly in Phoenix, AZ. Anyone know of him?

An interesting option, Yarb. But now I have to learn aluminum welding?

Roger, wilco.

I have, indeed, verified with my inspection camera that piston #1 is at the top of its travel when the damper and pointer are in this configuration so I'm confident in how things are currently set up. Or perhaps the stars have just aligned for me. Of course, the truth will out when I fire up the engine.

OK, Yarb, that makes sense. I'd forgotten that the front main seal leaves a lot of space around the crankshaft opening. So then, three questions. How much oomph does it take to remove that breather tube? Is there a best procedure for removing it, like hitting it with a mallet? What size freeze plug do I need to get?

With your outlet sealed off, how does internal block pressure get relieved? Admittedly, at an engine temperature of 212 F it's only about 4-5 psig overpressure, but your pistons will have to work against that on downstrokes.

Thanks. I never knew of the screwdriver alignment test. I was apparently off by one tooth on the dizzy drive shaft / crankshaft spiral gear engagement. Now rectified.

So, my engine has this crankcase breather tube and while it's capped off, it certainly looks as though it had an outlet that got broken off; possibly when the engine was shipped to me some years ago. I know I need to route this outlet to somewhere on my Canon intake manifold (triple Webers) but one question is how to do that? I'm thinking I'll just cut the tube inboard of that hole and attach a brass nipple for the hose leading to the intake manifold. Sound reasonable? Also, I presume I still need to put a PCV valve somewhere between the outlet tube and the intake manifold. Right?